john in KY

Gary, I just remembered something. The turbo models all came with a fuel cut-off feature if the boost exceeded some value. I think that silver box you are pondering contains whatever is used to cut the fuel. This could explain the no fuel problem. john

My advice is to repair your current car. At least you know what is wrong with it. As for that "rod knock", failing rod/crankshaft bearings don't sometimes make noise. The sound is always there and it only quickly gets worse. Another reason is you will be spending all your money on the 2000 with unknown problems. Something will certainly fail on the 2000 before you pay it off and what will you use for money when that day arrives? I once drove a then 20-year old 63 Comet for 6 years and 100K miles because money then was tight. I guess I sort of bonded with the pile of crap because I still own it and have it stored in a barn in Ohio. edit: This is what happens when I don't first read all the posts.

Another source for the steam could be the turbo itself. It is water-cooled and there is a chance the housing may have a crack somewhere.

The turbo exhaust system won't clear the Loyale engine cradle so you will have to use the XT engine cradle. The 4EAT isn't a stand-alone type transmission. Requires its own electronics to function.

The reason the clutch engages at the top of the pedal travel is because the adjustment is too tight...bearing too close to PP. This also explains the TO bearing noise. The TO bearing was never designed to maintain constant contact with the PP.

Maybe. Check the pin locations at the bottom of the radiator and the mounting holes at the top. But first just compare widths.

If you do decide to replace the starter yourself, first disconnect the battery cables at the battery. After the starter has been removed and the new one installed, then reconnect the battery. There is enough current flowing in that main cable to the starter motor to melt metal if you by accident ground it.

Replacing the starter solenoid should solve this problem. If it doesn't replace the ignition switch. Edit: When cranking the engine, current flows from the battery, through the ignition switch and then to the starter solenoid . Too much resistance in the ignition switch and not enough amps make it to the solenoid to energize it. Result is a no-crank situation.

No, the calipers and rotors must match.

You can upgrade to WRX rotors if you also use the WRX calipers. Everything just bolts on. Only downside is with the WRX stuff you have to run 16" or larger wheels.

Sounds like the only problem with the original transmission is a leaking input shaft seal.

The super rich condition could be caused by a ruptured FPR.

Physically the struts fit. The brake line brackets are different and will need modified. Once installed the front will be slightly higher than stock and the rear slightly lower.

I replaced a set of BF Goodrich tires on my 66 Dodge Power Wagon a few years ago with a set of Kumhos and absolutely love them. We are talking the difference between night and day. Don't know anything about their car line of tires but they sure know how to build truck tires (285 16, E rating).

Try Dale Teague. He has a website. Something like teaguesubaru. Easy enough the goggle.

This is a real long shot but a few years ago I worked on my mother's-in-law 85 wagon and when finished #1 cylinder was dead and the engine ran like crap. Eventually discovered a small vacuum line in the intake manifold runner that fed the #1 cylinder was cracked.

Manual states LF/RR and the RF/LR.

I had a 90 turbo wagon with a fully modified exhaust that ran 14 pounds of boost with a RRFPR that averaged 24mpg. Once got 29mpg on a 600 mile trip.

What I keyed on in your original post is the 10 mpg. You should be getting closer to 24 mpg. Where is all this wasted fuel going? Have you removed and inspected the spark plugs? I would at least check for a ruptured FPR and leaking injectors. Did you reuse the orginal tubo-spec distributor when you made the engine modifications? Have you ever used a timing light to check the timing after the engine is warmed up?

The DL, I have only actually seen one, did indeed not have a back seat. Actually didn't have anything for options. Subaru couldn't have sold many.

http://www.XT6.net is your new friend.

Just a thought but you could swap the 2 injectors from the cylinders that are firing with the 2 from the dead cylinders. If nothing changes than you can rule out clogged injectors.

Don't know but in the XT/XT6 it is under the carpet under the driver's seat up against the sill. My guess it is in the same location for the GL10. Have to remove the seat and sill plate and then roll back the carpet to find it.

An XT6 I bought a couple of years ago with almost new rear struts did exactly the same thing. Leave it parked and within minutes the rear solenoids would open and dump the compressed air. Start the engine and the struts immediately would inflate. I eventually "solved" the problem by replacing the control unit under the seat. Haven't had a lick of suspension problems in the last 2 years.

Any chance the starter could be jammed or somthing?