john in KY

88 through 90 had that transmission. Be advised you still may have a rear mount problem when you eventually find these parts. Guessing you are using a "newer" 4EAT. Subaru changed the tailhousing mount in the early 1990s. Knew a person that used a "newer" tailhousing on his 88 or 89 4EAT transmission and discovered the mounting holes/angle didn't match. Probably justed confused you but it's early in the morning and I need some coffee.

Bad idea tinkering with the idle screw. Problem is air is entering the intake manifold by bypassing the throttle body. Check all those small hoses attached to the air intake tube and then look at the IAS.

Timing belt? Rotor button loose? IAS stuck in fully open position? The O2 and knock sensors will not produce this problem.

TC lock-up function malfunctioning? Just a wag.

After posting I also thought about the 215. Had one in a 44 Jeep I butchered many, many years ago. Actually ran very well. Lots of fun until I rolled it one afternoon duck hunting. That was like 35 years ago and I've never even sat in a Jeep since then. I don't think the "6" engine is all that much heavier then what you now have but what do I know. Good friend had a GT6 and another a TR2. Always liked the former better. Another friend had a worked over AH 3000. Now that was a real car.

Why not just look for an engine out of a newer GT6 keeping it all English?

Might want to check the vacuum modulator before replacing the transmission. If it stops working you end up with no up shifts.

I would be curious to know how much vaccum this engine is producing.

Single fan is stock for this model. Dollars to doughnuts the only problem with this car was a broken timing belt. Easy to ascertain by just cranking the engine and watching the rotor button.

Seems likely to me this new problem is nothing more than a major vacuum leak. Good chance during/after replacing those gaskets one or more vacuum lines were overlooked or came apart. If the engine can pull air downstream of the AFM, it will and since the ECU sees little airflow through the AFM it thinks the engine is at idle.

Buy it. With scrap metal prices where they are at, I'm sure a scrap yard would give $100 for it. Hard to lose any money if you can't get it running.

Heavy Duty. Sorry about that.

What was the last year for the FWD Legacy anyways? Since both of these axles came from out under Legacys, both were AWD, they both must be FWD Legacy axles someone previously installed.

Thank you and I think you are on to it. All my research was for AWD vehicles. I researched every model from 1990 up to 1999 and nothing. Never thought about the FWD models. But it may all now be a moot point. Found some XT6 CV boots on the shelf I bought years ago and the darn things worked. Whatever model these axles came from they are definitely HD being the same size as an XT6 axle. john

Got a set of front CV axles from a local wrecking yard. Suppose to fit all Legacys from 95 to 99. Both need new boots so I got some and it's a no-go. New boots are just too small. I know these boots I tried will fit my 95 LS wagon because I have used them. Noticed some differences in shaft size. The "new" axles have a one inch diameter shaft and the shaft has 3 identifying rings. All other Legacy axles I have seen have a smaller shaft size and only two identiftying rings. My question is what model used these HD axles and where can I get new boots that fit? Wasted an hour at the local parts store. Counter person crosschecked just about everything and could not come up with a match.

All that noise was caused by the overheated engine. The engine is likely running lean and/or the timing is too far advanced. Didn't mention exactly where the coolant flow was located and I wonder if the engine overheated just because of the ignition timing being off and the condition of the radiator. Any radiator on its last leg will cause overheating pulling a steep grade.

Exit 4 I-24 in TN works for me. That's the Clarksville/FT. Campbell exit. I live a few miles up the road in KY. If you are passing that exit in the daytime, let me know. I'll spring for a meal. John

That miss-at-idle problem is probably just a small vacuun leak. Experienced the same problems years ago after replacing plugs in my mother's-in-law wagon. Eventually I found a small hose on the passenger side that had cracked at the base. Still amazed such a small vacuum leak could cause 2 cylinders to missfire.

Have owned 2 over the years. Drove both over 100K miles and both where essentially problem-free. Won't hesitate to owning a third. Old radiators more than anything is the one thing that will kill the turbo engine.

I replaced the front brakes on my 95 wagon with components from an 02 WRX a few years back. No problems but you will need the caliper brackets if you go with a larger diameter rotor. Forgot to mention the bigger rotors require at a minimum 16" wheels.

The seat belt thing makes me think the ignition switch or its harness has a short.

The diameter of the input shaft should tell you something as I think the XT6/turbo transmissions used one size clutch plate and everything else used another size.

My thinking is since the left cylider head is now leaking water and it didn't until the intake manifold was removed, and since the intake manifold has a water crossover between the 2 heads, it seems to me the water in the cylinder problem is being caused by a leaking leftside intake gasket.

What if it is nothing more than a leaking intake manifold gasket on the driver's side?

Think everything you lised will interchange except FWD Impreza.