foxgap

very true, looking around I do belive they offer a long block also, the pic is just for the short block.

looks like a good alternative, i was hoping for a complete rebuild or a long block. I really do not want to send the heads out for reconditioning and hoping to do the motor change in a weekend. Thanks again all, Mark

We are looking into getting a rebuilt engine for our 2006 Outback. We really like the car and since it is rust free, at the moment, replacing the motor seems a good idea. I would also get rid of the piston slap and high oil consumption, plus it is due for a timing belt again. Who have you all used? My mechanic is getting a price from Jasper, but I see there are others out there on the old interweb. JDM is out of stock on my engine. Your thoughts? Thanks, Mark

2006 Legacy Outback. When the windows are part to full down the glass rattles when the doors are closed. What do I need to do to tighten up the glass once I have the door panels off. Will I need parts that I can order ahead of time, I am sure the wife will not like driving around without door panels.... Thanks in advance for all your help, again. Mark

We found it and it was not functioning. Replaced it and 5 min later the brand new Subaru O2 sensor threw a code for low voltage. Got another one under warranty and now the car works just fine after setting the monitors. YEAH Mark

Thank you very much !!!!!!!!!!!!!

The heater circuit on the front O2 sensor is throwing a check engine lite. The O2 is brand new from Subaru. We know that it is behind the glovebox and is brown in color. But there are 2 brown relays there. We need to find out if it is the right relay or is it the left relay? What does the other relay do? Thanks all, frustrated Mark

I spent a few min yesterday afternoon putting the new fuel pump in, everything seems to be fine. The next few weeks will tell, my wife has agreed that running it to her work and back will be a great idea, so everything is a plus for me. Yeah!!!!!! Thanks everyone, if something else pops up I will let you all know. Mark

no codes in the computers , so far. Will the relay do stupid things like this? I know where that is, it is a PITA to get to but it can be done. I am going to drive it to work this morning and see how it runs. My buddy is on stand by with the rollback.

So I moved the car on Saturday and on Monday it will not start, sounds like the belt has snapped. But no, it has not. Horah! There is no fuel to the engine, it will start on 2+2 but not continue to run. OK it must be the fuel pump, no big deal. I buy a new fuel pump from Subaru, and today was the day to replace it. Just for the heck of it I try to start it again and it fires right up and runs perfectly. Car has 160K on it and the pump has not been changed that I know of. Any suggestions about what could have gone wrong the other day? My wife will not drive it in case she gets stuck somewhere, so I need to make it reliable again. Help! Thanks everyone, Mark

The first 2 mechanics swore it was in the front and I did have the front right replaced. It took an 82 year old retired mechanic 15 min to diagnose the right rear. The rear wheel had NO symptoms of wheel bearing problem other than a noise everyone swore was coming from the front. Sometimes two heads working on the problem are better than one.

HUGE UPDATE. After 2 years of whines and now a loud rumble I took the car to yet another mechanic. This time he is a retired tire and suspension guy and he diagnosed the problem an old school way. We took the car out on a back road with a hill, he sat in the back seat and as we started down the hill I popped the car in neutral and shut off the engine. Bingo, right rear wheel bearing screaming away. Yesterday he replaced it and the car is now stone quiet, well a little noise from the cupped tires, but I can live with that till the new ones come in the spring when I take the snow tires off. Thanks for all the comments, you guys are great! Mark

Thanks Guys, an alignment was done at the time of new tires. I am going to start hunting for a set a Subaru axels to reboot. I had problems with aftermarket axels before but they usually just clicked, no rumble but anything is possible with that crap I guess.

Thanks heartless, I am going to get a set of tires for spring. But this is what I found out this morning. I put the spare tire on the right front after checking to make sure the tire pressure was correct, took the car for a ride and the rumble is still there but at a different pitch. I think it is because it is a much thinner tire than the stock size. Then I put two snow tires on the front and took it for a ride again, pitch of rumble has again changed. Probably from the aggressive tread pattern of the snow tires. So the summer tires are back on again and I am no further to answer than I was this morning when I first posted.

All, I have been chasing this issue for a few months, 2 different mechanics and the problem is still there. The car is a 2006 Legacy Outback Wagon 2.5 Auto with about 160K on it. What I have is a rumble that starts at about 40 MPH. It does not change in pitch. I have had the right front wheel bearing replaced, the driveshaft replaced, center bearing was toast, rotated the tires front to back in case of cupping, drove the car and did a temp test on the bearings all around the car, temps were within10 degrees of each other. Several years ago I had both front axels replaced with aftermarket life time warranty axels from a parts store. I keep an eye on the diff oil, still clear and full on the dipstick. The diff oil was changed several years ago when I had the axels put in. The tires are Nokias at about 40% wear left, with cupping starting to show. The car drives perfectly, no binding or vibrations. Just this friggin noise. Todays project is pulling out the spare and putting that on the right front and see if the noise goes away. I may even bring the snow tires out and put 2 of them on the front and see what happens. Any suggestions are welcome, Mark