john in KY

This is a real long shot but a few years ago I worked on my mother's-in-law 85 wagon and when finished #1 cylinder was dead and the engine ran like crap. Eventually discovered a small vacuum line in the intake manifold runner that fed the #1 cylinder was cracked.

Manual states LF/RR and the RF/LR.

I had a 90 turbo wagon with a fully modified exhaust that ran 14 pounds of boost with a RRFPR that averaged 24mpg. Once got 29mpg on a 600 mile trip.

What I keyed on in your original post is the 10 mpg. You should be getting closer to 24 mpg. Where is all this wasted fuel going? Have you removed and inspected the spark plugs? I would at least check for a ruptured FPR and leaking injectors. Did you reuse the orginal tubo-spec distributor when you made the engine modifications? Have you ever used a timing light to check the timing after the engine is warmed up?

The DL, I have only actually seen one, did indeed not have a back seat. Actually didn't have anything for options. Subaru couldn't have sold many.

http://www.XT6.net is your new friend.

Just a thought but you could swap the 2 injectors from the cylinders that are firing with the 2 from the dead cylinders. If nothing changes than you can rule out clogged injectors.

Don't know but in the XT/XT6 it is under the carpet under the driver's seat up against the sill. My guess it is in the same location for the GL10. Have to remove the seat and sill plate and then roll back the carpet to find it.

An XT6 I bought a couple of years ago with almost new rear struts did exactly the same thing. Leave it parked and within minutes the rear solenoids would open and dump the compressed air. Start the engine and the struts immediately would inflate. I eventually "solved" the problem by replacing the control unit under the seat. Haven't had a lick of suspension problems in the last 2 years.

Any chance the starter could be jammed or somthing?

I'd take the RS wheels since I have a set on my XT6 and think they are the best looking wheel out there.

I just noticed the engine is a JDM. The JDM engine's wiring harness will not work. If you used the JDM intake manifold and wiring harness, that is a reason for the no-start problem. What do you mean by "MSD ignition"? Does this mean a MSD coil? I would replace it with a stock coil just to eliminate it as a possibility. Probably none of my business but I used to live in the Youngstown area and just wondered where this new job is located? Alaska? Central America?

You are getting hosed on this deal. If you truly do need a new coil and ignitor, $10 to $15 spent for a used one would get you on the road. Learned from experience the coil will not fire if the ignitor is not well grounded to the body.

From your description it sounds like all 4 struts go down. If this is true then it means all 4 struts have a slow leak or the air lines between the front struts are leaking or all 4 strut solenoids are leaking or some combination of the aforementioned. This is very unlikely. The compressor is designed/wired to kick in even if there is no key in the ignition. The only way the compressor and solenoids can be taken offline is to disconnect the battery. This is why I suggested in a previous posting to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for a couple of days. If you do this test and the struts stay inflated you then know there is no leakage in the system. If one or more struts deflate but not all you now know those struts have a leakage problem. I suspect if you do this none of the struts will deflate. This means tank solenoid or control unit problems most likely. Attempting to diagnose the problem without the FSM will be very difficult. If the system stays up with the battery disconnected I would just disconnect the battery whenever you planned on not using the car for a few days.

Classic problem. The TC is not fully seated. The problem is that small splined shaft inside the input shaft is hanging up inside the transmission. You just have to wiggle and turn it until it slides all the way in. This can take hours. If you have already torqued the bellhousing bolts during the installation, thinking the transmission would "jump" that last 1/4" , the transmission is probably now junk.

[quote Can I replace the speed sensor module on the outside of the transmission Yes. It just screws out. New one costs about $150.

Doesn't sound like it is. Here in the States Subaru placed a sticker under the bonnet stating the vehicle is OBDII compliant.

Could be the proportioning valve if this car has rear drum brakes.

There should be a key code on the passenger door lock.

The input shaft is hollow. Inside it there is a solid shaft that often comes out when the TC is removed. When you install the transmission it must fully seat against the bellhousing. If it seems to hang up 1/4" from the bellhousing...STOP. That solid shaft is not fully engaged and if you proceed to tighten the bolts all you will do is bust the internal oil pump. Be forewarned getting that solid shaft to fully engage whatever it engages inside the transmission can be a real PITA.

When the OD of one pipe equals the ID of a second pipe. For example a 2" pipe (OD) will just fit into a 2 1/8" diameter pipe because it has a 2" ID.

Take the control arm somewhere that has a press and have the joint pressed out. Much cheaper than replacing the entire assembly.

I think that second plug is for the factory amp. I installed one of these radios in my XT6, didn't use the second plug, and everything works just fine. I think you may have a problem with the radio.

One end does have an accessible snap ring. The other end has an internal snap ring. Whack that end with a brass hammer and she'll come off. Really don't need aa vice.