john in KY

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-SUBARU-XT-TURBO-ENGINE-USED-1-8L-P170J_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ010QQitemZ200301234565QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Damaged hub splines? Loose CV axle nut? Loose brake caliper?

Didn't cross the fuel lines when you swapped the intakes?

Leave the ball joint attached to the hub. Remove the nut at the bottom. Rent a "pickle fork" at Autozone and a big hammer. Insert pickle fork between the ball joint and control arm and wail (?) away with the hammer. Remove now loose ball joint from hub and replace with a new one. Really not difficult at all. edit: You did remember to reinstall that clinch bolt when you replaced the axles?

Bet it ends up with the coil pack as being the problem.

Check condition of fusible links near the battery. You will loose spark if the coil bracket is loose. May want to remove it, clean the contact points and make sure the mounting screws are tight. Thinking that jar from the speed bump loosen something.

The e45 is the offset. Pretty sure the SVX came stock with 16" wheels. First 2 wheels could be from a Pontiac. Wheels that fit the SVX will not fit a Legacy because the bolt pattern is larger. Something like 114.3 for the SVX and 100 for the Legacy.

That bent rod has a good amount of adjustibility. Just make sure the shifter is in sync with the transmission. By this I mean when eg the shifter indicates D, the transmission is in D and not say R.

Your problem sounds exactly what I experienced a few weeks ago except never got a trouble code. Turned out to be a short in the coil pack.

Could explain both problems. The exhaust gases have to do somewhere.

Clogged muffler?

Make sure you bench bleed it before installing.

I checked Rockauto and there the 607008 is listed for the manual transmission and 607009 fits the automatic so you are correct.

If just the rear housing is cracked, which usually is the case, it can be fairly easily replaced. Much easier than replacing the transmission.

13 years old.

Real longshot but check to make sure the transmission wiring harness is all connected. Sort of between the firewall and the backside of engine. Real good chance it was unplugged when the HG were done.

Saw an 84 GL wagon there today. That soft yellow color. Bumpers, grill, doors looked very good. Also noticed the tan dash was without cracks. May post a photo later of the dash. Anyone locally interested go to row 4 or 5 and then walk back to the fence. It is the last car in one of those rows. Too far away for me to pull parts.

I have one I just recently pulled from an AWD XT6. PM if inereseted. John

Not familiar with the McIntosh system but do know the amp has to be powered for there to be sound. Could unplug it and look for 12 volts and there should be an inline fuse somewhere for the amp.

Back in 68 a friend floated the valve train at 140 mph in his 3-week old Dodge Charger RT. Dealer pulled the heads and just installed new valves. The pistons had deep indentations but after the new valves were installed, that didn't seem to make any difference.

If it worked fine until the cable was replaced then cable not adjusted or the fork cracked.

Just recently stripped an XT6 and pulled the tank. Real pita because the rear differential has to be dropped. Also there are a lot of lines associated with the tank which didn't concern me since I was only after the tank. But maybe you have a FWD which will make the process easier. Not the end of the world but give yourself at least 1/2 day.

Doubt if the shaft sheared. Any possibility the pulley is freewheeling on the shaft? If you remove the reservoir cap I would think you can see the power steering fluid circulating, if the pump is working. Has to be some sort of control block in the rack. Maybe it has failed.

The compressors are different.