john in KY

If an automatic, insert the fuse in the FWD holder under the hood and report back.

No, totally different. A turbo EA82 transmission will work but you have to use its CV axles.

Sorry, didn't see that in your original post. When my car had the same problem, problem was the front coil pack had failed.

Swap the coil packs front to rear and I think you will know the problem.

Dump the stock exhaust after the turbo except for the flange that bolts to the turbo. 2 !/4 inch exhaust all the way back from the turbo does make a difference and fits the original exhaust flange perfectly. Ran 12 pounds of boost for 5 years/almost 100k miles in my old turbo wagon with a few modifications and never had a lick of problem with the set up.

Some west coast company (Kenny or something like that) years ago actually manufactured an adapter for the rotary/subaru combination. I even saw one on ebay maybe 8 years ago for sale. That company I think is the same one that still manufactures kits to install Subaru engines in VWs.

More like instantaneously. That splined shaft that runs through the TC, if not fully seated/engaged, will break the internal fluid pump. Been there, done that.

"Pin socket". Something like this: http://www.etoolcart.com/fwbearinglocknutforgmfordtrucks-otc-7090a.aspx

Afm.

XT turbo axles and XT6 axles share the same inner joint so don't buy on spline count alone. What I am saying is a manual FWD transmission from an XT turbo will swap into an XT6 without changing the axles.

Guy down the road has an 85 or 86 turbo Brat. Original owner, drives the crap out of it and will not sell it. I don't think he bought the only good turbo EA81 ever made.

Just to see what happens, the next time to front end is at the correct height, disconnect the front solenoid electrical connectors. If the front struts deflate over time after doing this then we know there is a leak between the front struts and solenoids and/or the front solenoids are leaking.

Use some long bolts with the heads removed. Screw two into the bellhousing and they will act as "guide/alignment pins".

Chance you have moisture and or rust in the system. Remove the front solenoids and take them apart. A good cleaning may solve this problem. Do the same for the tank solenoid.

Did it in my wagon years ago. Problem is you can't fully install the radio because the newer radio will bump up against the heater stuff under the dash. New radios are a lot deeper than your OEM radio. Somewhere I found an "extension" trim piece that made the install work. Can't recall where I got the new trim piece/housing and doubt if it is even made anymore. Isn't this weather nice? Freezing my butt off.

Tailhousing is different. The rear mount is slightly diifferent but you can swap that. Also the Loyale 4eat should have a 3.70 ratio and the Legacy a 3.90 so that will have to be swapped.

Had the same problem last summer. Finally got it out but by then it was junk. There is a connector under the rear seat. New sensor runs around $160.

If a 5 foot length of exhaust pipe doesn't do the trick, 2 minutes with a good small chisel and 3 pound hammer will. I've split more then a few that way. Really don't need to completely cut the nut. When close to being completely through, use your impact and it will either loosen the nut or complete splitting it. Amazed your 3/4 impact couldn't loosen it but that got me to thinking there is a relationship between the maximum torque an impact will produce and air pressure. Thinking a 900 lb-ft gun will not produce anything close to 900 lb-ft if not powered by a very large compressor.

Try contacting some piston manufacturers. just a guess but bet this part is used in multiple different engines.

Getting close to solving this then. New compressor, no air in tank, no air through the strut solenoids means the compressed air is being lost before making it to the tank/strut solenoids. Just about has to be the solenoids are not opening/clogged or there is a massive leak somewhere between the compressor and tank or at the compressor. Soapy water may be your next step.

Just because the compressor runs, this alone doesn't mean it is any good. If you run the compressor with one of the front strut solenoids open and if that strut does not fully inflate in less than 5 seconds, the compressor is worn out. You stated you have run the compressor for 10 minutes, removed the tank solenoid and found no compressed air. If the tank solenoid is functioning and if the compressor is actually putting out compressed air, where did it go?

The tank has a pressure switch and a solenoid. The pressure switch activates the compressor when low tank pressure is detected. Sounds like one or both may need cleaned. You seem to know how to manually operate the compressor relay and how to manually open the strut solenoids. Open a strut solenoid and jump the compressor. that strut should immediately pump up if the strut relay is indeed open and the compressor is producing adequate pressure. The strut solenoids can be taken apart and cleaned. Basically nothing more then a magnet and disk inside of them. There is a system CU under the carpet under the driver's seat. It can go bad but not often. Rust seems to be the only thing to kill them. May want to take a look at it checking the grounding point.

Did you also swap the distributors? Thinking there should be major differences between the 86 and 90 whatever. And a second installing the original intake.

May be low on ATF. Another possibility is a bearing in the alternator failing.