john in KY

The lighter is held in place by a "nut" on the backside. Often it can be loosen with just your hand.

I would check for spark at the plugs and also check for fuel flow at the injectors. You'll probably discover you don't have one or both.

I would just replace the entire radio with another from ebay eg.

Fairly sure the TC lockup function is controlled by a solenoid. Offhand don't recall which one. But the good news is all the solenoids aren't difficult to fet to after the pan is removed.

A TPS not functioning properly will create the problem you have. The TPS could be out of adjustment, the wiring harness could have corrosion, or the TPS could be junk.

Use a guage to learn the true oil pressure.

The Outback has higher ground clearance compared to the LS. I think the Outback struts are a tad longer but should interchange,

The heater dosen't work because there is an air pocket in the coolant system.

1988. XT and GL10 got it. The last GL/Loyale model to use it was the 90 Loyale with turbo. The XT6 always had the 4 EAT.

It has been my experience the starter solenoid is not getting enough amps, not volts, to energize. Not enough amps because there is too much resistance somehere in the circuit. What I have done is to just install another relay under the hood. One side of the relay connects directly to the battery and the other to the starter solenoid. The original solenoid wire is then used to trigger the new relay. Takes about 30" to install and has worked every time for me.

From your description it sounds like the only thing wrong with the suspension is a leak where the lines connect to the compressor. Probably nothing more than a bad O-ring. The air susprension can easily be converted to the conventional suspension. Just remove the complete assemblies from the donor car. Don't have to disassemble the stuts/springs. Since you have the air suspension, the model must be an LS or LSI, which where the top models. The price is right and I would buy this car.

I have a Sears story. About 12 years ago I was still in the military and spent all day Saturday and Sunday at the autocraft shop working on my first Subaru. A friend was working on his Chrysler van in the next bay. He completely replaced the front suspension...ball joints, tie rod ends , struts, brake rotors, brake pads and new CV axles. Took the van Monday morning to Sears for an alignment. Sears first did a "free" inspection. My friend was both shocked and amused when he was given the written report. According to Sears the front end was completely worn out and the estimate cost to replace all the components they found in need of replacement was either $1100 or $1300. I can't recall which. This all happened during the time Sears was involved in a class action lawsuit. Seems a lot of people thought they had been grossly overcharged for work not needed/done.

I seem to recall low. 2.7 ohms. Easy enough to verify with a multimeter.

Some but not all the MPFI engines used a dropping resistor. As for as I know, and I didn't see one in the FSM diagram anywhere, you do not have a resistor. If you did it would be bolted on the RF strut tower, but it's not there so don't bother looking for it.

Grounded in the ECU.

I installed an LSD in my XT6 a few years ago and recall the FSM recommends a special Subaru-only fluid be used. Had a heck of a time finding it.

Doesn't this swap also require changing the MC? I seem to recall reading somewhere one system, can't recall which, maintains a few pounds of line pressure for some reason and the other system does not.

There has to be a connector. How can it be replaced if there is not? Checked an old FSM. The throttle body should have 2 red wires. One has a white stripe and the other black. I'm thinking the red/white wire is the 12v from the ECU and the red/black is the "ground" back to the ECU. The FSM states the unplugged throttle body should have between .5 and 2 ohms and it should be replaced if outside this range.

I don't know anything about this injection system but on the MPFI system, one wire to the injector is always hot. It's my understanding the ECU makes and breaks the ground side of the injector to make it fire/pulse. I'm guessing your system does about the same. May want to check the injector wiring harness. One of the wires should be hot. Could be as simple as a blown fuse or blown fusible link. Miles also brought up a good point. The ECU will not fire the injector if it does not receive a signal from the distributor. But I would first check/verify the injector is getting current flow.

Either car have a good LF fender and bumper? Need s to be Mica Ruby, sort of maroon.

Remove the door panel and look for a rod out of adjustment.

But, here's the sucky part, when I went to remove the spark plugs on my car, the two on the drivers side would NOT come out! I was able to break them loose, but then as I'm unscrewing it, it would get tighter? Same thing happened to me once. Plugs were in the engine for about an year. One did exactly what your 2 are doing. Finally got it out by using a 3' cheater bar and lots of Power Blaster. The only explanation I could come up with was a carbon build up on the threads. Since that experience I no longer use Autolite plugs and always use antiseize on the threads.

What the heck, check the oil filter for tightness and for a hole. Look at the oii pressure sender. I don't think any gasket could leak as much oil as you have described. I would look real hard around the oil filter.

I think your new battery is dead. Check the headlights for brightness.

I've been told there is a screw on the backside of the lock cylinder that when it falls out will cause this problem.