john in KY

It's not the battery and I doubt if there is a problem with the starter. Just as a test, why not loosen all the drive belts. If the sound disappears, then something driven by the belts is causing the problem.

If you are any good with a welder, just cut the top off and replace it with another good one. Saw and helped to do this many years ago when a local kid rolled his 57 Chevy. My cousin removed the crushed top with just a hacksaw. Replacement top was set in place and after some welding and grinding, the car looked factory again. Just have to measure carefully before cutting. Easy to remove metal but a bear to add metal. I don't believe you could ever message the damaged roof well enough to get a windshield to fit.

Don't overlook the possibility there is a crack in the turbo.

Also check that intake hose between the AFM and throttle body for looseness/cracks/other hoses not connected. The no-crank problem could be fuse related.

I have never been able to do that over the 15 years I have fooled with this. The bolts I have worked with even fight me going in. Have always believed these bolts have the same type of threads used on rear axle U-bolts which are supposed to be used only once and then replaced. But maybe you have bionic figures whereas I don't.

Good decision. That bolt is designed not to easily loosen. Have removed a few over the years and every one has fought me all the way out. Sort of like rear axle U-bolts under car/trucks with solid rear axles.

Correct ignition timing should be 20 degrees BTDC with the green test connector located next to the ECU in the trunk connected.

Doesn't make any difference. The distributor was just installed 180 degrees off. Plus if you rotate the engine one more full revolution, the dots will be where shown in the picture.

The flywheel should also have ignition timing marks. There will be an inspection hole directly behind the throttle body.

They aren't. Have seats from a 2002 LL Bean in my 95. All the mounting bolts match up except one. Thinking the rear inner ones. Also you will have to reuse the original seat belts because the newer ones have a different latching mechanism.

Kind of harsh and I wonder how you maintained this engine and where did you come up with this "magical" number of 35K? Wondering if you ran straight 40wt. oil in the winter, ran all winter with the radiator covered with a sheet of cardboard, ever changed any of the filters or lived 20 miles out of town down a dirt road. Lots of reasons an engine will fail. Often it is the operator's fault. Just my 2 cents.

Each of the "wings" behind the steering wheel with all the controls have a sliding switch on the bottom. The right switch is for the wiper speed and the left adjusts the instrument panel illumination levels. I'd suspect the problem lies here.

Since you have power on both sides of the fusible link, my guess is the fix will be found on the back side of the fuse panel.

Guessing you could get a feel for how hot the engine got by removing the T-belt covers. If melted that to me is a pretty good indication the engine got really hot.

Battery cables/posts?

Probably just have the distributor position off. And it is easy to install it 180 degrees out. My method involves installing the distributor where I think it is right without the hold down bolts. The wife cranks the engine while I slowly turn the distributor CW/CCW. If the engine fires, I know I am close. If it doesn't, I pull the distributor and reinstall it 180 degrees off. Just trail and error until I find the sweet spot.

You installed the belts wrong. Have to use the 3 slashes on the flywheel. And after installing the first belt, have to rotate the engine one full rotation before installing the second. When finished, one "hole" will be in the 12:00 position and the other in the 6:00 position. Miles Fox did a write-up with photos. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

Almost sounds like you have crossed some vacuum lines.

Make sure all the vacuum lines are attached. You may have caused a vacuum leak somewhere.

Make sure you don't have a broken timing belt.

Just to add balance, been buying parts from RockAuto for the last 15 years and have yet to have any problems.

My guess is when the heads are torqued, these measurements will change again. And when the engine is up to operating temperatures, another change.

I am with Deener on this one. Probably nothing wrong with the block/head/gasket. More likely you are concentrating on the wrong area. Check the intake gaskets and even the intake manifold. Could have a crack or small hole in it.

In most cases when the passenger side belt breaks, it is because one or more of the tensioners have failed. Would be a good idea to replace all of them.