Forester_Ranger

Just added a 2" body lift to my 2" suspension lift. I also added a Suba-Xtreme sump gaurd. And 29" Super Swamper TSL/Radials here's what my lifted forester looks next to a stock Forester With Lift and tires I now have 11" of clearence under rear diff.

can you make custom bumpers for Foresters.

I would like to see pictures of the EJ series vehicles you lifted.

svx Check Engine Code Instructions Directions for checking the Codes 1) Remove the kick panel just beside the left foot rest on the driver's side. 2) Locate blue wires. 3) Locate black connector. Hold it notch up. 4) With ignition off, insert one of the wires into top row, 2nd pin from left. 5) Turn key to on position, but do not start the car. 6) Watch blinky check engine light on dashboard. Count blinks. Long blinks = 10, Short blinks = 1. 7) Keep watching blinky light until you get mesmorized. To clear codes (after problem has been resolved): 1) With engine off, stick the blue wires to 1st and 2nd pin in the top row counting from left on the black connector, with notch facing up. 2) Start car. Shut off car. Remove pins. 3) Read codes to make sure they are clear. No codes = steady blinks at 1/4 second intervals. CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy) 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 14 Fuel Injector No. 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 15 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel Injector No. 5 and 6 (XT-6) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX) 16 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (XT) 17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX) 17 Fuel injector No. 1 and 2 (XT-6) 18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX) 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX) 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy) 23 Pressure Sensor (Justy) 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy) 24 Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve (Justy) 25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6) 26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy) 28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side) 29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2) 31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX) 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza) 36 Ignitor Circuit (Justy) 37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX) 38 Engine Torque Control (SVX) 41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 43 Throttle Switch (Justy) 44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) 45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models) 45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non- Turbo Models) 49 Airflow Sensor CODE PROBABLE CAUSE Continued: 51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models) 51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models) 52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy) 52 Clutch Switch (Justy) 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 56 EGR System 61 Parking Brake Switch (Loyale) 61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza) 62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza) 62 Electric Load Signal (Justy) 63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza) 63 Blower Fan Switch (Justy) 65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor To perform the TCU self diag test for EXISTING problems 1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph. 2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF. 3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on. 4) Turn ignition switch OFF. 5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON. 6) Turn ignition switch ON. 7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF. 8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON. 9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF. 10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off). 11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal. To perform the TCU self diag test for PREVIOUS problems 1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph. 2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF. 3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on. 4) Turn ignition switch OFF. 5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON. 6) Turn ignition switch ON. 7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF. 8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON. 9) Move selector lever to "D" and trun manual switch OFF. 10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off). 11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal. Trouble codes: 11. Duty solenoid A 12. Duty solenoid B 13. Shift solenoid 3 14. Shift solenoid 2 15. Shift solenoid 1 21. ATF temp sensor 22. Atmospheric sensor 23. Engine revolution signal 24. Duty solenoid C 25. Engine torque control signal 31. Throttle sensor 32. Vehicle speed sensor 1 33. Vehicle speed sensor 2

I asked myself this question too before I purchased my forester. forester has the same ground clearance as an outback but it has shorter wheelbase and better approach and departure angles. You can also get 2" suspesion and 2" body lift kits for them. I have a ea-82 dual-range tranny swaped in mine for better off-road gearing.

I have brackets similar to that in my forester and SVX for my XM and Sirius radios. I spent $26 each for them at Best Buy. I recommend that bracket.

I sure would like to see more pictures and info on the Forester. What size tires is he running? How did he get the track so wide? How much of the lift is suspension or body? And that bumper is almost exactly what i'm looking for.

Holy crap. His Forester is better than mine. I want his lift and bumper on mine.

look at a garmin gps V

You got allot of cool stuff on your website for the older subs. You planning on making anything for newer subs. I'm looking to getting off-road gear for my 98 Forester. I'm interested in heavy duty bumpers front and rear with brush guards, reciever front and rear for winch. As well as tow hooks and swing out tire and jerry can carrier. Also interested in getting a 4 inch body lift to go with my 2" suspension lift.

Hey cool looking Subaru. I'm not familiar with the GSR. Looks imported. what model years did they make the GSR and were they imported to the U.S.A? Which engine and drivetrain did they run? Please tell us more about the GSR.

I was told by someone on SVX.net that if you bring in all the parts to Small car they would charge $2000 for labor. it is a 16-40 hour job. I've seen people talk about doing it in one weekend. Even if it was a 40 hour job it should only take only one week tops. It took john over 2 weeks of about 1-2 hours of actual work per day. I also got quotes for $1800 at rallitek and another guy in Portland said he would do it for $800. Johns 1st estimate was $1400 then $1500 then $1600. After he finished he couldn't figure out how to hook up the cruise control. That is something I will have to figure out on my own because I'm afraid If I take it back to him. I won't see it again for a week or more.

I've been dealing with John for a couple years now. He is pretty honest but is terribly unreliable. His shop rates used to be real decent but are now approaching that of a standard shop. His price estimates have always been much lower than the final bill. And he never has your vehicle completed by when he says it will be. When He says a job will take 3 days it really takes over 2 weeks. When he actully does work he does good work. His biggest problem is trying to run a business from his home. He could have a smooth running very successfull business if he could figure out a way to seperate himself from his family and personal issues for 8 hours a day. but personal and family issues always come first for him. Most people who work 9-5 type jobs have to work there 8 hour shift and deal with personal and familly issues while off work. If John worked for an employer the way he works now. He wouldn't last a week.

Man your Outback it looking Sweet. Can't wait to see what it will look like after you lift it more and add a winch.

What do you mean by yea right. I think a Forester XT with low range 4wd and 3 inch lift would be awesome. Also with heavy duty bumpers and a winch.

I think the STI is the only subaru that comes with front LSD. Otherwise it is an aftermarket add on. You don't have either of those feauture on your Forester. EBD comes on XS and XT models. But VDC doesn't come on the Forester as far as I can tell. I think VDC is only available on certain Outback models.

On the Foresters you don't have much clearence on the rear where the strut hangs over the rear tire. Look at the clearence between the top of your rear tire and the strut. You'll see what I'm talking about. You'll probably only be able to go up to a 215/65r16 without the top of your rear tire rubbing the strut. And you will have a hard time finding an aggressive tire in that size. I have a 98 Forester L that came with 15" wheels and full-size matching spare . It came stock with 205/70r15 tires. With it at stock hieght I barely had enough clearence to run 205/75r15 tires. I always buy 5 tires also when replacing so I insure all tires match. Later on I had Mudrat on this board modify my struts to allow an extra 2" of tire clearence. I'm now running 215/75r15 with no rubbing issues and I can still go up one or two sizes. You can only run this size if you have your struts modified to allow for clearence. And it only affected my speedo by about 2-3mph at 60mph. I suggest you replace your wheels with 15" and get a set of Modified struts from Mudrat79. The modified struts will lift your car 2" and allow plenty of clearence to fit 27-28" mud-terrains.

I'm running on 27" Cooper STT's 215/75r15 on my Forester with 2" Strut lift and it doesn't rub on anything. Great tires.

Hey I like that fold down Subaru cup holder. I'm looking for something like that for my SVX which didn't come with any cupholders.

From the way your talking it still sounds like your plan hasn't been accomplished. Did you ever get a winch installed and how has it been working out for you?

For a Subaru I don't think you should go below a 6000# winch. that 8000# mile marker is a good choice since it will be able to pull 3900# on it's 5th layer.

Probably not. find out what your gross vehicle weight with gear is and times that by 1.5. That is minimun winch load rating you should get. I'm thinking of getting 8000-12000# winch for my Forester. Overkill is better than having the winch burn out on you because you needed another 1000# of load pulling power. Plus you can pull those stuck trucks out that are in your way.

For $100 more I would go for the 9000# winch. It has a thicker cable and it wieghs over 20# less than the 8000# winch. It looks exactly like the Mile marker winches I've been looking at. I watched a video from mile marker the other day. They showed that the 5/16" cables breaking around 9000# of load where as the 3/8" cable would hold up over 12,000# of load and still not snap.

I have had the mystery of oil raising and lowering on my 98 Forester a few times. There has been times I checked my oil and it was down below the low mark. I add a quart of oil and it brings it back up between the marks. then the next time I check my oil it will be way above the hi mark. So I think sometimes the oil just sits in the engine no draining back into the oil pan. Maybe it has to do with flat engines.

Do you have any idea what a price for a new or used 1.45:1 Dual-range would be in your area? Or could you give us some contact info for Salvage yards or Subaru Parts sellers that may sell these transmissions in your area? Because we in the USA have a demand for dual-ranges for newer cars but just can't find anybody willing to supply us with them.