john in KY

There all in that range. It is the XT6 that uses the 14.7 ohm injectors. May want to source some European XT turbo injectors. Don't know what they flow but do know different from those used in the North American version. Thinking they have brown tops. Euro spec XT turbo produced something like 135 hp.

If he hot wires the positive side of the coil this will backfeed the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump will run and the coil will be hot. Engine just may start. Offered to email you an ECU pinout diagram but appears you don't want it.

Fuse #11 goes hot when the key is either in the RUN or START position. This circuit includes the fuel pump relay and the ign coil. If the fuse is good maybe the problem is in the Ign SW. Go in the trunk and unplug the ECU. Find the single red wire and test for flow. It is suppose to be always hot. PM your email address. I have an ECU pinout diagram in PDF format that I can't for reasons unknown to me cut and paste. (Mac OSX) Thinking I can send it via email. John

Check the top mounts orientation. Chance a previous owner installed new struts and installed one or both backwards. Mounts should have an arrow showing which way out.

Backing plate retained by 4 bolts. Problem here to completely remove it, the hub has to be pulled. Every time I pulled the hub part of the bearing came with it.

Few years ago I was 100 miles from the house and lost the battery because the alternator failed. Wife came to rescue me with jumper cables. I jumped off her battery for about 20" and drove home with no problem. Edit: Doesn't the belt that drives the alternator also power other things like the water pump?

Syringe is what I use. Little hole at the top.

Seal one side of the roll pin hole with a golf T. From other side, fill hole with Kroil penetrating oil. After a few days soaking, it will come off.

I recently replaced a rear wheel bearing in a Legacy. Same part you have. Repair failed. What I ended doing was just replacing the entire knuckle with a low-mileage used one. I went through 3 bearings and 3 sets of seals before going used. Still haven't figured out what went wrong with the "repairs" but all 3 bearings ran hot after being installed. Guessing something wrong with the knuckle.

After first belt installed, make sure you rotate the engine one full revolution before installing the second belt.

It is the fuel pressure regulator that determines what pressure the pump works at. The MPFI system runs around 40psi but again it is the FPR, not the pump, that sets the pressure output.

Just a guess but if you are not the original owner I'd guess someone somewhere in the past dumped some Stop Leak or whatever in the radiator.

Only one: shaft presses against the internal oil pump and destroys it. No pump=no ATF circulating=no movement. Been there, done that.

Problem is not the speed sensor. Speedometer works off a sensor on the differential. Had the same problem in my 95. My solution was to just swap out the instrument cluster. A new sensor didn't solve anything.

If you have fuel and good spark, just about has to be a timing problem. How old are the timing belts? Old belts have been known to loose teeth before breaking.

Just looked at all your codes and all seem to point to a lean fuel condition. If you just want to throw some parts at the problem, start with a new fuel filter and air filter. Clean the A/F meter. Find out what is wrong with the EGR valve. A used A/F meter and EGR at a pull-a-part yard will probably set you back $15.

Check the link for location and insure none of the 3 test connectors are connected. You never know. Also includes a list of what the trouble codes indicate. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Had hoses collapse on my twice. Both times the cause was a clogged radiator.

How difficult would it be to "flop" the exhaust manifold? Turbo then would be positioned in the area where the alternator is now.

Jim Dandy Motor.

Taking the fronts apart isn't difficult. I've been known to use nothing more then a spare tire when pulling parts in a wrecking yard. Lay strut on ground, cover coil spring with the spare tire, stand on tire and unscrew that top nut. The strut will shot out the bottom of the coil spring. Crude but it works.

Gary, I've done more than a few of these. Rear springs are easy to compress but the fronts are real bears. Just notl enough (have enough coils) to grab onto. Just did all 4 on the wagon. Rears I did myself. The fronts I took to a local shop and had them done there. The top perch or cup or whatever you want to call it will have something to indicate this side out. Look for an arrow or dot or something. Other than that, really no way to screw it up. Never trust whatever coil compressor you end up using. Good chance that spring could kill you if it unloads and whacks you in the forehead.

Seems thin to me. Just stop at any auto parts store and ask to see just about any car brake shoe to get an idea of the general thickness. Take a look at the wheel cylinders. Probably a good idea to just replace them.

To remove the radio, first remove the cup holder. Then remove the ash tray. Directly above the ash tray there are two screws that also have to be removed. Bezel will then pop free. Been awhile but good chance you'll also have to pull the plastic around the gear shift.

I have some turbo injectors if you ever decide to replace.