john in KY

Postmordem: SFB1 (slow burn fuse) feeds the circuit breaker (black wire with white stripe)under the dash and from there power flows to the relay via a yellow wire. The circuit breaker and relay are also used by the sunroof. I finally determined the black wire from SFB 1has a short. Since the rear defroster no longer works and it is on a 20A circuit, I first cut out the BW wire and ran a new wire from the rear defrost fuse location to the circuit breaker. Wired in a 20A fuse between the fuse panel and circuit breaker. Attempting to pinpoint a short somewhere in the main wiring harness in a 20-year old car just didn't seem to me to be worth the time. Windows work now. Car has 300k miles and can't last much longer.

The relay is located just to the right of the circuit breaker. Someone on another forum turned me on to the location. "Does your Outback have a sunroof, and if so, does it work? If it does, then the relay is good. The power windows and the sunroof share the same fuses, circuit breaker, and relay. I've attached two diagrams that appear to show where the relay could be found. Did you check both fuses with a continuity tester or just visually (which can sometimes miss a small crack)?" 23=circuit breaker 24=sunroof/power window relay

I'll say that is true. Just returned from a wrecking yard where I pulled both front seats and associated carpeting. Nothing under the carpeting but I appreciate the advice. Found a diagram on the web that shows what I am looking for behind the passenger-side kick panel. Will pull and verify. Pulled kick panel and no relay. Someone out there must know where the window relay is located.

The connector is just inside the body behind the kick panel. Some progress. That clicking noise turned out to be an aftermarket security whatever. I removed it and tossed it. Took Fairtax4me advice and pulled the kick panel. Only one small wire was hot. Tested it at the other end and nothing. Don't really want to pull that door harness. Best news is I disconnected the harness to the motor, hot wired it, and the window is now closed. Tomorrow or whenever the weather is nice again, I think I'll backfeed current at the motor harness connection. If the door locks work, that may tell me something. Did some thinking and there is no way power from just that one small wire can feed 4 electric motors. Has to be a relay somewhere in the circuit.

1995 Legacy. Master switch in driver's door does nothing and strangely enough the door lock switch has also failed. Checked all the fuses and not the problem. Removed door panel, unplugged the master switch and checked for power reaching the switch. No power making it to the switch. I know from my XT6 days there is some sort of master control panel for the windows under the carpet under the passenger-side seat. Wondering if the Legacy has a similar setup. Recap: fuses good no power at the switch locks failed at the same time. What is the connection between the door locks and the windows? Edit: When I removed the door panel, something was clicking. Probably a relay but I didn't pursue the sound and then it stopped. Just recalled hearing it. Is the some sort of relay inside the door?

Wheels in pristine condition probably worth $800. No guesses on the lid.

And the front brakes do almost all the stopping anyways.

Someone needs to explain to me how one one hand, the engine cranks, and on the other, the crankshaft doesn't move.

Pretty sure there is no starter relay. Current flows through the ignition switch directly to the starter solenoid. I'd suspect the ign switch.

I'd first check the battery for charge. Not sure if the headlights can be turned on with the engine not running but put the ign key in the run position and check the brightness of the headlights. There is a rocker switch just behind the steering wheel that is there for the 4-way flashers. Use it to see if the flashers work. If you have headlights/flashers than the battery is not the problem. You stated the starter was recently changed. Check the battery and ground cable at the starter for tightness. Also check that small wire at the starter solenoid is still attached.

You may just want to leave it inplace. There is a disconnect/connection under the rear seat.

Other timing belt has nothing to do with this problem. There is a small "cannister" attached to the coil bracket. Forget what it is called but the entire coil bracket needs to be grounded to complete the circuit. No ground=no spark. Coil should see 12volts. Check all the fusible links near the battery.

Check the rotor. May be loose and also check while cranking the engine. May be a broken timing belt.

Two things come to mind. Could be a failing fuel pump or a leaking fuel pressure regulator. To check the FPR, just pull the vacuum line. If the line has fuel, then the regulator is leaking.

ANCO 48-17

Just from memory I recall there is a problem with the ball joint being different sizes. Problem resolved by using the XT6 lower control arm or something like that. Been a lot of years.

Die grinder.

Have you considered a ruptured FPR? That would explain low fuel pressure and the over-rich fuel condition.

Plugs are wet so that means fuel is reaching the cylinders. Need to check for spark. If there is spark, just about has to be a timing belt problem. There are plenty of good posts on the forum that outlines how to install the belt. Very common mistake involves using the wrong mark on the crank pulley.

Wheel bearing?

Always the dealer but the last time I did this job, just took an injector to the local NAPA dealer where the correct size was matched from a box of many different sizes.

Brake shoes are only sold in sets. You can't buy shoes for just one wheel. Brake hardware costs very little. So just replace everything on both sides. And I would replace both drums since one has to be replaced anyways.

Cut a metal patch panel larger than the hole, lather it with RTV goop, and rivet the patch to the pan. Lots of rivets, like one every 1/4 inch.

Sounds normal to me. At idle the lights/heater motor get just 12 volts off the battery. Race the engine and the alternator kicks in and now around 14V flows to the lights.

Try it with the E-brake cable disconnected at the caliper.