RenaissanceMan

Naw, just keep the cam & stuff, just try turning the motor over backwards... who knows, it might even run... its almost tempting to try...

ok, thats either gonna be a MAJOR vacuum leak, or definetly fuel starvation like I said before. You said it was suckin up oil thru the pcv system, how much oil are we talking? you might have got all that oil on the venturi's and gummed up everything, which if thats the case, DEFINETLY rebuild the carb.

Dang, I coulda gotten you one, my parts plus store has that size of preheater hose, but tomorrow we are closing and becoming a napa store As far as the other 25 mph problem, since it was passing smog, it sounds a lot like fuel starvation, meaning your fuel pump is flaking out, or you have some sediment in the tank thats clogging up stuff. you also might wanna take off the Fuel-Input fitting on the carburetor and make sure something isnt plugging/restricting that. 2 cents for ya -Mike

Ok, you cant get rid of all the vacuum lines, in Cali the underhood inspection makes sure all things like EVAP, EGR, and PCV are properly connected, though for a 78 there shouldent be much more than that, if it even has EGR, I dont know, I have never owned one that old. Check out your points and make sure they aint fried, cause that will cause some major issues with misfiring. As for your oil problem, try replacing that PCV valve, or make sure it has the right one for the car. Its a $3 part and could probably use a new one anyway.

After reading this post... *Looks at hot-rodded EA81 in garage, needing a home* *Looks at honda shadow that needs an engine rebuild* Hmmm....

So, I just wanted to throw my 2 pennies in the pile. I love these ea82 engines over newer subaru engines just for the fact that they are dirt cheap, and EVERYWHERE. Its real hard to find a junkyard around here that doesnt have at least 2 ea82 cars. The parts for these engines are about half what EJ parts cost too. (maintenance stuff, etc). If one of these motors somehow amazingly goes bad, just toss it and get another one, and it wont put a big dent in your wallet.

wait, what R U guys talking about? I thought only N/A XT's had the spyder intake, and all the turbos had the normal dual port manifold?

quick question for all you RX braniacs out there. dont know this one because I dont own an RX. Did The RX's come with that height adjusting air suspension stuff? was it ALL of them? or some? if some, what made the difference? Thanks, Mike

someone on here makes better than poly bushings. hmm, I think his name was Dean. anyway, hopefully he will see this, or do a search for control arm bushings with the search function. I bought a full set of 4 from him for my car and they are awesome

Hey give me a PM closer to the meet and when you drive up. I am planning on making the trip too, and I am on the way in San Luis Obispo. Need an escort vehicle?

well, I dunno if anyone else is with me on this one, but I have a soft spot for the early ones. Specifically the 1973/74 Coupe Absolutely a gorgeous car in my opinion.

OK, can someone tell me if the XT6 springs and RX springs are one in the same? or are the RX springs still stiffer? I called the Subaru dealer, and the parts guy is like "What is an RX?" The most I could get out of him was that the XT turbo and XT6 springs do have different part numbers. Please Help! -Mike

Talk to SubaruJunkie. I believe on his website he had some step instructions, or at least an explanation of doing the ol' "Secondary Venturi Trick". Where you make a wire to hold this piece on the primary throttle plate assembly, to the arm on the Secondary throttle plate, opening the secondary venturi earlier at persay 1/3 throttle, rather than almost WOT. Makes the car hard to pass smog, but it gives it a little kick in the accleleration.

anything fuel injected (non CIS) is gonna have an ECT (engine coolant Temperature sensor). And if that was the problem, it would either run really badly (lean) only when cold, or run rich when warmed up. Usually when it fails its the rich scenario, causing a car to fail smog, etc. Timing belts off is a probable cause. Iginition timing is also a possibility, so take a good look at the destributor. Another thing to look at, is if the exhaust is plugged up, the car will appear to idle ok, but once you accelerate just act like a slug. More 2 cents for ya -Mike

First and easiest place to start is do a power balance test. take a test light, ground the clip, and slip the point of the electrode between the boot and the wire, til it shorts out, for each ignition wire. Listen to the engine RPM, when you short out the wire, the engine RPM should drop, if it doesnt, or does less than others, then you know that cylinder is not adding power to the engine. take some time to look at things... if there are 2 wires that show no RPM drop, try swtiching them, if both wires go to one side of the engine only, maybe that timing belt got smashed or is broken, perhaps a blown head gasket. If its just 1 wire, check things like a damaged wire, compression check in that cylinder, or the spark plug could be fouled, etc... Well anyway, thats a place to start -Mike

Use the board Seach feature and search for "EA82T mods" or "EA82T hopups" or something along those lines. -Mike

AW man!! I wish my subaru was running... but, unfortunately, its still getting monsterized. I live in SLO, and I work in Grover Beach! but hey if you actually DO break any parts, Call up grand auto, I work there.. 489-4122 We probably have what ya need, and if not, I probably have it sittin at home.. -Mike (hope she says yes!)

For those that are just looking for the oil cooler setup, Hayden Part numbers are Hayden 459 for the Light duty Hayden 457 for the medium/heavy duty. Comes as a kit with everything you need

I'm sorry, but all my teachers, one of which has 50+ years in the automotive industry and is retiring this year, say that it is better to use tap/hose water. Yes I am sorry I did not mean to type it as reacting with the antifreeze, I did mean to say reacting with the water as far as boiling point. What the impurities do with the antifreeze has to do with the lubrication of the water pump bearing and seal. I am not saying go down to your local city drainage creek and fill your radiator up with that... Heck no all that stuff will definetly build up deposits, but using distilled water doesnt gain a darn thing. Why its recommended is for most people out there that decide to flush their radiator every 15 years whether it needs it or not. *Once the ethylene glycol starts breaking down and becoming alkali, then you get electrolysis action and corrosion from regular tap water yes. If you do it every 2-3 years like you're supposed to, this corrosion never happens.* Normal operating temperature on a warm day is like 220 degrees for most modern engines. thats cutting it close for me... with 50/50 were talking a boiling point of 230 degrees plus the pressure bringing it up to around 270ish , and still having a freezing point of around 10-15 degrees.

Dood I have always wanted to get one of those 1600's and try puttin on aftermarket VW carbs and see what happens. I bet if you got delortos it would "come alive". The hard part would be keeping them running right. Them italians arent known for reliability

OK guys, we just covered this antifreeze mixture issue in class earlier in the semester. Ethylene glycol reacts with the minerals and deposits in the water to change the boiling point and freezing point of water. By itself, the freezing point is actually higher and boiling point lower than when mixed with water. keeping a mixture of 50/50 has the broadest temperature range without freezing or boiling the coolant. I believe you can go 10 or 20 percent either direction to obtain coolant better for higher or lower climates. 30W/70A for colder climates, and 70W/30A for warmer climates. BUT when you do this the range gets narrower. For that colder climate it might boil persay at 25 degrees cooler than 50/50 when you only gained 10 degrees lower on the freezing point. What I am trying to say, is just go with 50/50 for MOSTLY EVERYWHERE. changing coolant mixtures might be for if you lived in alaska or something. And thats what I put my vote on. -Mike (btw, for those that dont know, dont use bottled or distilled water for your coolant. Use hose water, the antifreeze needs those impurities.)

Mesa? Mesa where? Mesa, Idaho? Mesa, California? Mesa Shri Lanka? I live down here in central coast cali, and next to arroyo grande there is a place called "the mesa" and there are a bunch of junkyards up there. You arent talking about that are you?

I got a custom intake manifold and holley carb setup that will bolt on that ea81 and make your engine sound like a race car and breathe up to 7 grand...(if you open up the exhaust of course)

Imagine a perfect world, where all grease, tar, dirt, and paint oxidation wipe off with ease. Where parts on your car that are supposed to be painted, will actually show the paint! NO SCRUBBING or SCRAPING INVOLVED! call now! operators are waiting! Well, I dont know how many of you out there have tried this before, but its one of the products my store sells and I figure I would give it a shot. Its called S-C (super concentrate) DEGREASER. Its made by GUNK (radiator specialty company). it comes in a little yellow bottle and you have to buy a seperate container of solvent with it. I just picked General Purpose Virgin Solvent. YOU mix the stuff up, 1 part Degreaser to 10 parts solvent, or thereabouts, and grab soft brush and away we go! I tell you, I cannot describe the 20 years of grease I had on my firewall below the steering column, and on the opposite side etc.. From all the road tar, and how many numerous times a CV boot went bad, it was awful, to where you couldent even scrape it off. So you liberally brush this stuff all around. no real scrubbing, just sit there and brush around the solvent and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Grab your shop towel and WIPE AWAY to a beautiful painted surface underneath that hasnt seen the light of day since it came from the factory! Just work your way around brushing the stuff on and letting it soak in, thats it! It takes ALL that stuff and just disolves it to nothing, you dont even have to use gloves (though I probably should). I have used a lot of solvents and degreasers in the past, and nothing compares to what I saw this stuff do. On light stuff I almost always use simple green because its environmentally friendly, but there are some things simple green just cant do, and thats where I'd say this product is a miracle worker.

If you want new parts only, I work at a locally owned parts store. because its a subaru I could make you a deal, and then we can workout shipping or whatever. just an offer to help, Private Message me if your interested