john in KY

Visit http://www.xt6.net. "Mr. Radon" a few months ago did the short belt thing. Even posted the belt #.

I would say no. But if you swapped the complete intakes and engine wiring harnesses and maybe the distributors, I see no reason why that would not work.

When you changed the fuel pump, did you get one from either a MPFI or turbo engine-equipped car? The pickup tube in the tank has a sock that probably needs replaced.

blfuller repaired his. Same problem as yours. Probably need to talk to him over on xt6.net.

Visit http://www.xt6.net. Go to the discussion section, look for a post by "blfuller" a few months old. "Engine back in but XT6 won't move, what's up...suggestions"

Do you recall that splined shaft inside the input shaft when you installed the TC? It has a nasty habit of not being fully engaged when the transmission is swapped. Appears to be fully seated but often it is about 1/4 " from being so. If not fully engaged it will break the pump when the bellhousing bolts are fully tighten. But just do the test I suggested. No ATF flow and you know the internal pump is damaged. Do you remember if the bellhousing was fully seated against the back of the engine when you installed the transmission or did it seem to catch/hang up on something just before being fully seated?

I think you broke the internal pump when you installed the transmission. With the engine running, pull one of the ATF cooler lines. No flow means no pump. But if you have a stream of ATF, check the linkage/wiring harness.

Just an update on my fabulous MAACO paint job. Paint is now about 5 years old and has at most 6Kmiles on it. Took the car out last week to burn the rust off the rotors and decided to wash and wax it. Stopped at the car wash. As I sprayed the car down I couldn't help but notice the WATER was cutting the paint off the mirror housings and blowing postage-size and larger larger chunks of paint off both bumpers. Drove home and parked and covered the car. Didn't bother with the wax because IMO wax on this paint is just a waste of good wax. Just for a moment I thought about the MAACO warranty still in the glove box. Nah, really bad idea. Why take a problem to whomever it was that created the problem?

My 95 LS has the dual port 2.2. My 95 was manufactured very early in the production run. Think it has a build date of Oct., 1994.

Probably a 98% chance the problem is the master switch in the driver side door. Clean contacts or replace this switch. Reason the window moves slowly when it does work is resistance at the master sitch is so high very little current makes it to the motor. If you as a test just hotwire the window motor I wager it will fly up and down.

The Xt was offered in 3 trim packages. The base model was the DL. Guess it was fairly rare as I have only seen one. The middle trim package is what you have, the GL. Top of the line was the GL-10. Visit http://www.xt6.net

Not only do all the radios fit, even the radio wiring harness plug is the same.

My guess is the timing belt broke.

Have you spilled any drinks around the shifter over the years? There are switches down there that will cause this condition when they get "gummed up".

I have a 95 legacy LS wagon . Recently acquired some low-mileage 98 GT wagon front and rear struts, also the coil springs. Are the GT and non GT struts the same or different? Are the 95 and 98 GT coil springs the same diameter? Heard rumours the GT struts require a different upper spring perch. Just too lazy at the moment to remove the struts now on the car and compare.

Wonder if you forgot to install that washer above the spring hat? Really sounds like there is "play" somewhere. Had the same sound years ago when I had rear struts installed in a GM product. Ride was so bad I started looking and noticed a thick rubber bushing on both struts was not installed.

kingbobdole lives in CO and has a complete engine for sale on ebay.

Everything under the hood may be working just fine. Problem could be in the dash. Thinking doors or baffles or whatever they are called aren't opening. Just to get a feel, check the hoses in a friend's car. One compressor hose will be very hot to your touch and the other very cold. If your hoses feel about the same, then the problem is not under the hood. It sounds to me like the dealer is throwing parts, very expensive parts, at the problem. I don't work on AC but anyone that does should be able to quickly pinpoint the problem.

The AC compressor can be unbolted from the engine and set over on the side of the engine bay. No need to break the lines.

Battery terminals loose/corroded? Guess you could have blown the fusible links in the small box close to the battery.

The wheel size is cast into the rim of the wheel. Should be something like 15JJ. 15JJ means it is a 15 inch wheel.

Easy enough to determine when the original bearing is pressed out. If it "falls" out then replace the hub. If it presses out hard then the hub is good.

The flapper AFM was only used on the 85 and 86 models. Since you have this AFM won't it be easier just to find an 85/86 intake, distributor and ECU? You could also go the other way, toss the flapper AFM and find an 87 or newer intake, AFM, distributor and ECU. You can't make an 87 or newer ECU work with the 85/86 stuff. You have either an 85 or 86 engine/intake/sensors. The AFM is also either an 85 or 86. This is good. But you don't know which year distributor and ECU you have. This is bad. Again, you just can't mix 85/86 stuff and 87 and newer stuff. A Subaru dealer or a wrecking yard should be able to tell you what year ECU you have. Probably could do the same with the distributor. Both have part numbers. Once you have all the parts either 85/86 or newer than you really need the FSM wiring diagram. A 87 or newer wiring diagram will do you no good if working with 85/86 components.

GL10 seats are more comfortable imo. The XT6 seats will sit much lower if installed in the GL10. Guess the seat brakets can be swapped.