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john in KY

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Everything posted by john in KY

  1. Timing is correct and the plugs are firing means to me you have a fuel problem. Check for a blown fuse and check to see if the fuel pump under the RR wheel is working.
  2. Check all the tone rings for cracks. A cracked tone ring will trip a code.
  3. After breaking several 1/2" sockets and breaker bars I moved up to 3/4" stuff with a 5 foot cheater. works ever time.
  4. $1200 plus labor is a lot of money to me. So the torque convertor doesn't go into lock-up mode when cruising. Big deal. You lose a little fuel economy and the engine will cruise at a slightly higher rpm but neither is the end of the world. And if it is a "dirt" problem, driving it for a while may cure the problem.
  5. My guess is you overlooked a vacuum line when you reinstalled the heads. Had the same symptoms once when I replaced the sensor for the speedometer. Discovered a small vacuum line connecting what I don't know wasn't connected.
  6. Also fairly sure the transmission tunnel in your 87 is too small for the 4EAT.
  7. Once owned the exact same car. Served me very well. Had 250K on it when I sold it and it was still running strong. The transmission will be the 4EAT which is a plus to me.
  8. Coil bracket also needs to be grounded but have you checked the timing belt?
  9. The OP stated the engine has no spark. The passenger-side timing belt whether it is broken or not has nothing to do with a no-spark condition. From experience I can attest the engine will run on 2 cylinders when the passenger-side belt breaks.
  10. Crank engine with the distributor cap off. If the rotor doesn't turn, broken timing belt.
  11. Hydraulic. Reseal the oil pump along with a new block to pump gasket solves the problem the vast majority of the time. Edit: Advice was for a Loyale but your picture shows a Legacy. Two different animals. Also no Legacy came with a 3-speed automatic so is the photo the car in question or are you asking about a Loyale?
  12. Don't know the correct way to adjust it. Method I have used on my XT6s involved starting more or less in the middle of the range and then driving the car stopping to make small adjustments. Too far one way and you get the hard shifts. Too far the other way and car runs like crap and no upshifts. Keeping playing with it until you find the sweet spot.
  13. I'd say yes. Takes more fuel to start a cold engine. Because the fans are running, the ECU "sees" a hot engine and therefor no need to add the extra fuel. The CTS along with the ECU performs the same function a choke did in the good old days.
  14. Sounds more like the AFM or whatever it is called on the newer models has failed. My 95 had the exact same symptoms years ago. Just replaced the meter with a $5 wrecking yard replacement and problem solved.
  15. Won't a differential from an XT6 with the differential lock be the best of both worlds?
  16. I have some rear struts from a 1997 Legacy GT with something like 20K miles on them I'll sell cheap if interested. Plus a pair of new/never installed top mounts.
  17. Thinking a little less than 40 psi. 66 pounds makes me wonder because I ran a little more than that when I had my 90 turbo wagon and never had a problem. OP may need new or cleaned injectors but I would still first suspect the FPR or he crossed the fuel lines when he reinstalled the engine.
  18. That much pressure suggests to me the fuel pressure regulator is the source of your problem. Are you sure you didn't cross the fuel lines? Thinking the fuel runs from the filter, through the injectors, to the FPR and then back to the tank.
  19. If it is anything like the XT, just remove the steering column cover and drill out the "headless" bolts. A lefthanded drill bit works great for this.
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