john in KY

Just replaced the one on my car and Heartless has the correct location. Really way down there but it is down there. Don't overtorque the mounting bolt. Thinking something like 17lbs.

May want to check for fuel pressure before tearing it down too far.

Should be a sticker on the bellhousing. Maybe a dealer could tell you something with the number. Just thought don't all newer cars have the vehicle's VIN stamped on all the major components?

Post a photo of the "wolfhound". I love big dogs.

Pull a spark plug and check for wetness. Also pull the FPR vacuum line. If fuel pours out, or if any fuel in the line, the FPR has ruptured.

Little knock sensor related story. At least once a year I make a run home to Ohio, a 600 mile trip. the old wagon used to do it on less than two full tanks. Last few years noted it was taking almost 3 tanks to make the trip and the old car just didn't seem to have the get up and go it once had. Chalked it up to age as I don't have what I once had. Returning from Ohio, threw a check engine code that turned out to be the knock sensor. Removed it and noticed its housing was cracked. New sensor and the engine now runs great and the old fuel economy has returned.

Use a stack of washer and a longer bolt and that will reposition the alternator out where it should be. You sure when you took everything apart the alternator didn't have two spacers?

I am thinking it is possibly: power steering rack any help would be appreciated. What ever happened with this problem? Check the bushings that hold the rack in place.

My money is on the TO bearing. Only once had an input shaft bearing failure and it sounded nothing like what you described.

One easy way to differentiate between XT6 and newer knuckles is to look at the two strut mounting holes. If both holes are the same size then it is an XT6 knuckle. If the top hole is larger because it is used with a camber bolt, then that is not an XT6 hub.

Check to see if the rotor is turning when cranking the engine. More than likely you now have a broken timing belt.

A friend had the same problem. In his case, problem was the plug wires.

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After you install the new radiator, cut open the old one and you will see why the garden hose trick was a waste of time.

In the rear: hubs, backing plates and rotors. Backing plates/rotors need to be from an AWD model. In the front: best to take everything (knuckles. lower control arms, caliper and rotors) to include the control arm bolts.

I once installed struts and shocks from a FWD XT in my 85 wagon. Ride height was the same as the XT.

Nothing changed. just be sure to rotate the engine one full revolution after installing the first belt and make sure you use the correct marks on the flywheel.

If the injectors are leaking they will leak when the engine is running and when it is not because the system is under pressure. Will stop leaking when the pressure in the lines drops down to zero. Pulling the injectors isn't an easy undertaking. Easier way to tell if the injectors are leaking would be to plumb in a pressure gauge. Start the engine and then shut it off and let it sit overnight. If the pressure is way down or zero then you know for sure what the problem is. Someone on the board just recently offered for sale a set of reconditioned injectors. Fuel in the cylinders will wash the oil from the cylinder which really increases bore wear and doesn't do the bearings any good.

Sounds like one or more of the injectors are leaking. Problem is present when the engine is shut off.

Seeing the problem appeared 48 hours after doing some work on the transmission, I would drop the pan and verify the filter at least is still in place before writing off the transmission. $600 for a low mileage transmission is a good deal. Just be careful when you or whomever installs it. The TC often will not fully seat, likes to hang up about 1/4 inch short of being fully seated. When this happens and the transmission is bolted down, the internal oil pump gets destroyed.

Should be two relays on the passenger side strut tower. One for the fan and the other for the AC. Just swap them and see what happens.

It is the only thing in my LSD. Filled the diff with it 6 years ago and no problem.

Located somewhere in the headliner is a plug. Behind the plug is something you can turn that will manually close the sunroof.

An impact wrench and time has yet to fail me. Eventually you will get the bolt to spin and victory is yours.

I won't be surprised to learn this joint was used on a lot of Japanese models. Makes no sense for a car manufacturer to tool up a one-off part. Bet you can find it on a Nissan or Mazda or even on a newer model Subaru.