john in KY

Thanks. I'll look some more tomorrow.

95 Legacy. Where is the CTS located? I can't find it.

Don't know if this helps but fairly sure the XT6 used a 19mm bar.

Try an automotive machine shop. Most places that rebuild heads have boxes of this stuff laying around.

Any chance the problem is just a TCU problem or maybe a shifter cable problem? Transmissions just don't fail at this low mileage. Have the transmission trouble codes pulled at least before replacing it.

Saw a set on an 85 XT turbo in Alabama about 12 years ago. Only set I ever saw. Sad thing is I could have bought the car for $1200. Along with the gold wheels it had a black metal flake paint job. Damn.

Just guesses but the box with the blinking light is probably the ECU and the relay is the fuel pump relay.

Bought an XT6 parts car a few years ago that had a set of 215/60/14 tires. Tires completely filled the wheelwells and also looked like crap on the car. Forget about running 225s.

Just turn one of the axles. If the other axle rotates in the same direction then it's an LSD. But it's an open diff if the other axle turns in the opposite direction.

Two things. That seal you have, in my experiences, is the one that causes the greater oil leak. Changing the outer seal without changing the one you now have has never stopped a leak for me. Take the outer seal to a bearing warehouse/auto parts store. It either has a set of numbers on it or can be miked. That seal has been used in probably hundreds of different applications. You should have no problem getting a perfect match.

Bought a used one a few years ago. Drove it hard and put 100k more miles on it. Sold it and it ran for another 2 years before the new owner's grandchildren tore out the front differential. Never had a HG failure. And the boost was turned up to 14 pounds. IMO this engine fails when the radiator gets old.

The transmission will not shift in any gear when the front pump is damaged. Also if you remove either line to the radiator, there will be no flow.

Hub splines damaged or maybe that beveled washer was installed backwards?

Start at the fusible links. Verify power to the links and then through each link. Then move up to the fuse panel. Verify current flow through all the fuses. Some will be hot with key OFF and others with key in ACC position. I don't understand how you can have current at the ign sw with the key in the OFF position and no curent with key in the ON position.

Remove the radio and check the dash wiring harness with a multimeter. One wire should be hot with key off. This is the radio's memory wire. Another wire should be hot with the key in the ACC position. This wire turns the radio on and off. A third wire should be hot when the headlights are turned on. This is the illum wire. If all three wires have current flow then there is a problem with the radio or the wires are wired wrong.

The key here the donor car was a GL-10 TURBO. Subaru didn't use the 3-speed in the 88 and 89 GL-10 TURBOS. My old 90 Loyale with TURBO, last year for the turbo, had the 4EAT.

Bought the engine and transmission from either an 88 or 89 XT years ago and it was the FWD 4EAT. My 88 XT6 also has the FWD version.

Just have to put out there my dealer horror story. Event took place about 15 years ago and the car was an 88 Chrysler 5th Avenue. I was in Alaska and the wife in KY. She called to tell me she thought something was wrong with the transmission. I strongly advised her to not take it to the local Chrysler dealership but she insisted mainly because she and her family members always bought Mopar cars and trusted dealerships. Car was taken to the dealer and told to "just inspect and tell me what is wrong so I can then tell my husband". Wife was told the transmission needed rebuilt. Wife said I'll get back with you and the dealer said "how do you plan to get home because the transmission is now out of the car and in a million pieces?". Wife didn't know what to do so rented a car and authorized the repair even though no one had told her the transmission was coming out of the car. Wife drove the car for 2-3 months and then left the car in KY and joined me in AK for a year. We both returned 12 months later and I noticed the car had an oil leak under it. (Car was stored on a car port). Looked under the car, saw ATF had leaked from the speedometer cable where the dealer had slapped a gob of blue RTV. Transmission was covered with road grim and grease. Obvious to me it was an $100 junkyard transmission, not a dealer rebuild. Transmission lasted 4 months and then failed. No recourse because the 12 month warrenty had expired even though the car was stored for 12 months. Did I mention the dealer charged the wife $2300? Result: I replaced the transmission myself and sold the car. No one in my or the wife's family has owned a Chrysler product since this reaming and i can state with absolutely certainty neither the wife or I will ever buy another Chrysler product. Real shame because we both preferred Chrysler products all of our lives but we just can't put that dealership experience behind us. Note to Ford, GM and Chrysler: This is how you lose a buyer for life. Makes no difference if your product is good or bad when the dealership screws over the buyer.

Did you really torque that puppy down? Has to be grounded through the body to function. Just a wag.

Sterling is an English car.

I was thinking about trying to use an ignition module from an early GM car. I have seen it done on many rotaries, probes and mx6's. Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure if the signal from the ecu will drive it. On the rotary it gets the signal directly from the magnet in the disty. Any thoughts? Nice ignition upgrade but it won't work on a Subaru. Requires a magnetic pick-up type distributor.

It's junk now.

Just looked at an 88 FSM, MPFI but not turbo. Don't know if it is the same but who knows. The dropping resistor has 5 wires. The RED wire is the 12 volt feed wire. The other 4 wires go to the individual injectors. Dropping resistor resistance should fall between 5.8 and 6.5 ohms. Check the 4 wires going to the injectors. Use a stethoscope to test the injectors. If working you will hear a very audible clicking. The injectors also receive 12 volts. (Another test.) Back at the ECU, look for a pair of WHITE wires and a pair of WHITE w/Blue stripe. Pin numbers are 49 and 50 for the white pair and 51 and 52 for the other pair. These are the wires from the injectors. Looking for no less than 10 volts. The dropping resistor is also fused. Doubt if the fuse is the problem but won't hurt to check. Forgot to note which fuse it is. In an early post you stated something tested at 1 or 2 volts. This can't be. Nothing on this car will work at such low voltages.

Leaving for work but had a thought while shaving. The dropping resistor, if you have one, should be mounted on the passenger-side strut tower. My thought while shaving was to focus on the dropping resistor. I would think it will have 4 wires, 2 from the ECU and 2 going to the paired injectors. If the ECU side wires check out (Voltage test) then that will tell you just about everything upstream of the dropping resistor is good. Then check the injector wires for continuity. Also check the resistor itself. Edit: This is what I get for shaving and thinking. Cut myself and got it wrong. Dropping resistor has 5 wires. One is the 12 volt feed wire and the other 4 go to the individual injectors. It is possible 1/2 of the resistor has failed.