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Got in my car after work and suddenly it started working!?! My guess is this, and it's a long shot but; the other day it was real nice out, left the windows cracked about 2 inches and that night it rained. No real water got inside but the next day when I noticed the cd player stopped working it was really humid in the car. CD player didnt' work for the whole day and this morning when I went to work. Well, today, window rolled up in the parking lot it was nice out again and got pretty hot inside the car when I left to go home. Fired up the Soob and a cd magically ejected . CD player now acts like normal. So I'm thinking it got a little humid inside, buggered up the electronics just a tad, which dried out during the next few days and whallah! BTW this is the stock in dash cd changer unit.

So this morning I get in my car and the disc changer doesn't work! Nothing lights up, the indicator lights that tell you which slot has a disc in it doesn't light up, when I try to hit the CD button to toggle between Tuner, Tape and CD nothing happens. It's almost like the cd unit iteslf has lost power. Is there a fuse or anything I could check? The radio and tape player work fine so the fuse at the main fuse block is fine. This totally figures to because I've got 6 of my favorate cds loaded in it right now

How difficult is it to change the left ball joint? 2K OBW Took my car into Les Schwab yesterday to have this clunky noise checked out and that's the diagnosis. They quoted me 60-70 for the part (dealer only) and about 70 for labor not including alignment. Is this something I can do with relative ease? I think I even have a ball joint puller tool someplace...

Oops, yeah sorry 2000 OBW Standard (not Limited Ed) 5-spd 92,000mi Brakes were done at the 60k mile service interval. That being said, can we revisit the coolant question?

According to the service table these are the things that need to be changed during the 90k tune up: engine oil/filter coolant fuel filter air cleaner spark plugs brake fluid Questions: Coolant, are we still using the Subaru Slime? If I flush the system myself I'll have to goto the dealer to get this stuff right? If I have a shop (not the dealer) do the flush will I have to request that they use this stuff? fuel filter, air cleaner, and spark plugs; can I get this from NAPA and just ask for the OEM equivalent? My understanding is that the spark plugs are a readily available NGK plug and the LPS should have the OE number. What about the wires, the table doesn't include the wires. Am I to assume when they say plugs they mean the wires to? If so what should I use? I realize the local vote is always dealer parts but has anyone found an aftermarket equivalent for Subaru OE wires? Brake fluid; SERIOUSLY!?! I'm not going to do that myself, I'll just F it up somehow.

I'm dismissing the brake theory because the guy had the brakes done just before I bought it (and I noticed the clunky front end during my first test drive). I saw the reciept, 4 new rotors, new pads etc. the whole bill was for the 60k service interval, brakes included. The whole bill was like 3 grand

No vibrations under acceleration, just while braking- and its most promenent between a certain range like 45-35 mph

I noticed this when I first got the car (3rd owner) but it's slowly getting worse; when I brake there's a shimmy in the front. I know it's not the rotors because I can feel the "clunky looseness" when I go over a bump, hit a driveway at an angle, or hit a pot hole. The shimmy under braking is transfered up through the steering wheel so I can feel it there too. It feels like tie rod ends or something because this used to happen to my Yukon all the time. I'm wondering if this is a backyard mechanic's fix or is this something I should take in and have Les Schwab do. What could it be? Tie rod ends I could probably do, idler arms, linkage or struts I'll probably have to take in since time and tools don't really allow that sort of fix for me. Oh, 2000 OBW just rolled 93k miles

Reading another members post about a possible HG issue he mentioned the collapsed coolant hose. I'm wondering if this is normal because when my engine is cold it's always collapsed a little bit. I always thought it was because of high and low temp pressure differences. Once the car is warmed up the hose is normal. Otherwise there are no signs of HG issues (that I'm aware of). Car runs great, all scheduled maintenances done on time, SoobSlime was added at the 60k service interval, fluids checked regularly etc... 2K OBW 84,000mi

What a great recipe idea! Add: One part Subaru WRX STI Rally sport car Five parts of the world's finest freestyle snowboard riders Stir in one of the most Bit*************enest songs of our generation And serve chilled at Snow Park Resort in New Zealand What do you get? Sorry if this has been posted before, I can't imagine most of you having NOT seen this. My favorate quote of 2008: "Dude, I just got snaked by a SUBARU!"

Oh my god! I'm surprised noone has told you to "be sure and replace the sensor with an OE dealer part"!!! That's usually the SECOND thing people tell you, right after the "It's your head gaskets, they're blown" statement. Let me be the first to say, get a OE Subaru replacement sensor (goes for most sensors on the soobs). They usually don't cost that much more anyway. 1stsubaru.com usually has really decent prices.

Schucks will do it for free. I just had a CEL code pulled a couple months ago. It was the forward O2 sensor. Just be sure to write down the code. AFAIK, subaru's don't have "universal" codes that any reader will translate. It's a P0xxxx looking string of numerals, that's what you need to write down. You can then google the number and get the translation. Or just post it here.

Did the work myself. Bought the alt/battery at the local Schucks autoparts store (Schucks, aka. Checker, Kragen, CSK). It was this local autoparts store where I had the original battery tested, they said it was bad, changed the battery and they tested the alternator, the alternator was bad. After I changed the alternator I went back to return the core and had them test it again, they said everything was okay. I've heard mixed opinions about testing the alternator w/ a DVM. I've heard the DVM is not very reliable- like if the alternator is passing too much AC ripple, it won't be very evident on the DVM. Either way, this is not normal huh? We have an auto electrical specialty shop in town, I'll have them run a test and see what they say (if I remember correctly, they use the same tester Schucks uses...

I really hope it's not the alternator because it was JUST replaced, I mean like 3 weeks ago. It was a chicken/egg thing. Both battery and alternator died, which witch killed which, I don't know but the point is the alternator and battery are new. That being said, one thing I do notice now that I have a new alt/battery is whenever I'm at a stop and the car is idling and I apply the brake lights the headlamps dim just a little bit. This may not be related to the "eating of headlamps" but I never noticed that before the new alt/batter went in (yes, contacts are clean and tight). Besides that, I am very careful not to handle the new bulbs with bare hands.

About two months ago the passenger side headlamp bulb went out. Bought a two pack of bulbs from the local auto store and replaced not one, but BOTH of the bulbs. The working one I kept in the glovebox as a spare (wrapped in paper towel and kept in a film canister so it didnt get broken). Now the other day, my drivers' side bulb goes out for no reason. Figured okay, I'll put in the old spare for now till I have time to buy another pack. Well the VERY next day the passenger side bulb goes!!! WTF!?!I'm hoping this is just a fluke deal and not a weird electrical problem...

Yeah, a picture would be sweet, thanks! I looked at the HiddenHitch before and they seem pretty flush looking- one of the more expensive though- $150ish???

I think I'm the only subaru in my town that doesn't have a tow hitch! This is annoying because I see grandma driving around, she's got a hitch and I bet she doesnt' even know what its for!!! Anyway, could someone recommend a hitch for me? I'm looking for good price/quality, ease of installation (no drilling), and esthetics. I realize I can google hitches all day (which I have) but the images available dont show the actual hitch, they're generic photos. I've seen Subaru hitches that look nice and "fitted", contoured to tuck under the bumper and I've seen hitches that look like they don't belong on a Subaru at all. If I have to buy one I want it to look right. UHaul seems to have the best price ($115), but again I've never seen one in person.

A guy wants 80$ for a set of wheels and tires from a '97 Impreza Outback parts car. Is this a good deal? Not really concerened about the condition of the tires since this will be my winter set. Also, this is for a 2000 OBW, will they bolt up okay? Size okay?

I just replaced mine. Bought the front o2 sensor from 1stsubaru.com also and they sent me the wrong one The one they sent me was for the rear- this is easily identified by the plug end. The front and rear sensors have opposite plugs IOW the front sensor has a male plug (female at the harness) the rear plug has female plug (male at the harness) or visa versa. I imagine this is to prevent installing a rear sensor on the front. When I called them the guy was like, "Uhh, yeah shows you ordered the front, you got the rear, sorry. We dont have any fronts in stock". Long story short I ended up buying mine from the dealer after all (only about a 30$ difference and in stock 10 min from home). Make sure it's the right one before you remove the old plug!!! Also, I found it easiest to access mine from underneath. I also had to squirt some PBlaster and work it loose. Other wise pretty straight forward. Good luck!

Thanks for all the replies fellas. I guess my main concern was the legal ramifications and DOT standards, but after reading the WADOT article sounds like I'm all good! For you locals, I will be hitting up Baker this weekend, and for the non-locals, Baker's roads are notoriously well maintained and plowed. My snow driving experience is well above average (helps that I "look" for reasons to drive into town when there's snow on the ground), and I'm super cautious in my older [wiser] years. Friday looks like I'm riding!!!

you can't just chain up a pair of wheels on a AWD right? I'd need to buy two sets of chains and chain up all 4 wheels...

This is my first snow season in my 2000 OBW and I don't have traction tires (IE studded or Blizzacks). I'm wondering if I should stay off the Mountain Passes or if the AWD counts as "traction". I don't see much difference between my AWD and a 4WD vehicle driving the same roads with all-seasons. I'm planning on going snowboarding this weekend but I can't drop coin on a set of spare wheels and tires right now. And chains are out of the question for AWD Soobs right?BTW, my tires are only two months old and freshly siped.

Ordered an alt. from Schucks today, it'll be in by the time I get off work. $155.00 with the core deposit.No one ever responded to the "Why did it fail after on 84,000 miles..." question. I'm sure it was a chicken/egg thing. If the battery failed I suppose it could over drive the alternator and burn it up...

Thanks for all the input ya'll (as usual). Bought a new battery during lunch at work. Car started fine but just for S&G's I stopped off at Schucks to have them test the alt. The reader came back "Excessive ripple detected". So it seems as though the internal voltage regulator is failing and I'll need a new alternator. So WTF??? 2000 OBW w/ 87,000 miles chews through it's first alternator!?! Also, what's the consensus on the store-bought alternators (reman'd I imagine). It's comes with a lifetime warranty so I'm not concerned about a dealership OE alternator lasting longer cause I'll just take the one back if it fails in a couple years- yaknow?

Sadly I think Santa will already be getting me a battery for x-mas. Quite possibly an alternator also.