john in KY

There is one sensor at the base of the steering wheel column . Thinking for this to work, you will have to use the XT6 steering column.

Previous owner made a mistake and installed both timing belts straight up. Last year inherited a car that sat for almost 20 years in a garage. Had to replace thee entire fuel system and radiator but after that, engine fired right up.

Cracked.

Freeze plugs are only there to remove the sand after the block is poured. Just an urban myth "freeze" plugs are there to prevent the block from cracking.

Bench bleed the MC before installing. E-brake shoes, if vehicle has 4WDB, is easy to adjust once the rotor is removed. If you have too much free play in the cable, there is an adjustment behind the E-brake handle. Have to remove the center console to get to it.

Red dust probably came from the failing alternator.

Take the car for a short ride and stop every 1/2 mile and check each wheel for heat build up. Just use your hand. If just one wheel is hot, then the problem is that wheel. If all 4 wheels are hot, I would suspect the master cylinder. Plan on replacing all the brake fluid after the problem is found and repaired because by now it is "cooked".

May want to take a hard look at the wiring harness. Read somewhere the 4EAT was completely redesigned somewhere in the late 1990s. Would be a real PITA to discover after doing the swap the wiring harnesses didn't match.

Probably just got the wires out of phase. Rotor must point at the terminal for #1 cylinder when that cylinder is on the compression stroke and the engine at TDC.

Mitsubishi for example during the 90s used a lot of radios that required a security code. Radio would not turn on without the proper security code. Subaru never used feature this in the 90s.

Fifth, we appreciated the benefit of having the dealer handle all the paperwork and other requirements. When you buy a car in Japan, you must pay various fees. In addition to taxes, you must pay for insurance and a mandatory inspection (called "Sha'ken"). You should get additional insurance to adequately cover your liability in case of an accident. Our dealer handled all of this, so after some faxing back and forth and about a week of waiting, we showed up with the money and picked up the car. Our dealer came with very high recommendations, or we wouldn't have been so trusting. In case you are interested, the name of the dealers is "Kelly's" and they are located next to Yokota Airforce Bases (and they speak English very well there). Sixth, and last, "Sha'ken" (mentioned just above) must be paid every two years on older cars. The amount of Sha'ken goes up depending on the size, engine size and age of the vehicle. During the Sha'ken process certain repairs must be made, and it can get very expensive. On the other hand, it helps insure that your vehicle is well maintained, so you're much less likely to have it breakdown in between. However, the fact is that as cars get older, Sha'ken becomes more and more expensive. Eventually, if the car stops running well or reaches a certain age (even though it's still a good car), you may have to pay a fee just to get rid of it. This is the reason why there are so few older cars in Japan. When cars hit about 60,000 kilometers (maybe 40,000 miles), people start to get rid of them. You'll find very few cars on the road with more than 100,000 kilometers (66,000 miles). Many of these used cars are shipped to other countries, like Australia and New Zealand, where people love the endless supply of cheap, slightly used cars from Japan.

Pressure sender.

What then would you use to identify black/red?

Gouge was caused by the sheared roll pin. Problem is the CV axle you have is the wrong one.

Don't know this for certain but I think there is an inner and outer bearing with a sleeve between them. the sleeve can move around in the bore and if it is out of alignment with the bearings, there is no way the axle will slide through the knuckle.

Payment was sent. Problem turned out to be Paul got one letter in my email address wrong and payment went who knows where.

I doubt it. Somewhere the coolant is mixing with the oil. Could be at a head gasket or an intake gasket.

Creamy brown oil always indicates an oil-coolant mixture. Oil floats on water. You could have a couple of qts of water in the oil pan. Remove drain plug and note what flows out.

My guess one side is the voltage and the other returns the crank signal to the ECU. Check each individually. Checked a FSM for an 88 XT but figure distributor wiring is probably the same. If your distributor has a 4-wire connector, the BR wire goes to ground. Shouldn't be difficult to check with a DVM. The other 3 wires run back to the ECU. Have no idea how to check them. Just ground the negative probe to the car body when searching for the hot wire. To check the ground wire, and do this only if one of the 4 wires is BR in color, clip one side of the DVM to the positive battery terminal and the other side to the wire being checked.

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm

Check to see if any of the fuses failed. If all the fuses are good, seems to me wherever the short is it has to be in a circuit not fuse-protected. Thinking headlights? Do you need anymore fusible links? I probably have some I could mail you.

Beginning to look more and more like the distributor is not getting a 12 volt signal. Mentioned this once before. Key in run position. Unplug the distributor and check the car-side of the harness for 12 volts. The distributor requires 12 volts for it to work.

Better have some serious liability insurance.

Don't think you have a fuel shutoff problem because I ran a turbo wagon at 12 pounds for years and never experienced a fuel cut. Sounds like your turbo has a "whine". The only time the one on my wagon made a whine was pulling a steep grade, loaded and doing around 70mph. I wonder if your turbo could be spinning too fast for some reason. Are you sure the turbo is boosting around 5 pounds? Just may be well above or well below. Not difficult to splice in a boost gauge and know for sure.

Don't know if this applies to the 88 model but on my 85 turbo there was something on top of the thermostat housing that controlled the fast idle.