john in KY

the injectors are batched fired. Don't offhand know if the front 2 cylinders are a pair but check the plug wires at the distributor. If the front 2 cylinders are directly across from each other then they are a pair. good chance there could be a short in the engine wiring harness. Somewhere in the wiring harness the individual wires from the paired injectors join and become one wire. Hopefully this happens in the engine harness. Identify the wires for the injectors and then unplug the engine harness and check for voltage on the car side of the harness. Offhand I think the CAS in the distributor has something to do with the injectors firing. Don't know if this year used a dropping resistor but that is something else to check. I'll look at the FSM tonight and get back with you.

I remember seeing saw mill engines many years ago that were started on gasoline and then switched to kerosine when up to operating temperature. These engines then ran literally all day without any problems.

Anyone know if a driveshaft from a 90 Legacy will interchange with a 98 model? Asking because a local lady needs a driveshaft for her 98 Legacy. I know where I can get the driveshaft from a 90 LS wagon. Gotten just too cold to be pulling driveshafts in the mud just to see if it fits.

The last set of Gabriel struts I bought for a Subaru ended up in the trash. When I went to tighten that top nut the stud just twisted off. The nut wasn't even close to being tight. Maybe I just got a bad strut but I figured if the quality of the material used was that poor, the hell with ever using that brand again.

Check the belt tensoiners. Don't know if they use ball or roller bearings but what the heck.

2WD rear struts are longer than the AWD struts. Gabriel made good stuff many years ago. Not true today. If you gave me a set of Gabriel struts, I would give them back.

Back in the late 70s I lived in VA and had a 69 Austin American (English FWD) with clicking CV joints. Didn't at the time know anything about CV axles and just thought it was normal. Drove the car for several years around VA. Made numerous trips to Ohio. One trip to Chicago and another from VA to LA and back. When I finally scrapped the car it still had the original clicking axles.

I would. Check the ECU in the trunk for any stored trouble codes. Remove the air intake hose and see if the engine will fire with a small shot of starting fluid. Possibility one or both timing belts are on the verge of breaking and the timing as changed as a result. Does the fuel pump work? Blown fuse maybe? The XT6 is really not that complicated once you get involved with them. I have never seen an LSD in an XT6.

I think your problem is the seals in the turbo are failing.

Why not just remove the O2 bung from the original pipe, drill a hole in the new pipe and then weld the bung onto the new pipe. I've done this several times.

Probably the vacuum fitting for the vacuum modulator, which you don't have.

Put the transmission in 3ed or 4th gears. Depress the brake pedal and release the clutch. Clutch is good if the engine stalls.

Subaru fusible links are also color-coded. For example red = a certain diameter. And wire diameter size equates to a certain amperage. Offhand I don't recall the sizes but I think they can be found in the FSM. You could always just measure the wire diameter of the link you are replacing and just replace it with the same diiameter link.

Boat supply businesses will have everything. Check out http://www.genuinedealZ.com first. Other sites I have used are: http://www.wiringproducts.com, http://www.westmarine.com, http://www.wiringproducts.com (if you use these guys be prepared for a long wait. always got what i ordered but several weeks of waiting not uncommon ), and http://www.fastenerhut.com. If you want to upgrade the battery i would go with a dual terminal Optima battery as long as I am plugging companies/brands. I also used the style of battery cable terminal that has an additional threaded stud. I used the stud to mount the alternator charge wire and glow plug feed wire.

Just made a set for a dual-battery system for my tractor. There are 2 basic types of solder. One works for this application and the other doesn't. Can't recall the 2 types at the moment. What I did was mount the copper lug in a vise and then used a propane torch to fill the lug with molten solder. Then just push the cable into the lug. Use only 3M shrink wrap tubing if you want to prevent future corrosion problems. The other brands I have used are not up to the 3M quality standard. A cable cutter really makes cutting the cable easy. Hacksaw really makes a mess.

It's the joint. Could and probably well last for 10K or more miles but when it fails it is a catastrophic failure.

You can split that nut with a good sharp chisel and a 3 lb hammer. Takes about 10 whacks.

Loose hose clamp?

I hope you know the transmission input shaft will almost certainly pull free when the transmission is pulled. This is to be expected. The problem is reinstalling it. Get it wrong and it's "where do i find another transmission time?".

Don't worry about it. Every turbo/digital dash I have owned did the same thing.

Verify the distributor rotor turns when the engine is cranked. No rotatation means a broken timing belt.

The reason the temp gauge goes up and down is there are air pockets moving through the system. When an air pocket hits the temp probe the needle drops. Then superheated coolant moves under the probe and the needle shots up. If this was my problem I would just bit the bullet and pull both cylinder heads to see exactly what is the problem. Very good chance the problem is a warped head or leaking gasket because the methhead didn't properly torque the head bolts. Didn't you earlier state the engine seemingly ran fine when you first bought the car? If true then this would point to a HG failure. If the air control valve and MAF are the same, PM me your address and I'll mail you an extra one I have.

What about that vacuum line from the manifold that runs to the modulator?

I honestly don't know. I have 2 XT6s that I tinker with and just assummed the trouble code retrival process for the XT6 and 1st generation Legacy was the same.

TCU = transmission control unit. The CEL doesn't flash. Find the ECU, which should be very near the test connectors, and then find that little "window". this is where the flashes occur. Don't know about the black connector but on older models I always used the green connector with the key in the ON position.