foxgap

with the extra draw on the eletrical system do I need to change the alternator to a higher amp one? I know I saw a thread about changing to a GM alternator, I haven't looked for it yet, but that could be a possibility if I need to go that route. The car is a 91 Loyale, automatic, 4 wheeler.

We got keys cut at the dealer for ours using the Vin. We took the whole car over to the dealer though. Maybe if you have a reciept from the yard that would work.

I got the cylinder back from the locksmith on Thursday morning and 20 min later the lock was in and the door panel back on. I did remove the bolt from the window track and losened the door handle enough to lean it out enough to get the spring clip back on. After that it was a simple matter of putting it all back together. On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty, 10 being send it back to the dealer, I would say this project was a 4. I would do it again in a moment. Thanks for all the advice, Mark

Thanks guys, That is how it looked but advice from someone who has done itis always better.

I have the old one out and the new one ordered. Now for the question, is it easier to replace the cylinder with the door handle off of the car or can I get that spring clip back in with the handle still on the door? It looks like 2 nuts and a clip will get the handle off. Is this corrrect? I don't want to start taking this apart yet, The locksmith has to key the cylinder first and I need to drive the car to work. Thanks all, Mark

I got the door panel off and found all the parts dry of lube. Got it all greased up and it worked perfectly. Horrah!!!! Until the tumblers in the cylinder let loose. I guess better here in the garage than somewhere else. The new cylinder is on order,the locksmith has been called and the old cylinder is out of the door. The next question is, is it easier to put the new cylinder back in with the handle off of the car? It looks like 2 nuts and a clip will get it off of the car. I can't get my hand in there to put that spring clip back in on the cylinder. Maybe I'm doing it wrong???? Thanks for all the help, Mark

Well it was a nice thought. Going out to the garage soon tostart tearing into the problem. I'm still hoping just a lube job willtake care of it.

Excellent suggestion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Weather is supposed to be really bad here tommorow. Sounds like a good day to work on the Subby in the garage.

The key locks the door but will not turn in the direction to unlock. At times the key will turn to unlock , but it feels like it is very tight or stiff to turn. All the doors lock with this key and the hatch unlocks locks with the key. Maybe a bent pice of linkage in the drivers door?

The drivers door on the Legacy is giving me problems. When the key is put in the door it will lock the doors but not unlock them. It is a new key from a dealer. Possibly that the mechanism inside the door needs lubed? If so I'll try to remove the inner door panel this weekend and silicone everything. I'm looking for a starting point at the moment......

I just went thru this with my Legacy. Mine the blower fan switch did not work at all, but when the the blower fan was jumped with a hot wire the fan ran fine. I replaced the relay, now all speeds are fine. The relay is behind the lower part of the dash on the drivers side. The easiest way I found to get to it was remove the cover under the steering wheel, get the computer out of the way, you don't have to disconnect it just take it loose and move it. Once that is moved you will see a hole between the side of the dash and the metal supports. All the way back at the firewall hang three relays in holders. One is the fan relay, mine was the bottom of the three, fuel pump relay and the ignition relay. Pop it out of it's holder and the wires are long enough to pull it out thru the hole and change the relay. It is a real PITA since you can't see it and have to do it all by feel. There are probably other ways of doing this, but this was my first and hopefully the last time.

Hey everyone I got it running!!!! Replaced the fused link from position one to position 2 and held my foot to the floor. Littlebugger was flooded!!! It runs like a champ now. Just got to get another fused link tommorow to replace the old one I borrowed and should be back in shape. Thanks to everyone here!!!!! Mark

Yeah, I pulled all the little buggers just to check. Fuse 16 runs the Fuel pump? The owners manual I have is REALLY vague. I have the back seat up ready to start checking that circut when I get home tonight. I think an investment in a shop manual is a step soon to be attempted.

I found Fuse link SBF2 bad. I swapped the link from SBF1 in it's place, Still no start. Let me guess, you need SBF1 also to make the engine run.

I am going to take the fuel pump relay to a shop to have it tested. Tonight if I can get a few moments I'll get to the fuel pump and check on that with a multimeter. While the relay is getting tested I'll get some 2+2 and see if the engine will start on that.

Just what the title says. I fixed the fan switch today, now I think the fuel pump has quit on me. Let me see if I am right, brown in color with six wires coming out of it? This is for a 90 Legacy wagon. The damn thing started last night, now nothing. As far as I can tell the pump is not making any noise...... Thanks again everyone. Mark

Well I got three relays from the junkyard, and the good thing is that they all WORK!!!!! The heater fan now comes on at all speeds. Now forthe next problem. See the next post for that one.

Seeing the diagram, I'm thinking it is the relay. I'm going to see my favorite parts car after work and grab the one that is in it. There is a legacy 4 door not far from that one also. Might as well get that one too.

This is on a 90 Legacy I picked up as a winter car. The previos owner had this problem with it and wired up a switch directly to the fan motor so I know the fan motor works. I picked up another heat/Ac control setup and installed it last night to find what I think is not the problem. After checking with a probe I find there is no power coming to the switch itself. Fuses are all good. What am I missing????? Any simple solutions??

I'm getting a couple of codes , code 35 and 22. Code 22 is knock sensor and 35 is purge tank circut. Question is, can the seliniod be tested to make sure it is good,bad? I have several here that I would like to check before putting them in the car. That seliniod is in a Ba#%^$d of a place. The knock sensor I found I can buy new online,but have not found the seliniod yet. Thanks, Mark

Thanks, I'll go loking for it today.

The new,1990,Legacy is throwing 2 codes. knock sensor and purge valve. I found the knock sensor under the throttle body but cannot find the purge tank selinoid. Anyone help me out? I did some yarding today for it and got a rear hatch for $10.00 today. I also found a few knock sensors but all were cracked. I'm sure those are no good. Thanks all!! Mark

I heard the same about Ertle. Becker in Allentown is a great place. A friend just bought an Outback from them and said the deal went like a dream.

Just picked up the 90 Legacy. I got the owner down to $225.00 for it. Put the plate on it and drove it home. Good deal. The great part is that the plate covers the hole in the rear hatch. I saw a post about a WRX shifter I think I will do once I fix a few other little glitches.

And I thought this was going to be easy. The main part I need is the rear hatch. The older car has a rot spot right below the window.