john in KY

Even though the guy who replaced the head gasket was described to us a meth head, the compression check argues that compression blow by does not seem to be the problem. That said, I do notice that even when the thing does not run, the radiator becomes pressurized and can push by a new 13 psi radiator cap. Is that normal? If the cap is off, obviously coolant shots straight up. Not mormal to me. Really sounds like compression is entering the coolant system somewhere. Don't know about the first gen Legacys but in older models the LED is always part of the ECU. Just a small "window" about the size of a pencil erarser.

How about a compression test? Any chance the intake manifold could be leaking at the gaskets?

Mine was shipped on just a pallet. Nothing fancy. Bought a couple more transmissions over the years from wrecking yards. They also arrived on pallets. If a business can ship the shipping costs goes way down. Can't remember the shipping company but American Freight for some reason sounds right. Things get shipped everyday without a problem. It was just my bad luck I went with a terrible company.

Need to remove the center console. Look for hidden screws both sides of the console. Screws are hidden behind one inch square plugs. remove the trip computor by finding that plug to the left of it. Then pull radio. Don't touch the bezel. Reomve steering coulumn and then the dash panel. The dash has bolts at either end and a row along the windshield...more plugs to be found/removed. Couple of bolts down around the floor hump. May as well take out the front seats. Don't worry about the wiring. It is idiot proof. Only real problem is you will overlook plugging something back in. Once you locate all those plugs with the screws/bolts behind them you are home free. Figure about 4 hours the first time to pull the dash.

Had an XT6 transmission shipped from CA to KY about 5 years ago. Recall it cost $250. Months after it arrived and the shipping paid the freight company sent me another bill for something like $150, stating the reason was "an initial error in their shipping cost estimate." I had to pay that amount because I used a friend's business address to get the lower rate and the shipping company was about to turn the account over to a collection agency against him. My one and only and last shipping experience. Never again.

Are 2.2 and 2.5 flywheels interchangable?

Just a wag but my guess is a bad alternator. Could just disconnect the heavy wire from the alternator overnight and then see if anything changed. There are 4 or 5 fusible links. Each protects a circuit. Since you have checked the fuses this means this main circuit, the one that feeds the fuse panel, is not the problem. Offhand I don't know what circuits the remaining links protect but just guessing i would venture the alternator, steering motor and whatever. Once you have identified what circuit the problem link is protecting you can then zero in on the problem component. Still believe you will find the alternator to be the problem.

Perfectly normal for that shaft to come out. It will all go back togather but you have to have patience. Keep trying until everthing lines up. Don't use a hammer and don't use the bellhousing bolts to "pull it togather". Use force and you will break the internal pump and then you are up the river. Once you have it all seated use a section of wire across the TC to preent it from moving forward when installing the transmission.

You may have another problem. It should not take ages for even a cracked strut to inflate. Just as a test, swap the front solenoids side to side. If nothing changes then it is a safe bet the compressor is on its last legs. If the left side deflates overnight then replace the solenoid.

If it has a turbo and the 4EAT transmission it has to be an 87.5 model, which is super rare. The intake alone would be worth the asking price. edit: Once had an 89 FWD XT with the 4EAT and a 90 turbo Loyale with the same transmission.

Gary, I just remembered something. The turbo models all came with a fuel cut-off feature if the boost exceeded some value. I think that silver box you are pondering contains whatever is used to cut the fuel. This could explain the no fuel problem. john

My advice is to repair your current car. At least you know what is wrong with it. As for that "rod knock", failing rod/crankshaft bearings don't sometimes make noise. The sound is always there and it only quickly gets worse. Another reason is you will be spending all your money on the 2000 with unknown problems. Something will certainly fail on the 2000 before you pay it off and what will you use for money when that day arrives? I once drove a then 20-year old 63 Comet for 6 years and 100K miles because money then was tight. I guess I sort of bonded with the pile of crap because I still own it and have it stored in a barn in Ohio. edit: This is what happens when I don't first read all the posts.

Another source for the steam could be the turbo itself. It is water-cooled and there is a chance the housing may have a crack somewhere.

The turbo exhaust system won't clear the Loyale engine cradle so you will have to use the XT engine cradle. The 4EAT isn't a stand-alone type transmission. Requires its own electronics to function.

The reason the clutch engages at the top of the pedal travel is because the adjustment is too tight...bearing too close to PP. This also explains the TO bearing noise. The TO bearing was never designed to maintain constant contact with the PP.

Maybe. Check the pin locations at the bottom of the radiator and the mounting holes at the top. But first just compare widths.

If you do decide to replace the starter yourself, first disconnect the battery cables at the battery. After the starter has been removed and the new one installed, then reconnect the battery. There is enough current flowing in that main cable to the starter motor to melt metal if you by accident ground it.

Replacing the starter solenoid should solve this problem. If it doesn't replace the ignition switch. Edit: When cranking the engine, current flows from the battery, through the ignition switch and then to the starter solenoid . Too much resistance in the ignition switch and not enough amps make it to the solenoid to energize it. Result is a no-crank situation.

No, the calipers and rotors must match.

You can upgrade to WRX rotors if you also use the WRX calipers. Everything just bolts on. Only downside is with the WRX stuff you have to run 16" or larger wheels.

Sounds like the only problem with the original transmission is a leaking input shaft seal.

The super rich condition could be caused by a ruptured FPR.

Physically the struts fit. The brake line brackets are different and will need modified. Once installed the front will be slightly higher than stock and the rear slightly lower.

I replaced a set of BF Goodrich tires on my 66 Dodge Power Wagon a few years ago with a set of Kumhos and absolutely love them. We are talking the difference between night and day. Don't know anything about their car line of tires but they sure know how to build truck tires (285 16, E rating).

Try Dale Teague. He has a website. Something like teaguesubaru. Easy enough the goggle.