john in KY

Easy repair and valve damage is not possible.

If the MC is full and the pedal goes to the floor, has to be the MC if there is no air in the system.

Every time I have experienced a collapse radiator hose it was caused by a clogged radiator. New radiator and problem solved. All that green stuff you discovered could suggest the tubes in the radiator are also now full of the same stuff.

Nothing special involved. Just be sure to disconnect the positive battery cable at the battery before anything else.

Not that easy. My understanding is it would have to be from an 85 through early 87 turbo model. In an emergency I think if you retarded the timing by a few degrees and ran high test mixed with some of that octane booster in a can stuff, you could make the trip without the sensor.

Don't know if in the same place but the "relay" for the PW in the XT/XT6 is located under the carpet under the passenger seat.

Thinking you should also use the XT MC.

Replace the muffler on my wagon a few months ago. Took 1/2 day to remove just 2 rusted bolts. If you can get the bolts loose, it is an easy job. Cheap mufflers IMO aren't worth the time installing. A OEM muffler will cost more up front but can easily last 10 years or more.

If you do buy this car, keep us posted on how it turned out. Some one did ask if the car was flooded with salt or fresh water. Knowing which makes a huge difference.

I would just drain it, add a gallon or two of diesel, slosh it around for a while and then refill with the proper gear lube. No way I would run ATF. Hard to believe anything could be wrong if it had been stored with gear lube.

Any chance the balancer pulley is slipping?

A friend of one of my nieces several years ago wanted to buy a flood damaged VW and no one could talk her out of it. The car had electrical problems you couldn't believe. No sooner than one was repaired, something else would fail. On top of that none of her friends would ride in the car in the summer because of the mold and stink. After several years of suffering with the car she finally junked it because it had zero resale value.

Sounds like you popped one of the 4 fusible links. Also, since you replaced the coil, make sure the coil bracket is tight against the body because it has to be well grounded.

Recovering the headliner is easy. Just glue. stick and trim. The only real problem is the headliner needs removed from the car to do the work. Not the end of the world but all the interior side trim needs pulled to drop the headliner. I bet your buddy can do it. Finding the exact material can be a problem so why bother. Go to any upholstery shop and it will have rolls and rolls of headliner material that are of a higher quality than the stock stuff.

In that case, seems an upholstery shop is your only option. Find one, pick out whatever color you want and have them do it. Few years ago I removed the headliner in my XT6 and had a shop recover it. Thinking it came to $50 for the material and labor. Expect to pay a bunch more if you have to pay the shop to remove and reinstall the headliner.

What about that igniter thingee on the firewall?

A cracked tone ring will throw a code.

No. Front differential needs separated from the transmission and then the front of the transmission needs removed. Really need to identify what is producing the noise before taking apart transmissions.

Inside the transmission. Transmissions will also whine when low on ATF. Invest is a stethoscope and maybe you can pinpoint the source of the noise.

Invest in a new radiator and I think you will be very happy. If you do pop for a new radiator, remove the end tanks from the old radiator and you will see why most likely the engine had a blown head gasket.

The clutch is slipping. Probably soaked with oil. Wondering if whomever did the engine work forgot to torque the pressure plate? If the clutch is oil-soaked, you shouldn't smell it when it is slipping. Other hand if not oil-soaked and slipping, that really stinks. No mistaking it.

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Just use light pressure and low drill rpm when starting. The drill bit will self-center itself in the damaged hole. Determine how deep you need to go and mark this depth on the drill bit with tape. You don't want to go too deep or not deep enough. I like to use Perma-Coil over Helicoil only because the installation tool is better IMO.

The majority of my metric tools I use are from Gray. They work for me and I am very satisfied with them. Have yet to break or strip any of them. http://www.graytools.com/

My advice is to buy the best set you can afford. Cheap stuff is just that and over your lifetime you will replace them many times. I am still using tools my father purchased in 1955. You'll also need a 15mm socket to remove the starter.