john in KY

Not a great photo but the blue Sharpie is pointing at the CTS. Located in the coolant crossover pipe.

Just to the right of the ECU look for a green plug and a black plug. Connect the green plug to set the timing. After setting the timing make sure both the green and black plugs are unplugged. Fast idle probably nothing more than a dirty coolant temperature sensor (CTS). Should be located somewhere on the intake manifold over on the MC side. Not to be confused with the temperature sensor for the in dash gauge.

Did you use the green connector next to the ECU when you adjusted the ign timing?

Thinking a 1st generation FWD Impreza axle works here.

Replace the radiator with new and "burp" the coolant system and you should be fine.

This is an exercise in futility if I understand the OP. Car now has EA82T engine minus the turbo. I once drove such a combination. Had just enough power on the flat to move. Doubt if it could have made it up even a small hill.

Made some progress before quitting for the nights. Old bearing is out and new installed. Pulling the old bearing turned out to be easy once i figured out the bearing had to come out the front and not the back. Two hours wasted there. Just need to install the hub and the oil seals and that side will be finished. I found and saved that pdf file earlier today. Thanks anyways for the offer. John

When the wife had the problem, I bought 2 used ones at the local yard. Both worked/solved the problem for a few weeks but problem returned. Got a new one about 3 weeks ago and the problem has not returned.

Hub tamer just arrived. At this point in time having no luck with it at all. Looking for photos of it in use on the web. Half of the outboard bearing came out with the hub. The rest is still stuck inside the knuckle. I removed that outer snap ring. Not sure which way the remaining bearing inside the knuckle needs to be move the remove it.

May want to invest in the chime module. Directly behind the fuse panel. Access gained by removing the panel on the left side of the center console. Puppy runs around $45 at the dealer. About the size of a deck of cards. Could be green, brown or orange.

Working on replacing the rear wheel bearing in my 95 wagon. New seals arrived today and I have no idea which is which. One is the outer, another the inner and the last goes in between. Would be nice if Subaru identified them as such but no luck. Numbers are 28015AA090, AA100 and AA110. My hat is off to everyone that in the past has reported "only took me 2 hours to replace mine". Been working on this for days. just one problem after another.

Find out if equipped with an anti-theft alarm. Wife's 99 recently had some of your problems. No start/lose of radio presets/gauge needles flopping around. Turned out the chime module was the problem. Go figure. Seems most of the interior electricity flows through it before anything else. located on the left side of the center console right next to your right leg. Hope this link sticks. http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135171&highlight=car%20won%27t%20start

The arrow is pointing I believe to the nut used on that now missing long alternator bolt. You can't adjust either of the pulley without first loosing the nut located in the center of the pulley.

When I went and replaced the front suspension in my XT6, I initially went with axles and hubs from a Legacy turbo model. The XT6 cv axles won't seat fully in the turbo knuckles because the inner grease seal was a tad too small. Recall I took the XT6 axles to a machine shop and had them turned to same diameter of turbo stuff. Easy way is to check to see if the XT6 and the Legacy share the same inner grease seal.

Check around under the hood/bonnet for a sticker. Often times the manufacture will put one there with tune up specs. Another option, at least here in the States, is to go to the local library and request the factory service manual for this model. The librarian will contact other libraries until the manual is found. May take a week or more.

FPR failed?

There is an 89 FWD turbo wagon for sale locally that I may be interested in. Emailed the seller and he informed me it has the 3-speed automatic which needs replaced. Just doesn't sound right to me. Thinking starting in 88 all the turbo models received the 4EAT. Is the seller correct?

Good chance there is still one bolt you have missed. I would pull the timing belt cover. If you already have the new pump, count the mounting holes and verify you have removed the same number from the attached pump. Also, there is a difference between turbo and NA pumps so make sure you have the right one. Wrong pump and the drive belts will not line up.

Saw this on CL. Don't know much about the newer stuff and thought maybe someone on the forum could give this guy some good advice. I advised him to join this forum but that's as far as I plan to take it. http://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/1236724671.html

Also a fuse under the hood in a box next to the battery. Always good to check for a broken timing belt.

My 95 dd this a few years back and it does not have a cable-driven speedometer. Think the problem was a failing VSI but I just replaced the instrument cluster. Found a low mileage one from a 98 and haven't had the problem since.

Weak coil/bad plug wires can cause this problem.

Grossly retarded timing and/or a clogged exhaust will cause this. 99 is too new for me to know much about but seems to me there must be some way to adjust the ignition timing.

Don't think the Mustang and Fairlane shared that many parts. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~PartSort~A0~~~~~A20~A1