john in KY

Someone on another forum told me the distributor used by Subaru for something like the 1st 10 months of the 87 model run was unique. Anything older or newer will not swap. Snce you replaced the cylinder head, the timing belts had to come off. Any chance the one that drives the distributor is loose? Hope you saved the original distributor.

Fairly sure all the 95 through 99 engines used the same injector but you can't go wrong by just comparing the number on the injector.

All true but can you think of a better place to have a breakdown? Beer and really hot chillli are my favorite meal this time of year.

Double check the torque on all the bolts that were removed to install the new calipers. Drop the back half of the driveshaft and see what happens. Could be a driveshaft problem. Just about every time I work on a car and a new problem then developes, I have learned to recheck my work.

So I am dyslectic.

No. Subaru uses the diagonal brake system. Go RR/LF and then LR/RF.

Any model will work. I once went the other way and used a rack out of an XT turbo and installed it under an 85 GL wagon. Want to sell the original rack?

Isn't the 90/91 4EAT "special". Seem to recall something about the final drive ratio.

This type failure is usually catastrophic. long time ago an older cousin had a rusted 56 pink Rambler wagon. Really liked that car for some reason. Anyways, pulling out his driveway one morning the car literally broke in half. The Rambler like your Subaru was a unibody design.

If just the mounting points are still good, all that rusted stuff can be replaced in an afternoon using air tools. A few summers ago I pulled the complete rear assembly out from under a wrecking yard car in 3 hours using just hand tools and on my back.

Good chance the beam will also have to changed.

Also check all the fuses.

Still going to let this one get away. Wanting is one thing but do I need it is another. Got too many Subaru parts stashed away as is that I probably will never live long enough to use.

Yes. Think I'll just pass on this one.

Took a ride to local wrecking yard this morning. Found a GL with 135K miles and the DR 5-speed. Yard wants $275 for the DR. Seems high to me but wondering if this is an average price. Never bought a DR. John

The engine should start and idle with the airflow meter unplugged. If you then don't blow that use, the problem lies within the airflow meter.

Take a look at the fuse panel. All the fuses shoulkd have a hot side. Check with a test light. Probe the hot side and ground somewhere under the dash. If you find some "dead" fuses then maybe the problem will be found on the backside of the fuse panel.

That pinging sound was the pump breaking. Expect to send a lot of time getting that input shaft fully seated inside the transmission. I now always wire the TC to the transmission when I think that shaft is fully in there. This prevents everything sliding forward during the installation.

Don't know about the dots but when you get around to installing the transmission, make sure it slides completety up to the engine. If it seems to hang up with about 1/4 inch of being fully seated, then this means the input shaft has not engaged the pump. Don't force it as this will only break the transmission's pump.

Since the engine ran before the work was done and the distributor was not touched, it shouldn't be a problem. Just about out of ideas here. You did use the 3 ines on the flywheel to to time the belts? Recheck the spark plug wires routing. Unplug the engine wiring harness and reconnect everything. Sometimes a plug is overlooked and other times not fully seated. Check for an overlooked grounding strap. Also check all the fusible links and all the fuses.

Thinking maybe the problem is the distributor is not timed correctly. You seem sure it is timed correctly but just how did you reach this conclusion? I often drop the distributor in 180 degrees off. Any chance the rotor is loose?

Only has the single pump. All the relays are literally behind the instrument panel. The ECU completes the circuit (makes the ground). Guess you could always run a hot wire to the pump. If still a no-go, run the other wire to ground. Checking for trouble codes is an excellent idea.

Check pump fuse. Pretty sure the pump only receives voltage when the distributor is turning. No turnee then no voltage. Remove distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when someone else cranks the engine.

Check for a broken driver side timing belt.

If you used that manual to time the timing belts then that's wrong. Haynes forgot to mention the engine needs to be rotated one revolution after the first belt is installed. Also possible the rockers on that side fell out of position. Need to pull valve cover and verify.