john in KY

Been told this engine has a tendency to burn the exhaust valve in #3 cylinder. If the low compression is in #3, that may be the problem.

Could any of these problems be steering rack related?

Check to see if you reattached the vacuum line that runs from the intake down to the vacuum modulator. If the line is attached and there is oil inside it, the modulator needs replaced. About the only other thing is the governor is bad. may want to do a search for "apple core".

My 95 with 200K runs so well I recently decided to spend $1K for new tires/struts/brakes/timing belts.

I've pulled at least 1/2 dozen engines/transmissions as a unit. Fact is have never pulled either separately.

The LSD takes a special lube. I still have some somewhere. I'll post a PN if I can find it. K0904AA080 PN probably obsolete but Anthony's Subaru in BC was able to get it for me about 8 years ago.

No. Don't use the stop-leak stuff. You'll regret it if you do. If you have a leaking HG, you would know it. Good chance this minor coolant lose is caused by a pinhole leak in one of the hoses. Check the hoses that run to the heater. Will only leak under pressure.

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

Remove the center console to expose a rack of relays below the radio. Don't know their functions but the wires are color-coded so should be easy to identify a cut wire. but first check all the fuses.

Also check to see if the rotor turns when cranking the engine.

Well, no thermostat means the ECU always sees a cold engine and that could explain the fuel-fouled plugs. May also want to change the oil because it has a bunch of gasoline in it by now.

If you start the car and drive a total of 2 miles the battery is probably always in a state of discharge. May want to invest in a battery charger.

What size is the EA86?

I guess if you turned the input shaft by hand and shifted through the gears, that could tell you how many gears the box has.

30-year old radiator may be a contributing factor.

Will also need to swap the differential as the turbo transmission will have a 3.70 ratio.

Photo attached, hopefully. Photo of the stubby shaft with bearing. Left side shows that nut that needs removed and what a pin socket looks like.

Short answer is no. To remove the stubby splined shaft, have to remove that nut on the backside of the knuckle. Right way requires something called a pin socket. Or if you are good with a hammer and punch, you can loosen it that way.

Remove and clean all the PCV hoses and replace the PCV valve and you should be good to go.

That box next to the battery contains the 4 fusible links. Test connector should be close to the brake MC. If I am reading what you posted correctly, you have fuel flow. Have you checked for spark? Fuse box should have one marked IGN. Good idea to check that one. Remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor turns while cranking the engine.

If you remove the rear driveshaft the car can be moved using a tow dolly.

Did the original tires survive the trip?

I would think so. Since not making that horrible screeching noise, still have some service life.

Ten-year old tires that have been flat will have flat spots you won't believe. Don't plan on them making that 120 mile trip.

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