john in KY

One of the camshafts could have seized.

Engine needs lots of air to idle at 3000. If the throttle plate is still in the closed position with the high idle, air has to be coming from somewhere else.

I would inspect the front CV axles and driveshaft as possible problem areas. Not too often a transmission goes bang, quits working and then begins to work again.

To make 150 HP on a tired, EA82T with mileage on it, you need to increase the boost - but the engine will last about 5 to 15 thousand miles. Maybe less. It happens every single time someone does it. That last part just isn't true. Ran 12 pounds for 5 years and 100k miles. Car was still running around town two years after I sold it. Kids driving it finally ripped out the front differential and that is what finally killed it.

Check that fuse/relay panel next to the battery. Something in there that will also cause this problem.

[quote It could be that they have left the flexiplate bolts loose in the crank or the torque converter bolts loose. That was my guess when I read the first post. Many year ago I bought a used Fairlane that had a new engine installed. Few months later I swore I had engine knock. Eventually discovered the flex plate bolts came loose. As for "the problem was created because the engine ran hot one time" explanation, how many cases of this happening have you ever heard of? Wish I had a dollar for ever time I overheated an engine. None ever needed replacement afterwards.

I see it is a turbo. Check the rear for a LSD.

Get a used low-mileage one from a wrecking yard for around $100. Bet one from a 2009 is the same.

My 95 LS came stock with the 15"wheels.

Stripped a few of these over the years. Original problem probably a failed relay. Relay is behind the passenger side panel in the back seat area. Real pita to get to because the complete back seat has to come out and those plastic panels can be a bear to pull without breaking. Just throwing this out there if you ever feel a need to truly fix the problem.

Just restrict the flow. Tuned using a fuel pressure gauge. Also used a different FPR that I recall was rated at 55 pounds. Restricted the return flow with the clamp and ended up with 70 lbs under boost. That and a few other mods and the old wagon ran as well if not better than my XT6. Edit: Should mention imo any modification to the EA82T is a waste of time/money unless first the radiator is replaced with a new unit.

Or use a hose clamp on the return line. I ran 12 pounds of boost for 3 years in my turbo wagon and then sold the car. New owner got 2 more years out of it before the grandchildren tore out the front differential.

How that could be possible is a mystery to me. Not flaming you, just can't imagine how that could be possible.

Power booster could be bad or the check valve. Just disconnect the vacuum hose at the booster, plug it and see if the idle improves. Don't drive the car when doing this.

Had the oil changed once in Alaska. Next time I went to do it myself. Tried every tool I had to include a 24" pipe wrench I couldn't loosen it. Took car back to the shop that last changed the oil and got the "can't be anything we did" runaround. Took car to another shop. left it and somehow they got it out. Have no idea how.

Whatever the problem is, it isn't the TPS. Don't mess with it. No engine can "rev excessively" without an air supply. You have an air leak somewhere. Anything different with the brakes? Could be a leaking brake booster.

Just did a wheel bearing replacement last month. Plate retained by 4 bolts. Bolts can be removed without removing the parking brake stuff. Parking brake shoes can be repositioned enough to get to the bolts. Problem is the hub has to be pulled. No getting around this. My wheel bearing replacement failed and I ended up just using a complete knuckle assembly from a 98 Outback. Learned that the ABS sensor are different. My wagon is a 95. Had to use the 95 sensor because the 98 had a different plug.

Suspect the only difference is the diameter of the rotor. Are you sure those threaded holes aren't there. If not, my guess is the rotors somewhere in the past where changed with non OEM stuff.

There are 2 pumps possible, a short one and a tall one. Make sure you install the correct one. Wrong one installed and the pulleys will not line up.

Oil somehow has to get up to the valvetrain. Just wondering if when the HG was replaced, maybe an oil hole got plugged or something.

Bench bleed it or just disconnect the line at the cylinder and let it drip. Will take hours and you'll have the watch the MC so it doesn't run dry but eventually gravity will expell the air. Slave cylinders are almost always a pita to bleed.

Try cleaning it. Also check the coolant temperature sensor.

As I understand, one of the front wheels is locking up. Not a differential problem. If the diff failed, there would be no power to that axle. Has to be a wheel bearing or caliper problem. Also my understanding is it is hard on the CV axles when the car is on jackstands and in gear.

You'll need the disc brake backing plate to mount the caliper. Only way the backing plate comes off is first the hub has to be pulled. Plus I doubt if the drum brake backing plate has an hole for the ABS sensor. Could be wrong so look closely at both backing plates.

Problem is to convert one to the other, you have to pull the hub. When the hub is pulled, half of the bearing will come with it. Sort of back to square one. Still have to install a bearing.