john in KY

Check the fusible links but my better guess is you overlooked reattaching a ground wire or some of the engine wiring harness is still unplugged. If for some reason you removed the coil bracket, make sure it is thightly bolted to the car body because the bracket has to be grounded.

I don't believe it is a one-off bearing. Doesn't make sense economically. Find a "bearing house", a business that only sells bearings. There is such a business locally but that doesn't help you. Another option is maybe whatever the bearing is installed in can have the hole diameter increased to accommodate a slightly different/more available bearing.

Yes. I've been told mounting the carrier bearing for the driveshaft can be a problem. Everything els is pretty much just wrench work. Remove this, install that, etc.

My guess is bigger is better. Air tools require volume which a larger diameter hose should provide.

Starter solenoid wire left unplugged?

Just my experience over the years: 2 chainsaws, one radio, set of 17.5 tires. Used Paypal every time and no problems.

Solenoids for the front struts are located on the firewall. Rear strut solenoids are located on the struts. If the compressor is good, struts will inflate when the solenoids are opened. I would suspect a weak compressor. See if it will inflate a strut with the weight of the car removed. (Just jack the car up.) "so it seems like any pressure in the lines should fill up any strut which has an open solenoid (letting air in)." ​Makes sense to me. That other solenoid you tested may not be opening. You should hear a click when energized.

Double-check the fuel and return lines. May have reinstalled them backwards.

Probably a good idea to also get the crossmember.

The XT6 never offered a FWD manual. Only the XT had that option.

Could be not enough or too much air, little or no fuel pressure, no spark and that's about it.

Pretty sure this model didn't get the 4EAT until 1988. If so, that transmission is AWD, meaning no 2WD option.

Maybe the drain plug, that "bolt", needs tighten or a new gasket. Just had another thought. Maybe the transmission's front seal was damaged when the engine was swapped.

Appears to me the pan has been off before and a bunch of RTV was used. My guess is the source of the leak is the pan.

Probably is not the starter. Remove and clean the battery connections. Also clean that small wire at the starter. It activates the starter solenoid.

Yes, will not run on ether. Put plenty in the throttle body and no go. OK, will have a look under timing cover. Thanks again. You sure the plugs are firing?

You have spark. check to see if you have fuel and then verify you didn't cross the lines under the hood. Then go from there.

Also when you changed the fuel lines, make sure you didn't cross them. Replacing the fuel pump isn't difficult if that turns out to be the problem but replace it with an OEM pump. Few years ago my pump failed and I bought a non OEM pump that was described as being a direct fit. It wasn't and ended up costing me $500 when it fell off 300 miles from home.

Sniff the oil. Does it have a gasoline smell? Pull the vacuum line at the FPR and see if the FPR has ruptured.

I just happen to have a FWD 4EAT pulled from a 94 Legacy probably 12 years ago. Been sitting in a shed all these years. Mileage somewhere around 88K if I remember correctly. PM me if interested.

Noid light will not come on at any time at injector 1. Not sure about this but thinking the injectors receive 12 volts (not from the ECU) and the circuit is completed at the ECU, the ground. If I am correct, then the noid light should show a solid light even if the ECU is bad. Won't flash. Any chance the problem is a blown fuse? Sounds like the problem is the injectors are not receiving a 12V signal.

Checked cam timing it's dead on set tdc on compression stroke ​That doesn't sound right. From memory the camshaft timing marks line up when the piston is 1/2 way up the cylinder. Sounds like the valve timing is way off but in your post, no mention of tinkering with the timing belts. Odd.

I think it is yellow in color.

Check the fuel line and return line. May have them crossed.

I have no idea but do know if the car has one, the switch has a reset button. Call the dealership in the morning and ask about an inertia switch, that's what it is called.