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john in KY

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Everything posted by john in KY

  1. Either the pump is broken, very likely, or the pickup is blocked, very unlikely. Use the search function and you'll find numerous broken pump stories and how to avoid this problem.
  2. You stated "after a tranny rebuild" which immediately made me think you broke the pump during the installation. Pull one of the lines going to the radiator and start the engine. No flow and you have another major problem. But if you have flow, just let the engine idle until the transmission is pumped dry.
  3. Probably not. Drain the lube and look for metal if really concerned. I would suspect the tires if old and worn.
  4. Use a dab of RTV to seal one end of the roll pin hole in the hub. Then from the other side fill the hole with something like PB Blaster and let it sit for a few days.
  5. In my experiences once you can "hear" the differential it is time to replace or rebuild it. I could probably find one locally in the $50 range but who knows wherever you live.
  6. I have the rear air struts. New, never installed if interested.
  7. Local guy when I was a teenager special ordered a 4WD 64 IH to pull his ditching machine. Had 9.00/16 wheels/tires, hi-lo range, and a knob on the dash that when pulled locked the front and rear differentials. Never stuck it to my knowledge.
  8. 66 Dodge. edit: 318 A engine/4bbl/4-speed/4.10 SureGrip from a newer crewcab/10 ply tires/once drove it 6500 miles in a 20 day period. After that road trip (Alaska to Alabama) I knew it was a keeper.
  9. Had this exact model a few years back. Used it as my work car. Still was running strong when I sold it with 240K miles. You will be well ahead of the game to replace the radiator. Trust me it is now at least 70% clogged if it is the original. Engine probably needs timing belts so this is the time to do it all and be done with it. New radiator, reseal oil pump, new water pump and replace those other seals in the front. Very important when the camshaft seals are replaced that those O-rings also get replaced. You will know what I am talking about when you replace the obvious camshaft seals. I learned over the years most of the front of the engine oil leaks come from those O-rings leaking. Replace the ATF because for no other reason that transmission you have is a difficult puppy to replace. Just not many ever made.
  10. Very true. Someone in the past installed the wrong water pump. All the turbo engines take the shorter pump. If all the belts and pulleys line up, this means someone has also swapped these parts and you need to replace them with parts from a turbo engine.
  11. There is no doubt the fan made contact with the radiator. I would investigate why and fix that problem before installing the new radiator.
  12. Not even worth it considering the potential problems.
  13. Can you pinpoint where the beeping sound is originating from?
  14. One speed sensor is in the rear of the transmission (VSS1) and the other in the dash (VSS2). Purge control thingee is that cannister by the headlight. These are old stored codes so just ignore them. By old I mean could be 15 or more years.
  15. Also don't forget Subaru redesigned the transaxle in 99. This I believe will restrict you to finding a 99 and up transaxle.
  16. Sounds alot like the ECU is not getting its 12 volts. Seem to recall it is designed to function with as little as 10 volts but below that you start getting your symptoms.
  17. I always have to push on the piston while simultaneously turning it that last few mm. Also sometimes it helps to disconnect the E-brake cable.
  18. You need to "spread" whatever that thing is called the ball joint lives in. Use a large screwdriver or cold chisel. Sink it in with a few good whacks with a hammer.
  19. Actually may not be but good chance they are. The XT FWD turbo model eg came with 4WD. I've been told rear discs between the FWD and AWD models do not interchange.
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