john in KY

Before you pull the pin, do you position the tensioner all the way it will go to the left? Permacoil IMO is easier to work with than Helicoil. Holes are either 8x1.25 or 10x1.25 depending on which you strip out.

A new radiator has the potential of solving a lot of current and future problems. I've opened up a few 20-year old Subaru radiators and all were at least 70% clogged.

"Only when wet". Get another coil pack from a local wrecking yard.

"Sweet smell" usually indicates coolant in the exhaust. Could be just left over stuff from the engine swap.

I like the wrecking yard solution. Just pull the entire combination switch and snatch the headlight relays just in case. Basically all you need is a screwdriver, steering wheel puller and a socket to fit the wheel nut. My guess is either the combination switch has partially failed, not completing the ground, or the relay has failed.

Locate the dryer. Should be on the passenger side of engine bay. Follow the hard line going in the direction of the radiator and you will find the pressure switch. Can't be more than 10 inches from the dryer.

Remember there is a left and right caliper. Don't swap sides if you ever want to bleed the brakes.

Fair chance the calipers won't rotate is because the pads are hanging up on that ridge on the rotor.

Just did my 95. The mark on the crankshaft gear is a vertical slash on the back of the gear. The arrow, not used, is more or less in the 3:00 position in the photo. I had to remove the passenger side camshaft sprocket to install the new belt.

Just something I made in about 15". Section of exhaust tubing. Smashed one end with a hammer. Two holes for bolts to catch inside the sprocket and one 1" hole for the socket. Crude but works.

Thing is the original alternator has only 2 terminal. All alternators I am familiar with have an "I" and "S" terminal. As long as your wires that went to these 2 terminals also get attached to the I and S terminals on the new alternator, no problem.

http://www.northstate.com/champion/index.html You can always "shorten" a jobber length bit with a hammer. Gary turned me on to this. Clamp bit in vice and whack the shank with the hammer. Drill will snap and you end up with a stubby bit. I won't use a bit that "was close" in size. Just a tad too small and the insert won't install. Tad too large and the insert won't hold.

Goggle "screw machine bit".

Once drove an XT turbo that someone had removed the turbo. Very very little power. You aren't going to like the EA82T minus its turbo.

Vacuum line near the coil could be for the distributor. Know my 85 turbo had 2 such lines and I'm thinking my 90 turbo had one. What I am thinking if your distributor doesn't have a vacuum cannister then maybe the distributor has been replaced with a wrong one. Those connectors are just test connectors.

The 90 through 94 Legacy used one type of alternator and then changed to something different in 95. The old style should be difficult to mine whereas the newer should be easy. I like to think I am also frugal. If this was my problem, I would just visit the local wrecking yard and get an alternator and its plug from a 98 or 99 whatever.

Unless you are really attached to this alternator, very easy to replace with a 95 and newer by just changing the plug.

Not saying the HG hasn't failed but the way you have described it would make it a rare failure. Without seeing the leak I would first suspect a leaking intake manifold gasket or one of the heater hoses.

Car sat for 18 months with fuel in the injectors. Injectors now probably in poor shape.

I wonder where all that gasoline came from. Thinking the most that could have leaked into the engine would be whatever the line from the pump to filter could hold. Wonder if the FPR ruptured?

Not difficult to replace the combo switch. Just requires pulling the steering wheel but I'd check things like blown fuses/bulbs before going that route. Plenty of posts explaining how to reseal the oil pump. Many owners do it when replacing the timing belts. All that oil leakage is probably originating from bad seals rather than the oil pump. If the "lifters" are not clattering, then the oil pump is not the source of the leakage. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

There is a small line that runs under the manifold in that region. If you are lucky, one of the heater hoses has developed a small leak. Probably not a good idea to be driving the car any distance since the leak now is large enough to form a puddle. Thing is probably close to bursting. Hope you know how to "burp" the system after you repair the problem. An air pocket is not your friend.

Just throwing out a guess but my guess is that coolant line that feeds the turbo.

New heads installed means he distributor was pulled. You just need to focus on the ignition timing. Easy to get it off.