john in KY

One of the two timing belts probably broke.

Your real problem is there is somewhere nearby the car a large mice population. This colony of mice are only there because there is a large food source. Need to identify and remove the food source and find where the mice are nesting.

The short block is probably worth more than the heads. Have to believe you would have no problem selling the engine complete. At least hang onto the distributer because they are hard to find.

Check the fusible links.

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Where are you located? I have a FWD transmission with 113K miles from a 93 Legacy. The EA82/4EAT transmission will not work because the bellhousing bolt pattern is different.

Make sure the cooling system has been properly burped before making any other changes.

Test it with a magnet. If not attracted to the magnet, then it is stainless.

These guys supposedly have a new one for $190. http://www.Rubins.com/

Answer is no. I'd reseal the oil pump before doing anything else. If that fails, just have the HLA rebuilt.

The GL10 will have 4wdb and more than likely the LSD rear differential. Seats are much better than in the GL. If you use the turbo transmission in your car, you won't even have to swap the rear differential because the turbo had the 3.70 ratio, same as what is under your car now. You could easily resell the LSD for a couple of hundred dollars.

Just to left of the trip computer there is a small plug. Remove and remove the screw behind it. Remove trip computer and this enables you to remove the radio. Finally there are two screws below the radio which requires removing the center console to get to. Only thing now holding the trim piece are clips.

I emailed some photos today. Follow that cable and it connects very near the gas pedal. Just unclips. If you can see the 4 relays, the fuel pump relay is on the right and in the back.

Fairly sure the center console will need to be pulled. Shifter handle has one or two small screws. The console has 4 screws, two on a side, down by the carpet. They are hidden behind small plugs about one inch square. Have to find them and remove to get to the screws. Those plugs aren't easy to find but they are there.

That clamp will have 2 headless bolts. Use a left-handed drill bit and they will easily come out. just replace the entire ign assembly. Just use regular bolts to replace the "security" bolts.

I think those 4 relays in a rack under the radio can be gotten to by pulling the center console. Just been too many years to be sure.

It is either under the radio or behind the trim panel, back seat, passenger side. I recall there is a relay there and fairly sure it is for the fuel pump. If the car has been sitting for years, which I think it has, good chance the fuel pump is now toast. Could just run 12 volts to it and ground the other side to check if it still works.

Check the air intake hose for cracks or dangling extra hoses. Chance you may be drawing a lot of unmetered air. Also the IAS may be stuck open. I would just replace the air meter if no cracks are found in the hoses. The XT turbo and all the sedan and wagon models with the MPFI, along with the XT6, used the same air flow meter.

Remove the rear seat and it is obvious.

If you have room to clamp onto it with Vicegrips, straight on, not at a right angle, turn and simultaneously pull.

Take the car to the on-post auto craft shop. Staff there can determine what is wrong and give advice how to repair whatever is wrong.

Your problem is you aren't getting enough current to the starter solenoid. The solenoid is that round thing on top of the starter. What I always do is to add a relay somewhere under the hood near the starter. The original wire that connected to the solenoid is used to activate the relay. Run a heavy wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the starter solenoid. Throw a fuse somewhere inline to be safe and your problem is solved.

Gary, I have a new one for a 2002 sitting on a shelf.

Remove the boot to reveal a snap ring. Use a screwdriver to roll it out.