john in KY

Just an idea because once I had a similar problem. You could have a baffle loose inside the muffler flopping around restricting exhaust flow.

Nipper's suggestion that the problem is either the starter or its solenoid is probably the correct diagnosis. There is no relationship between the starter and alternator. The starter gets its voltage directly from the battery and when activated, the current flows through the starter, through the engine block, and back to the battery. Although I am puzzled why the starter disengages after the shifter is moved out of Park. But whatever, in my mind it is either the starter or the ignition switch.

My guess is the new alternator has nothing to do with the two problems. Another guess is the problem lies within the ignition switch. " A BAD DIODE between the alternator and the starter motor." Never heard of this. Why would there even be a diode between the alternator and starter? The starter doesn't even care if there is even an alternator. all it needs is a charged battery.

Did you use the 3 hash marks on the flywheel and did you rotate the engine 360 degrees after installing the first belt and before installing the second? This model has FI.

I would do the alignment last.

Just a thought. Since this is an electronic transmission either the transmission control unit, TCU, or that fan-shaped whatever on the side of the transmission could be the problem.

I once "killed" a forklift many years ago when I worked in a steel mill. Sort of used it as a bulldozer one night pushing used pallets into a large pile that I then sat on fire. The dept. supervisor sure was puzzled when he drove past it the next morning. Anyways, the area i was cleaning up was lousy with steel banding material. When I came to work the next shift, the forklift was on its side and a couple of guys with torches worked the entire shift cutting the banding straps from the driveshaft. Strange thing is no one said a word to me about it even though it was obvious I was responsible for the damage. Believe me, steelworkers in general and white hats in particular are not known for their social skills.

You should have 2 relays mounted on the passenger-side strut tower. The switch is mounted down low on the passenger-side of the radiator.

I once ran a 90 turbo wagon with a few modifications 100K miles running 12 pounds of boost and never had a problem. New radiator, larger injectors, cooler spark plugs, 2 degrees less timing, lots of fuel pressure. I loved that car.

What about a leaky injector?

Washer/nut down the carb got me thinking about a 394 Olds engine I bought for $15 about 45 years ago. Bought it just to take it apart. The person I bought the engine from dropped a small nut down the carb. When I removed the cylinder heads, the damage was awesome. Every combustion chamber and the tops of every piston was hammered. How that nut moved among all the cylinders is still a mystery to me but somehow it did.

Not clear why you need a new pump but if the pump is still there, all it needs is cleaned and new brushes to work. The pump is powered by an electric motor. The insides of the motor gets really nasty after many years and the brushes wear out. Clean it and install new brushes for about $30 and you will be good to go. I have the seat belt thing you need and also a full can of the special power steering fluid.

Are you talking the driveshaft joints or the CV axle joints? As far as I know, the CV axles are the same.

I have both the XT6 driveshaft and a 5-speed transaxle but shipping from KY would be a bear.

I think the back half is the same. Probably 1/2 of all XT6s had the 5-speed. Rarer than hen's teeth.

Take a look at the fracture. If the coil has been broken for awhile, the crack will be completely rusted. If it cracked on the way home, a portion of the crack will not be rusted.

I have found several LSDs over the years and all came out from under GL10 turbo models.

Could the problem be within the differential?

I'll sell my pin socket for $25 shipped.

Start by checking for 12v at the distributor and coil with the ign sw in the RUN position. If neither has voltage, then either the ign sw is funky or it is not receiving 12v (blown fuse). If the distributor is getting 12 volts, then problem is either bad points or condenser. From your posts, sounds like the coil is not receiving any voltage. This means either a blown fuse or a bad ign sw. Voltage flows from the battery to the IGN SW where it branches off and flows to the coil, distributor and the starter solenoid (when the key is in the Start position). You just need to find where in the circuit the flow stops. And for everything to work, there has to be a good ground somewhere to complete the circuits.

I have one of those. Haven't seen it in 10 years. Will have to look to see if I still have it.

Let's see, 4 bolts hold the rack in place, one bolt for the steering shaft, two lines to disconnect, and the tie rod ends. The tie rod ends will be the only real problem. There is a tool used to pop them loose. Good idea to also replace the two rubber bushings that are part of the mounting brackets. http://www.bing.com/shopping/tools-otc7503-outer-tie-rod-remover-7503/p/C681385A156252E5C174?q=Outer+Tie+Rod+Remover+Tool&lpq=Outer%20Tie%20Rod%20Remover%20T

I'm thinking the CC and brake light on problems are related. The CC system is designed to disengage when the brakes are applied. I'm thinking the CC is engaging/disengaging because it thinks the brakes are being applied. The brake light is on either because the fluid level in the MC is low or the sensor in the MC is defected. Firing on 3 cylinders sounds like either a spark plug or wire problem.

Replaced the cat a few years ago and have since replaced the front sensor twice. Engine currently has about 230K. Seriously thinking about selling the car and upgrading to something newer with less mileage. System had two sensors. Both were replaced when the new cat was installed.

I'm having the same problem. Replaced the sensor but the code has returned so there is something else causing the problem. thinking I may need to have the injectors cleaned.