john in KY

When my alternator bearing failed a few years back I first noticed that chirping sound. Noise got progressively worse over a two week span. When the bearing is on its last leg the alternator will be too hot to touch after just a short drive.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106

Maybe when you installed the new seal, you managed to dislodge that spring on the backside of the seal. The new seal should have stopped the leak. Either the original seal was bad or the crank snout was worn but if worn, that should have been obvious. At one time you could buy repair kits for a worn crankshaft. Just a thin wall tube that slid over the damaged snout.

You'll need the control arms to use the sway bar. Have a pair of new XT6 rear FWD shocks if interested. Grab the MC also.

Also a line that runs to the turbo. My money on this one and it is a bear to replace.

Engine needs to be rotated a full 369 degrees, not 180, after installing the first belt. Need to also use the correct marks on the flywheel. But having said this, the engine would have fired on 2 cylinders even if the second belt was installed out of phase. I know this because I didn't install the second belt correctly the first time I did a timing belt job and the engine ran on just 2 cylinders. So it appears the distributor timing is way off.

Pull one of the ATF lines that go to the radiator and crank the engine. ATF everywhere means the pump is good. No flow means the pump is broken.

Vacuum modulator on the passenger side of the transmission. Also make sure the vacuum line is still connected.

If you removed the brake caliper for the repair, recheck its mounting bolts.

Will do. Thanks.

Thinking I need another distributor for an 8 9 XT. Also thinking all the EA82 NA distributors after 1988 interchange but 100% sure of this. Anyone know for sure?

May just be a broken timing belt.

I removed the headrests from a pair of XT seats just last week. Feel around with your fingers and one of the "posts" will have a wire clip thingee. I used needle nose pliers and twisted that clip and that freed the headrest. Don't know if that was the correct procedure to remove them but it worked for me.

The last 100K miles I drove my turbo wagon, ran 12 pounds of boost and no IC. Guess I was just lucky.

I would repair the body damage and drive it as is. My old 90 turbo wagon had over 300K on it when I sold it and it was still running great. Old radiators and dirty injectors will kill this engine. Since you have to replace the radiator anyways, that is one potential problem resolved. I won't trust the injectors without having them cleaned since the car has ben sitting so many years.

I have a few used ones.

I have replaced my fair share of clutches over the last 40 years and have never replaced any of these bolts or had a failure.

Pull the vacuum line on the FPR just for jollies.

You will have to retain the 86 intake manifold. I have a good short block saved from an 89 XT and an AWD 5-speed from an 89 turbo wagon that has the 3.70 ratio.

It was the AFM on my car.

Could be wrong but I think the compressor will have a data spec tag on it that will state all this.

Don't know why seemingly everyone is down on FWD Subarus. Drove one for 3 years in Alaska and it never failed me.