john in KY

Crank angle sensor inside the distributor but you stated that was swapped. Really need to check the coil for 12 volts on the positive side. This narrows down the possibilities. Also if you would test for 12 volts in the ignition system at the key switch when key is in the run/start position this will also help.

Check for current flow across the IGN fuse. Unplug the IGN switch and start jumping terminals in the plug and see what happens. Would really help if you had a diagram for the ignition circuits. Probably won't do any good to check for voltage at the coil because I doubt if you have any there. Does the fuel pump kick in for a few seconds when the key is first turned? Wonder what would happen if you ran a wire from the battery directly to the positive side of the coil? Don't know if the GL has this feature but the XT and XT6s have something screwed to the back of the ignition switch. Screw loosens and that causes a starting problem. Worth checking.

Not the coil but the coil bracket. Attached to the bracket is a power amplifier or something like it. It is riveted to the coil bracket and uses the bracket for a ground. Turn the key to start and there should be 12 volts on the positive side of the coil. IGN fuse should have 12 volts across it with the key on. A simple test light works for both tests.

Ever check the IGN fuse? Check to see if voltage is flowing across the fuse. No voltage then suspect IGN switch. Also the coil bracket has to be well grounded. Could also check for voltage at the coil. Slim chance the coil wires got crossed.

That is because the rotor has a ridge right on the outer edge. You need to compress the pads just a bit for the pads to clear the rotor. Use a large screwdriver. When you get to the point of installing the new pads, the caliper piston has to be turned in. Trying to compress it won't work.

Gary, Last axle I bought was at least 10 years ago. Probably have rebooted 20 or more axles over the years. Wagon with 210K miles eg still has the original axles. Anyways, use diesel to clean the joints. Make sure you install the clamps on the axle shaft before installing the boots. The packet of new grease is all you need. I just pack it in there and yet to have a problem. You'll need a tool to secure the clamps. At least 3 different types of clamps so good idea to take one of the new clamps to NAPA and match the tool to the clamp. Once the diesel does it's job, really not a messy job. The two end clamps can be a problem to install depending on what type clamp came with the kit. But if you have the type of clamp I am thinking about, it will fit. Just have to work at it. edit: Forgot to mention the two internal snap rings. The big one can be rolled out with a screwdriver. The little guy requires a snap ring removal tool.

Ever solve the problem?

Happens all the time. Clearances between bearing shell and journal just increases to the point the pump can't maintain pressure. Think garden hose with finger over the end and same hose with no finger. Lots of pressure one way and very little the other. But this engine has hydraulics. If the engine isn't ticking like mad then it has enough oil pressure. Been driving an XT6 for 10 years that shows zero pressure (hot) and maybe 20 pounds cruising. Subaru gauges can be way off.

Can you post a photo of the damage? My guess is the crankshaft can be saved as long as at least some of the keyway is still there. My concern is someone sees an opportunity to make a bunch of money off of you.

Drop the pan and replace the ATF temperature sensor.

Just check the back of the passenger-side head. The holes used to mount the turbo should be there, just not threaded. Also the provision for the turbo oil-return line should be there but will need drilled.

Cracks between the valves are very common and are to be expected/ignored. Subaru refers to them as "bridging cracks". But do look for a crack up in the port runner. A crack there and time for another head. The heads used on the XT and any model with a turbo are the same. Engine has to be the MPFI type.

The CAS is indeed located inside the distributor. Very slim chance I may still have an 88 XT distributor. Have to look around.

Replace the radiator with a new one. I put 250K miles on the same car.

Almost sure my old 85 turbo had two vacuum lines.

PM me if you decide to replace the manifold.

Swapping the front engine cradle is suprising easy. Done it before and not a problem. Don't bother swapping some of the harness. Swap all of it. Once the dash and LF fender is removed, plug and play. You'll need the fuel sender from the turbo/digital car if you want the gas guage to work. Don't use the JDM intake. Again, don't even try to use the JDM intake.

Once owned the exact same model. Served me well for the 5 years I had it. My advice is to install a new radiator. The transmission is the fairly rare 4EAT. I would be on the lookout for a spare. 88 and newer XTs and the XT6 used that transmission and it was an option I believe in the 88/89 GL-10 models. Would be nice to have on stashed away should yours ever fails. I know mine did and it took months to find a replacement.

Could just leave it and disconnect the cables under the parking brake lever.

The diameter and width should be cast into the wheel somewhere.

Or just use your hand. Compare one side to the other. If the hub is hot to the touch, time for a new bearing.

Can't believe everyone has missed the obvious: the 3 AT won't bolt to the EJ series engine.

The 1990 Loyale wirh the turbo was AWD.

With those voltage spikes it doesn't take long to cook the battery. May want to pop a cap and check it.