john in KY

Clean the throttle body and all its passages, the IAC and all the engine wiring harness connectors. If nothing improves think about having the injectors professionally cleaned. Visit http://www.xt6.net for more ideas.

i may help with the fuel lines. Fuel flows from the filter, through the hard lines, feeds all the injectors, and then to the FPR. That hard line on the FPR is the return line. The return line to the tank can probably be identified using compressed air. Manufacturing your own harness is not the way to go. I know the 85/86 engine harnesses are vastly different from the 87 and newer. Been also told a JDM is unique to a JDM engine. The ECU also has to "match" the vintage of the engine. 85 and 86 turbo engines used one ECU and newer models used something totally different. You seem to have a mismatch of parts. First need to determine what year engine/intake you have and ditto for the ECU. Once you know the intake sensors and air flow meter and ECU "match", then just buy a used stock wiring harness.

No. We have no idea the ECU is receiving a distributor signal. Don't know how to check for that. Just assumed it was because as mentioned earlier, the engine will run if fuel is manually added.

Fairly sure I know where I can get a printout of the wiring diagram this weekend. I don't know what else to check other than checking for breaks/shorts in the wiring harness. If we ever solve this problem, I'll post the solution here. Thanks for all the advice.

This is what my friend and I have learned/discovered. All 4 injectors are getting 12 volts. All injectors when tested with a meter showed 2.7 ohms. Injectors will "fire"/click when grounded. Engine starts when fuel is added to intake. Fuel pump checked and is working. Fuel lines between filter and FPR were installed backwards. Fuel lines corrected. ECU swapped with a known good one. All engine ground wires are connected. Injectors still will not fire when the engine is cranked. I'm just about out of things to check. Maybe there is a short in the engine to ECU wiring harness. Almost forgot. Checked the ECU for troubnle codes. Only had one. 12 or 14. Can't recall which but it indicated ignition switch. Any more suggestions for things to check will be greatly appreciated.

Please bear with me. I think I undrstand some of this. The injector doesn't even have to be installed. If you apply 12 volts to one side you will see 12 volts on the other side only because the test equipment has completed the ground-side of the circuit. Is it correct the injectors fire because the ECU completes the circuit and then breaks it? Which "side" of the circuit is broken? I'm thinking it is the ground side. If I'm right about this, does the ECU have to grounded or is one of the pinouts a ground? What tells the ECU to fire the injectors? Is it a signal from the distributor?

The 85 didn't use a dropping resistor. Is it true both sides of the injectors have 12 volts? Somehow that just seems wrong. Asking because a friend currently has the exact same problem after doing an engine transplant in an 85 GL10. He has 12 volts only on one side. When the other side is grounded, that injector will fire one time.

I ran 15 inch wheels with 65 series tires for 4 years with no problems. Car was a 90 Loyale AWD.

did you plug the vacuum line that originally went from the intake manifold to the transmission modulator?

The timing belts timing marks are located on the flywheel. I don't see how they cannot be there. Rotate the engine a full revolution. You will be looking for 3 closely spaced scribe marks. No numbers or ATDC/BTDC...just 3 lines. But if they aren't there, then the circumference of the flywheel had to have been machined for some unknown reason. Save yourself a ton of grief and find another flywheel.

If the metal exposed by the missing chunk is nice and shiney, then he probably need break it off. Otherhand, dull and tarnished-looking then most likely an old crack.

Broken timing belt?

This transmission has an ATF temperature sensor. When it fails you get the symptoms you described. Easy repair and not expensive.

Ignore single digit codes. They indicate things like automatic/manual/California equipped.

Replace the AFM.

I've towed 2 AWD XT6s with a dolley and with just the driveshafts removed probably a total of 500 miles. Had no problems whatsoever and still drive both cars. Won't hesitate to tow another cross country if needed.

Some radios have a fuse located on the backside. Others have an inline fuse in the harness.

First, this was a fairly rare option if I recall correctly. Offered only in 88, 89, and 90. The same transmission used in the first generation Legacy has a different bellhousing which means you would have to use your differential. Don't think there are any major differences between the turbo and nonturbo models. Maybe a different valve body but I suspect both are identical. Only thing not sure about is the spline count on the differential stubby shafts. Easy enough to find out if the turbo and nonturbo models used different CV axles.

You have the 4EAT. Essentially the same transmission Subaru used in the LEGACY/IMPREZA models until around 1996. Bellhousing bolt pattern different but that's about it.

A hydralic press will remove that broken bolt, but is it even worth it? NA Subaru heads are a dime a dozen.

Just pull the splined stubs from the old differential. They will pull free. Only held in place by a weak snap ring. DON"T remove any of the bolts around the differential where the stubs insert. To reinstall in the "new" differential, just push them in until that snap ring clicks into place.

Did you remove that tapered washer located behind the nut?

I used Maaco a few years ago. Paid for the "premium" service. $900 wasted. Just terrible. I have no idea how Maaco remains in business. Under the topcoat is suppose to be a coat of primer-sealer. At least I paid for it. But where the topcoat has flaked off I can see Maaco didn't even bother the primer the car. I won't let Maaco repaint any vehicle of mine. Forgot to mention the shifter. I was told if I brought the car in on Sat. it would be ready Mon. Monday turned into Sat. I thought it was nice that the car was placed in front of the shop when I went to get it. Learned why after I got home and went to back out the driveway. The shifter fell apart went I went to place it into reverse. Just one of those things? I don't think so.

The FWD and AWD transaxle, at least on the XT6, have different harnesses. EG, the VSS is internal on one type and external on the other type. If you used the stock harness unmodified than this at least is wrong. May want to compare the pinouts at the transmission connection. More than likely all those gears not working is because current is not reaching the appropriate solenoids.

Your probably right. I never crosschecked the manual version. I should know better than to use words like "all' and "always". Always seem to be exceptions to everything.