john in KY

oops. John

Definitely pull both heads. If one valve seized from sitting, trust me others will also seize in short order. Had this problem with an old Mopar I inherited that had sat for almost 20 years. The more I drove it, the worse it got. When I found the 5 bent push rods, I knew what the problem was. As far as I know, all MPFI injectors across the years are exactly the same.

Can't do the intake swap without also doing a head swap. That single port /dual port thing.

Stock size is 205/75. Link shows the two sizes are almost identical. http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit

Part of the problem to me sounds like a failing AFM.

Getting the distributor right can be a real problem. Gears are cut at an angle and this makes the rotor jump forward when installing. Probably need to have the rotor pointing 1/2 between cylinders 1 and 3 when installing it. When all the way down, rotor should be pointing to #1 cylinder. From experience I know if the distributor is just one gear tooth off, no way the engine can be timed.

Those "brown chunks" sound to me like someone added some sort of stop leak product to the system. A good/new radiator plus "stop leak" usually just ends up yielding a bad radiator.

I would think worn valve guides and or worn valve seals would be the cause of the white smoke. Check for white smoke when doing this little test. Take the car out on the highway and get up to a good speed. Then remove foot from gas pedal and allow the car to coast. If there appears a cloud of white smoke behind the car, almost a given oil is being pulled into the combustion chambers.

I would strongly suspect the radiator. The few times I have experienced a collapse top hose along with a cold radiator, it has always been a clogged radiator.

Should be ign timing marks on the harmonic balancer. Only interested in the TDC mark. May or may not be correct because the XT6 balancer is a two-piece affair and the outer ring tends to slip over time. Verify the TDC mark is still correct. Guessing will have to use a dial indicator down #1 cylinder. Once you have ascertain where TDC is on the balancer, remove it and move 90 degrees from the TDC mark. 90 degrees from TDC puts the piston 1/2 down the bore. Don't know if you have to make the new mark left or right of the TDC mark but whichever side is important. If the original TDC mark on the balancer does not line up with the pointer on the timing belt cover, you'll have to rig up a new pointer.

There is one sensor at the base of the steering wheel column . Thinking for this to work, you will have to use the XT6 steering column.

Previous owner made a mistake and installed both timing belts straight up. Last year inherited a car that sat for almost 20 years in a garage. Had to replace thee entire fuel system and radiator but after that, engine fired right up.

Cracked.

Freeze plugs are only there to remove the sand after the block is poured. Just an urban myth "freeze" plugs are there to prevent the block from cracking.

Bench bleed the MC before installing. E-brake shoes, if vehicle has 4WDB, is easy to adjust once the rotor is removed. If you have too much free play in the cable, there is an adjustment behind the E-brake handle. Have to remove the center console to get to it.

Red dust probably came from the failing alternator.

Take the car for a short ride and stop every 1/2 mile and check each wheel for heat build up. Just use your hand. If just one wheel is hot, then the problem is that wheel. If all 4 wheels are hot, I would suspect the master cylinder. Plan on replacing all the brake fluid after the problem is found and repaired because by now it is "cooked".

May want to take a hard look at the wiring harness. Read somewhere the 4EAT was completely redesigned somewhere in the late 1990s. Would be a real PITA to discover after doing the swap the wiring harnesses didn't match.

Probably just got the wires out of phase. Rotor must point at the terminal for #1 cylinder when that cylinder is on the compression stroke and the engine at TDC.

Mitsubishi for example during the 90s used a lot of radios that required a security code. Radio would not turn on without the proper security code. Subaru never used feature this in the 90s.

Fifth, we appreciated the benefit of having the dealer handle all the paperwork and other requirements. When you buy a car in Japan, you must pay various fees. In addition to taxes, you must pay for insurance and a mandatory inspection (called "Sha'ken"). You should get additional insurance to adequately cover your liability in case of an accident. Our dealer handled all of this, so after some faxing back and forth and about a week of waiting, we showed up with the money and picked up the car. Our dealer came with very high recommendations, or we wouldn't have been so trusting. In case you are interested, the name of the dealers is "Kelly's" and they are located next to Yokota Airforce Bases (and they speak English very well there). Sixth, and last, "Sha'ken" (mentioned just above) must be paid every two years on older cars. The amount of Sha'ken goes up depending on the size, engine size and age of the vehicle. During the Sha'ken process certain repairs must be made, and it can get very expensive. On the other hand, it helps insure that your vehicle is well maintained, so you're much less likely to have it breakdown in between. However, the fact is that as cars get older, Sha'ken becomes more and more expensive. Eventually, if the car stops running well or reaches a certain age (even though it's still a good car), you may have to pay a fee just to get rid of it. This is the reason why there are so few older cars in Japan. When cars hit about 60,000 kilometers (maybe 40,000 miles), people start to get rid of them. You'll find very few cars on the road with more than 100,000 kilometers (66,000 miles). Many of these used cars are shipped to other countries, like Australia and New Zealand, where people love the endless supply of cheap, slightly used cars from Japan.

Pressure sender.

What then would you use to identify black/red?

Gouge was caused by the sheared roll pin. Problem is the CV axle you have is the wrong one.

Don't know this for certain but I think there is an inner and outer bearing with a sleeve between them. the sleeve can move around in the bore and if it is out of alignment with the bearings, there is no way the axle will slide through the knuckle.