john in KY

Popping through intake suggests the timing is off or a burnt intake valve. Red hot cat suggests a timing problem.too much fuel/clogged cat. High rpm restriction also suggests a timing problem. I would look real hard at the valve timing/ignition timing before doing anything else.

Can be cleaned but not a DIY undertaking. Requires sonic equipment and other stuff most people don't have. Lots of businesses out there that perform this. You mail the injectors and they are taken apart, inspected, cleaned and flow tested so you end up knowing exactly the condition of each injecter.

This is a lot of oil. Don't know if this engine has a pressure sensor attached to the oil pump but I would look there first. Checking to see if it ruptured.

Quick repair would require one of those 4' jacks offroaders carry. Can't recall what they are called but if you can get the rear bumper under something solid or very heavy, like the rear bumper of a lifted 4x4 truck, the jack can be used to force your bumper down.

When you set the timing with the light, did you also connect the green test connecter and unplugged it when finished? Can't set the timing if not connected. The IAS is located on the left side of the throttle body. That one inch diameter or a little more that starts under the air tube going to the throttle body connects to the IAS. The thing is probably nasty inside. Easy enough to remove and clean. With the engine hot if you pinch that hose close, the idle should drop a bunch. Just a test to verufy the IAS is working. From your description of the problem everything was sort of fine until you played with the distributor timing. I'd couble check it before anything else.

The new cap should have a "1" on it identifying the terminal that goes to #1 cylinder. Using this as a starting point, and if you know the firing order and which direction the distributor turns, you should be home free.

Crimping the return line just increases the fuel pressure which increases the amount of fuel delivered to the injectors. I did this years ago on a turbo wagon along with a RRFPR with an initial setting of 50 pounds. Ran it for years with 15 pounds of boost with absolutely no problems.

Sounds like it is on its last legs. Better to just replace it. Any Subaru radio from the 90s and even up into the 200s should be a plug and play. Have a single din from my 95 LS you can have for postage if you want it.

If you need to make it longer, just cut it in the middle and insert a section of tubing.

http://www.staugustinefwd.com/

My wag is the problem lies somewhere in the distributor. The tach and the ECU both reqiure signals from the distributor. No signal to the tach probably means the ECU isn/t getting one either.

Gary, I have 2002 LL Bean edition leather seats in my 95. Bolted right in except one of the inside rear mounting holes is not used, and had to reuse the 95 seat belts. Still have the door panels and rear seat. Panels are different and never saw a need to replace the rear seat because I never ride back there. Forgot to mention, 8-way power and heated.

Don't overlook the original poster will be running 25mm thick adapters and he wants to retain the same wheel centerline value. 42mm-25mm=17mm. A wheel with a +17mm offset will clear the suspension but will increase the front track by roughly 1". CORRECTION: Boy, then I screw this up. You have to add, not subtract, the wheel adapter thickness to the offset to the wheel offset to keep everything else close. An 8" wheel with a 42mm offset without the adapter will clear the suspension. With the adapter the wheel would need a 67mm (42+25) offset.

A wheel with an offset of around 30mm will put the centerline of the new wheel/tire/adapter combo in the same place as the original but I'm thinking the inside of the 8" wheel will then contact the suspension. The 7" wide RS wheel just clears the struts on my Legacy and XT6. A wheel with and offset around 15-20 mm would kick the tire out about 1/2 inch but should clear the suspension parts. But this is all just off the top of my head.

I'd check for spark at the spark plugs. Good chance you just disconnected something.

If the rotors have never been removed, there should be 2 Phillips screws. Remove them and the rotor should almost fall off.

Charging a frozen battery also a big no-no. Recall about 40 years ago a cousin had this homemade battery charger. Just a generator powered off the motor on a compressor. No voltage regulator either. As he was connected the battery to the charger I voiced the opinion this was probably not a good idea and why not just give the battery time to thaw? He connected the battery and I headed for the door. Didn't make it. Battery went off like a bomb.

Pilot removal trick: Fill the hole with grease. Insert something the same size as the hole and whack it with a hammer. Bearing will almost always pop out.

Also if leaking the gas is HIGHLY explosive. Had a battery years ago that had a crack in the top. One day I removed and reinstalled the pos cable. Got that little spark you always get and the battery literally exploded in my face. Only reason I am not blind today is the sunglasses I was wearing saved my eyes.

Nope. /6 with a floor-mounted 3-speed. 30K miles. My wife's grandparent's car. Bought new and garaged in 1990 when they stopped driving it. Took about $1500 and a few weeks work to get it back on the road. Gas tank, brakes, radiator, stuck valves...all the usual stuff that goes bad from sitting for 17 years. But absolutely no rust and the interior is as new.

Got one from an 85 XT turbo I pulled years ago and saved. Can't tell from your posts which one you are looking for. Also mine has the serpentine pulley. Thinking all the turbo XTs came with that belt design.

Should also have a data plaque on the underside.

Think you would be happier with a rising rate regulator like 1:1.5. Easy/cheap way to boost pressure is to just restrict the return line with a hose clamp.

PM me the number. Is this a PAP yard? Crossville isnt that far from me. John