RenaissanceMan

Cut it apart and scrap it out? make some money on the body panels and interior parts

with an open exhaust (sidepipe) and a carby cam on a spfi engine I was able to get mine to rev to 8 grand without complaining (No low end tho, so I switched it back)

I vote for the O2 sensor as well. If it is contaminated, and giving the computer a "running rich" signal, the computer will try to lean out the mixture as much as possible, to no avail, because the O2 sensor is still reading too high of a voltage. (.8-.9 volts means rich, .1-.2 volts means lean). The leaner the mixture, the hotter it runs, causing it to detonate in the cylinder. What can cause an o2 sensor to go bad like that can be contaminants from leaking oil onto the outside of it, burning too much oil in the engine, burning coolant can contaminate it, and also can cause the element to actually crack.

a bent macpherson strut or spindle can cause camber and steering axis inclination to be all out of whack. Also you might want to inspect the inner control arm bushings to see if they arent collapsed.

I vote for wheel bearing. I had that EXACT problem on my DL right after I got it and put an engine in it (put an engine in it and drove it up to san jose like a week later).. First of all it would only happen once the wheel bearings had heated up and I had been freeway driving for a little while. Id be driving along, and on deceleration I would notice it jerk to the right randomly. When I got to san jose, the next morning I took it apart and looked at it.. There was almost as much rust and fractured pieces as there was a bearing (seals were toast too). Well I didnt feel like putting a whole lot of effort into the problem, so I went to the local PAP and pulled off a knucle. $20 and 2 hours later I had decent wheel bearings...

possibly... but I dont think it would work on our babys without modefying the suspension, or getting drivelines that had some sort of plunge joint or splines that collapesed under jounce and rebound. The torsion spring allows the supsension in the rear to go up and down with very little outward/inward movement. Also keep in mind you can abuse the heck out of which way you pull those CV joints, where as Ujoint drivelines you want to offset at 5 degrees, 7 degrees at most if you keep your speed down. Another thing to think about is that plunge joints are just ujoints with only 3 connecting points, and they can slide freely back and forth in the joint. Datsuns used Ujoint setups in the rear with the exact same R160 differentials. Maybe if you just got the whole suspension setup out of the back of a 240Z or something?

OK, so I havent really talked about my project a whole lot since I started it over a year ago, I thought I would throw it out there and tell you guys what I have done and what ya think... ideas? etc... OK, so aside from my motoless justy sitting there, I have my 1984 GL station wagon, that I have from scratch built a 6 inch body lift on top of a 2 inch suspension lift for. The rear shocks have 10 inches of travel and are air adjustable, the fronts are like subarubrat's conversion where you cut them out and put in VW beetle strut cartriges w/ RX springs giving you just shy of 8 inches of travel up front. I got some cool high performance bushings from somebody on the board, I dont remember who. The radius rods have been made with 1 inch heavy wall tubing into 5/8's teflon lined chromoly heim joints. Its got Superswamper SSR's on pug 14 steelies. I have an LSD (thanks subarujunkie) that I am putting on the rear converted to 3.9:1. for now I have just an EA82 D/R 5sp. However, I do also have a RX D/R 5sp FT4wd that I am doing SEVERE modefications to and will eventually install with shorter final drive ratios. For the powerplant I have an EA82T block that I have rebuilt to be immaculate. Gen 3 Heads -ported-, valves 3 angled, etc... (photo shows with heads off, but I have more on the engine now.) anyway, I threw the turbo in the pile and am retrofitting it to use an SC12 toyota supercharger w/ electric clutch that I got off ebay and will produce about 8 lbs of boost. Also I am using an XT spider manifold (the idea is low end torque, not more power) The front control arms for the suspension I actually cut and made longer, made longer axles, and had a machine shop make the tie rod extenders out of some super-steel (evertorque?) I needed to move the front stance out 4 inches so the suspension will clear the brake booster. It has the brakes rebuilt all around, new bearings, and disc brakes installed on the rear. The interior is gutted and has xt6 seats fitted in it. I have an aluminum radiator from a VW jetta that I mounted and plan on running dual electric fans. The motor is equipped with the adaptor for a heavy duty hayden oil cooler in addition to a remote base filter adapter for a larger filter. FUTURE PLANS INCLUDE: (but not limited to) Waste spark ignition conversion Tailgate spare tire mount "Mad Max" style bumpers Side pipes Tubing strut towers (there arent any strut towers right now) All digital guages with new dash (or ANY dash at this point) Tiger stripe paint job (brownie points) Missle launchers and a gun turret? So thats what I got, what do you guys think? any suggestions?

*bumpity*

Another one would be on ford explorers and ford full size pickups in the early 90's.. with those you can use the eyelets that come with the shocks, just throw in a couple washers (same diameter, only not as long) I got the air height adjustable ones on mine. 10 inches of travel baby! Top end of the shock is the same story, drilling out the holes, etc..

I have a 94 justy (EF12) with the "usual" oil pump problem, however I went to the dealer and the guy couldent find the oil pump, so he couldent sell me the part. Does anyone have the OE part # for this and about how much it costs? (or does anyone have one they want to sell me? heck I could use a new timing cover too if someone has got one of those) Thanks, Mike

for assembling case halves, you dont want to have any body with your sealer. Suddenly your main bearing clearances are looser than they are supposed to be. :-\ I use the Permatex Aviation stuff, which is similar to the #2, etc... Its non drying, resistant to everything (including brake cleaner to an extent), and designed specifically for assmebling machined surfaces together. just my 2 cents -Mike

dont mess with that screw, its factory preset to let a certain amount of air thru the hotwire, and if you change it your car will always either be lean or rich. (well ok, you can mess with it if you want, but I wouldent...) -Mike

Impact gun or butterfly always solved that frustration and was a lot faster. God bless air tools.

Or you could be like me and put the turbo in the pile and figure out how to put this beefy blower on it.

I couldent agree with you more on that parking light switch... all there on the column.. in your way.. And then you'll never use it and forget what its for and then randomly turn the switch on and off thinking "WHAT ON EARTH DOES THIS THING DO!" Maybe its just me tho.

my 87 DL has 292,000 miles on it.. however I work at napa, one of our regular customers has an international 1.5 ton truck with over 900,000 on it.

I have no clue what the EA81T setup is, however heres a little knowledge of port fuel injection. You can either have: Gang Fire: This is where all the injectors fire at once, and the fuel/air is carried into the combustion chamber whenever the valve opens. For this setup, a crank sensor is mainly used for RPM, and an angle sensor (and or cam sensor) is not REQUIRED, but can be used. This setup is very similar to TBI. (when using only an RPM sensor, all the injectors would deliver half the fuel needed for that rotation, and the next rotation the other half would be delivered) Bank Fire/Group Fire: Back in the 80s the gas quality wasnt that great and so having the fuel resting there on a closed hot valve caused carbon deposits to collect on the valve, restricting air after a while, also causing that cylinder to run lean, etc etc... SO what was developed was bank fire, where half the injectors would fire in one rotation, and the other half would fire in the other rotation, reducing the time the atomized gas loitered above the closed valve. ALSO on larger V8 engines firing 8 injectors at once dropped the fuel pressure considerably momentarily, to reduce this jolt of pressure loss, firing only 4 injectors at a time was more feasable. An RPM sensor and a cam sensor is required for this operation, but not necesarily an angle (position) sensor. Sequential Fire: By far the most superior and effecient system was sequential, cause each injector is able to fire right at the moment the intake valve is opening, with minimum carbon buildup, and more precise fuel control. This requires mainly two things which can be achieved from several combinations of sensors, the computer needs to know the angle of the crank, and when cylinder #1 is. on late model optical destributor ea82's this is acheived with having a circle of slits, but one slit is wider. (its been a while since I have looked at one, does that sound about right?). It can also be achieved with having a sensor ring on the crank, with different numbers of pulses for different angles, and a single pulse on the cam for cylinder #1. Anyway. I believe early model 85-86 EA82 MPFI systems were gang fire, and in 87 they switched to sequential. Unfortunately I dont know about the EA81T's I believe I have talked enough, anyone feel free to make any corrections -Mike

I have access to all the proper primers & adhesives. Also, I think your thinking this rust is a lot worse than it sounds. I am out here in california, where snow in the mountains is a blessing, and salt is something we use at the dinner table. If the rust is removed, neutralized & sealed, it will not spread, its only surface rust. Thankyou everyone for your input. Now that I know Butyl tape is illegal for windshields, I will use the straight window urethane. Ten fold I would rather pay a shop to do it, but I dont make enough money to do that kind of thing. I pulled the new windshield I am using for $15 from a junkyard for heavens sake..

thanks Torxx, thats pretty much what i had imagined it would be. I remember a couple things my auto body teacher told me in the basics body class about glass replacement. I work for him now as a lab/instructional aid at the college, so I will ask him tomorrow about any pointers before I tear into it. I'm sure he'll want to make it part of the advanced auto body class tuesday morning that I am in. Why this special primer you speak of? I was planning on just using a DTM primer/surfacer/sealer and some single stage black over it. will this cause problems do you think? -Mike

Hey there everyone, I was just wondering if anyone out there has replaced a windshield in one of these subies before? or a vehicle that also has the windshield "glued in". I'm thinkin sometime like tuesday next week I am gonna pull out my broken one, clean up the rust, paint it, and put in my replacement one. Removing glass is easy for me, just some music wire and vice grips, but I have never put a window in. Please any pointers are welcome, and do I use that "Butyl tape stuff" or just some kind of window sealant? does the stuff take long to set up? -Mike

So today was a day of "DOH!" So my dimensions are all correct, however the inner tie rods threads going to the r&p are opposite from ea81 to ea82, so I would have to change the rack over as well, WHICH will coincidentally bolt right up to an ea81 cradle... on the other side the outer tie rods have a smaller taper on the ea82 style, so if I changed over the knuckes to ea82, and switched back to the ea82 outer CV''s, In theory it would all bolt up... however... I have decided for simplicity sake, to go to the machine shop in the AM

so if anyone is interested, I just did some measurements, and YAY!!!! EA81 inner tie rods are 9 3/4" outers are 5 1/8" (14 7/8" total) EA82 inner tie rods are 11 1/4 outers are 5 3/4" (17" total) which means 2 1/8" difference between the two... which is exactly perfect! this deserves a dancin nana

actually sitting under the car at the bone yard yesterday, I happened to glance at the tie rods on a 90 loyale, ea82, whatever... I already knew the inner tie rods were about an inch longer than ea81 style, but I also notices the outer tie rods seemed about an inch longer as well... could this be the two inches I need? I always thought the ea82 body style just had a longer rack and pinion to begin with, and thats what made up for the wider wheel base... The reason the control arms are longer, is because with the stock wheelbase I could not get the struts to move in far enough so the camber would align properly (suspension lift in addition to body lift)... granted I did some hammering and got it to fit, but then I couldent put the brake booster back in.. (even with the hammering, the camber was too far off for my taste anyway) I'll keep you updated when I figure out what I am going to do

That sounds like a good idea to me, I can see $30 being reasonable. Will aluminum, even though high grade, be able to hold up to that stress tho? were talking front mounted engine first of all, unlike the Vdub, and second theres these monster 28" SSR's on it, that I plan on using for baja style offroading. I suppose if I got some stainless however the machine shop might be able to come up with something

For a clutch job to be done right, the flywheel should be inspected and surfaced. that pilot bearing in there should be replaced as well. at the very least, I would get a rotary scuff pad or sanding disk, put it in a die grinder or drill, and put a non directional surface all around the mating surface. That you can at least do without taking it out of the car. as for the real world, yes you can probably leave it the way it is, but if its glazed it will probably take a lot longer to break in the clutch, causing it to slip/burn & stuff... -Mike