john in KY

Any chance the fuel and return lines got swapped?

XT and XT6 have different headrests.

Thinking the changeover occurred 1/87 If so, the distributers show be the same. Won't hurt to recheck the engine wiring harness. Always that chance something didn't get plugged in during the engine swap.

Use a test light to verify the injectors are receiving 12V. The ECU completes the ground but it needs a signal from the crank angle sensor,CAS, inside the distributor. My guess is if the injectors are getting the 12v then the problem is most likely the CAS. Could be the wiring going back from the engine to the ECU but I doubt that.

Make sure you didn't swap the positions of the fuel lines when the engine was installed. Very easy to do.

i met a guy once whole hauled 2 tons of wood with his second gen brat not including the trailer weight and he said he hauled 1 ton in the bed A physical impossibility. A ton of wood roughly equates to 1/2 cord . A cord measures 4x4x8 ft. or 128 cubic ft. I don't know the dimensions of a BRAT bed but there is no way it can hold 64 cubic feet of anything.

Someone correct me if I am wrong but doesn't 240psi equate to about a 16:1 compression ratio?

Had the same problem. In my case the problem turned out to be one of the linkage rods in the driver's door was disconnected. May be worth the time to pull the door panel and see what is going on.

Don't know. But do know the engine is stalling because something that should be turning freely isn't.

Maybe the starter motor is locked up/failed.

Fresh ATF + worn out clutches will do that.

Well, if the filter was totally clogged sounds like at least the clutches are gone.

Started my wife's grandmother's car that sat in a garage for 20 years with just an oil change and fresh gasoline.

Only have limited electrical experience but my understanding is since the alternator requires a small amount of current to function, once the battery is out of the circuit the alternator should stop producing electricity.

My understanding is if there is a good exhaust leak between the engine and turbo, don't expect any boost from the turbo. There is a vacuum line from the intake manifold that runs to the wastegate controller. If you pull it, that takes the controller out of the loop and the turbo will boost to who knows how high. Just a test to determine if the turbo is producing any boost at all.

Also pay attention to the brake shoes. Often one will be slightly longer than the other. Rule of thumb is the longer shoe goes behind the axle. Short shoe in front. Never done Subaru rear brakes but plenty of others over the years. Hardest part probably will be installing those spring-loaded hold -down pins. Needle nose pliers are my tool of choice. Forgot to mention replace all the hardware. Only costs a few dollars. And I won't reuse the wheel cylinders. Just not worth it.

Easiest way to increase boost is to "fool" the waste gate controller. Find its vacuum line, slice in a T-fitting and attach about of 30 inches of vacuum line to the T. The 30 inch line just dumps into the atmosphere. Got to use a boost gauge to find the optimum length. I ran 12 pounds of boost for 100K miles without a problem in a 90 turbo wagon.

Once had an 85 EA82 with the same symptoms. Turned out a small vacuum line connected to the intake manifold over #1 cylinder was cracked. How such a small vacuum leak could cause such a large problem was and is still a mystery to me.

Not an EA82 expert but doesn't it have a coolant crossover incorporated within the intake manifold? Maybe the intake has a small crack or hole allowing the coolant to be sucked into the intake runner.

Could also just restrict the return line to increase pressure.

Insure the coil bracket is well grounded.

My guess is the Toy alternator is internally regulated and the Subaru is external. If so, a no-go. But just take the alternator to someplace like AutoZone and have it "tested". The person doing the test can tell you what all the terminals are.

The ECU completes the fuel pump circuit by providing the ground. Easiest way to check the pump is to just hotwire it. Will either work or not. The relay I think is behind the radio. I once had an 85 XT turbo and the injectors won't sometime fire. Turned out there is a ground wire connected to one of the intake manifold bolts, right side of engine. In my case the bolt was so corroded, it didn't always make the ground. Good chance this wire is missing or just not connected. You pull trouble codes with the green connector connected, not disconnected.

I have a FWD 4EAT from a 93 Legacy w/111K miles on it. If you want to fool with the shipping arrangements, make me an offer.