john in KY

Problem you will run into is the depth of the radio. Used a radio from a 3000GT (Mitsubishi) in my old Loyale for several years but had to find "spacers" to mount it. just can't flush mount just about any factory radio because whatever you use will hit the duct work in the dash.

Pull the vacuum line to the FPR the next time you get it run and check for a leak. Also verify with your ear all the injectors are at least clicking.

Pull and plug the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster and see if the engine idles differently. A long shot but you never know.

I just happen to have a set of six from my old turbo days. edit: Look at this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-Turbo-Fuel-Injectors-BENZ_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQihZ009QQitemZ190231308762QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Could be wrong but the letters identify the individual plugs and the numbers identify which pin in the plug. For example, say you had a plug with 4 pins/wires. Each wire/pin could be identified as A1 A2, A3 and A4. Only real concern is first identiying if the individaul pins are numbered left to right or right to left.

Injectors from a 260Z Nissan are quite an upgrade for the EA82T. John

I can recall 10 to 12 years ago the windshield for the XT6 would set you back $1200. And the tint isn't external. Sort of makes everything look slightly brown viewed from inside the car.

Always been my understanding all the XT6s got the gold tint and only the XT6s. XTs got something else.

I did the 4EAT conversion once. Only real problem was swapping the internal wiring harness which was a real pita. Never did the 3-speed conversion but it has no electronics and should be a very easy conversion.

As for the Loyale models, only the 1990 Loyale turbo option got the 4EAT. 1988 and newer XTs came with it and 88/89 GL turbo wagons also got it. The original poster doesn't have one of these models so both transmissions are the 3-speed variety. No problem swapping one for the other.

If you only hear that clicking sound when the car is in motion, suspect the CV axle you repaired.

Don't know if all are the same but doubt it since there are 2 types of water pumps...short and long. I should have a pump from an 85 XT turbo around here somewhere if you can't find one for the 87. If your 87 is the turbo model then it should work. John

I still think you have an AFM problem. PM Gary as he knows which ECUs swap.

The XT6 and Legacy both use the same front wheel bearings. As for the front CV axles, the XT6 axles are actually significantly larger then the Legacy turbo axles so don't be concerned about XT6 front components.

Emiley posted something about this sprocket a week or two ago. Can't recall the details but do recall there is a difference in the sprocket. Maybe someone else can recall her post and pull it up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88842

If you didn't touch the filler tube when the pump was replaced, I would not now suspect it. If you removed a bunch of fuel lines to replace the pump, I would suspect either a line is loose or now cracked.

Drum will probably never come off until you back off the shoes. Look for a slot on the backside of the brakes and use a screwdriver to back off the adjustor inside the brake drum.

Hydrolocked?

My 95 wagon is OBDII.

15 pounds is pushing the envelope but I ran 12-13 pounds in my old turbo wagon for 4 years with no problems. Ran 15 pounds for a few days but the engine pinged under load and I could tell by the deposits on the spark plugs the tops of the pistons were melting.

Bet you discover the tailhousing has cracked. Hope it's just the seal but you will very lucky if so. More damage was done if the car was towed with wheels down.

I recall reading that post around 10 years ago. The car and owner are probably both history now.

Recall reading an article years ago that dealt with modifying this type. The car was a VW with a Bosch airflow meter. Author claimed reducing the tension of the flapper spring, along with a few other modifications, produced enough HP the engine ripped the engine mounts. I never could grasp how modifying the flapper so that it opened quicker could produce any appriciable HP gain.

Hub=56.1mm

Found no ohm value for the CAS. Just a LED shining through 360 slots. Guessing it either works or doesn't. CTS: Test in water and the first test has me puzzled. @ 14F---7-11.5 kilo ohms. (How do you get water to 14F?) @ 68F---2-3 kilo ohms @ 122F--700-1000 ohms Edit: Just ralized you have an XT. Specs I provided are for the XT6. Probably the same. Air valve: YR wire goes to terminal #1 BW wire goes to terminal #2 YL wire goes to terminal #3 Between terminals 1 and 2---9.5 to 11.5 Between terminals 2 and 3---8.5 to 10.5 Between terminal 2 and the metal housing of the sensor--infinity. If you need another distributor, ECU and/or have any interest in an incomplete set of 1988 XT6 FSMs, missing chapter 1. PM me. John Edit #2. Ignore the above because what I have is for the XT6. A bad airflow meter will cause most of the problems you have described.