john in KY

OK WHERE DID THE XT XT6.NET FORUM MOVE TO? I cant belive they took it down. http://www.subaruxt.com

Check out the ignition switch.

If that is a SS scoop, and I think it is, I have one around here somewhere. Also it has mounting bolts. Makes it easy to mount. I never used it.

Don't know what your problem is but I'd rule out a knocking rod. 1200 miles with a rod knock? Never happen.

Where did I state the 68-70 models are not collectable? I was a teenager during the 60s and when I graduated in 66 there was exactly one 66 Charger running around town. Actually that lone example and a yellow one I saw sitting behind a barn in TN a few years ago are the only two I have ever seen. Nobody wanted them in the 60s and that hasn't changed. But beauty and value is in the eye of the beholder and if in your mind a 66 Charger is a hot car, go for it. Only real reason I replied was to post this photo of my Dodge Demon.

Auto dealers are in business to maximize profit. Just the nature of the game. Used cars with no known problems can be resold for more money then the identical car with problems. If whatever is causing the vibration is an easy repair, the dealer would have done it. Ditto for the alignment. I would never buy a used car off of a lot with known problems. An alignment problem combined with an engine vibration shouts wrecked car to me.

True but is a 66 Charger a classic? I'd lump it in with a 66 Rambler. Wasn't even that popular when new. Too bad neither is a 68 or 69.

Here's something I learned/experienced a long time ago. If just one brake is dragging enough it will generate heat. The heat is transferred to the brake fluid which then expands. Expansion of the brake fluid inturn casues the brakes to drag more generating more heat. Eventually all the brakes just lock up. Just one dragging brake could explain why both front brakes got hot. Car may have brake shoes in the rear that are adjusted looser then the front disc brakes. All MC have a small port to prevent this. This small port allows the expanding fluid to escape back into the reservoir. I would strongly suspect the MC s the source of this problem.

Can't answer any of your questions but if this was my problem I would just go with Outback rear struts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-85-94-Loyale-turbo-Automatic-AWD-tranny_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ022QQitemZ350000976562QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Axle splines are different. but will work with an axle swap.

For automatics you are stuck with 85/86/and the early 87 models. Newer XTs went to the 4 speed. Good news is there is a low mileage turbo auto on ebay right now.

Replacing the calipers is easy stuff if not rusted to death. Hardess part should be bleeding the brakes when done. May want to consider new pads and rotors and make it a done deal.

Lots of GL-10 turbo wagons had the LSD option. Just start looking under any GL-10 model and you'll eventually find one.

Good idea not to push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding as then there is a chance of blowing the seals in the MC. I just use my other foot as a stop between the pedal and floorboard. I also just use a big screwdriver as a pry bar to compress the piston. Just leave the pad in place and crack the bleeder valve.

Look at the rear diff. If LSD it will have a metal tag stating this. Or just jack up the rear and turn one wheel. If the other wheel turns in the same direction then it has the LSD. You are correct about the ratios.

Just a guess but bet the difference is in the differential stubby shafts. In other words your CV axles don't fit this other transaxle.

[quoteI have a 31 year old truck that's almost brand new have to regap the points, Just curious but what manufacturer still used points in 1976?

Have a set of sensors from some turbo hubs I bought a few years ago. Wish I had known you were needing some. Can't visualize where the sensors are located but bet if you just pulled the complete hub that sheared bolt could be easily gotten to.

[quote name=NuclearBacon perhaps sodium filled valves, something like that. QUOTE] Never happen. Ford used them in the hi-po 427 and Super Duty trucks back in the 60s.

All the EA82T engines basically take the same radiator. Turbo gets the 2 core radiator and everything else got the single core. As far as I know there was 2 "turbo" radiators and the only difference was the width. Auto/AWD/FWD/manual transmission...done of that makes any difference.

Don't know about that but thinking it shouldn't be. But for a few dollars it and the coil can be swapped with a j/y part.

Just before the battery went completely dead in my Legacy the tach started jumping around. Wondering if you have an electrical problem as in not getting enough voltage to the ECU and/or distributor. Thinking that power amplifier attached to the coil bracket takes 5 volts from the ECU. May be worth while to check this. I would also replace the coil and coil wire if this was my problem only because I have extra ones. edit: Just for jollies put a load on the battery and see how much voltage it is outputting. Recall the ECU will "die" around 10 volts.

Check the coil braket for a good ground. That ignition amplifier thingee requires it but as stated earlier, the 87 model XT will not run with anything less then an 87 distributor and ECU. No other years will work.