foxgap

All, I got this noise in the front area that I have been trying to diagnose, but it is time for the experts. Car is a 2006 Legacy Outback , 143K on the odometer. At around 25 to 30 mph the whine starts up and increases and decreases with the speed. I first thought it was back feed thru the speaker from engine noise. After a few checks of things I crossed that one off the list. So I am down to a mechanical noise. No clunks or clicks in turns. Yesterday I put a new set of tires on the car and the noise got quieter but is still there. I had hoped it was the snow tires but no such luck. Last week was a new set of rotors and pads all around. So what do you all think? Wheel bearing? Axel?

All, At one time I had a link to a website that sold this pipe for my 2006 Legacy Outback. It was an aftermarket stainless pipe with the front cat on it, really nice and a great price. Anyone know what I may be looking for? The flex pipe from the left head is starting to leak on mine and before it gets to bad I want to start looking at options. Thanks, Mark

Just an update for everyone, I replaced the plug wires and coil with NGK units, cleared the code and no check engine lite in over 200 miles of hard driving. The plug wires on the car were NAPA and the coil was a junk yard unit. Very easy job to do. Mark

Thanks Guys, I do not believe the wires are OEM or NGK. I am getting a code for #3 & #4 misfire every so often so the first thing we did is put a new set of NGK plugs in and the ones that were in were gapped way to wide. It always sets the code when the wife really jumps on the throttle hard at a stop sign or pushes the car real hard in a passing situation. Once the code is set I can't even notice that there is a fault, the car runs smooth and no misfires. She has set the code 3 times now and each time we read it and clear it it is always the same code.

I am going to replace the plug wires on the 06 Outback, they have close to 50K on them, and I need a suggestion of what brand to buy. I see NGK and Denso both make sets for the car. At the same time I am going to replace the coil pack, that has 140K on it, does any one have a suggestion on a replacement for that? Thanks all, Mark

May Have to do this, recyclers around have none and I cannot seem to find any used. Amazon has them listed but are around $40.00 each for OEM

Anyone have a set of 4 they would like to sell? I need a set for the winter steelies. Shipping to 18013.

I would never had thought of that, that is so friggin great!!!! Looking at your pic again and those are the same wires that are broken on mine along with two black ones

Thanks Guys . I will check that out in the AM and let you know what I find. I had a few min free so I went and pulled the passenger side accordian back and sure enough 4 broken wires in there. They are going to be a B&^$h to fix. I am going to try Brus's method first and extend the wires. They sure don't leave much wire there to hook up to.

I know this has been discussed several times, but I can't find any of the threads at the moment. So.... What do I need to do to get the rear lock to work with the fob again. At the moment the cover is off the lock mechanism on the interior and we lock it with the plastic lever inside the hatch. Time to get this fixed. Thanks for the help all, Mark

At about what mileage have you heard this is happening GD, and is there a recommended repair like the older motors?

I tried on one of the cars to get a reduction on the price because of the belt, but the salesman insisted that the warranty that he wanted to sell me for $2500.00 would cover the expense of bent valves if the belt let loose. That car has 113K on it, I think I am going to pass on that one. What the heck, I can get a belt installed for a lot less that that. He would not budge on the $9885.00 price tag and the car was for sale about 80 miles from here.

Ok, so that explains the no timing belt change on the CarFax reports I am looking at. Do these engines still have head gasket problems?

All, we are finally going to look into a newer Subaru, the 1995 Legacy LS has treated us well but it is time to move on. My question to every one is that all the Outbacks I have been looking at do not have the timing belt changed at around 90,000 miles. I thought this is a must on a Subaru 2.5. Am I wrong? The cars I am looking at are 2011 Outback 2.5I Premiums with a 6 speed trans, my wife and I like to shift gears yet, but this lack of timing belt change or head gaskets replaced before 100K miles has made turn down three cars already. Your opinions are always welcomed, Mark

Imdew, you have a PM

Many thanks for the posts guys, the car works for now but it does have a small bit of bind that I think is a bad set of clutches. Now that I have the part numbers to get the stuff I may have the basket welded up like Gloyale said. The guy next door has a weld shop in his garage and I am going to give him that project. For now I am going to put in the front drive fuse since I hope we don't get any more snow.

Thanks GD. Looks like I will be doing some junk yarding. At least I found the gasket # and clutches #. I will have to call and find out if they are still available.

All, it all started out as I lost the all wheel system in the car, I have front wheel only. Remove the tail shaft housing thinking that I need a set of clutches and NO that is not the problem. The problem is the reduction gear in the trans has broken, this is the part that slides into the part that holds the clutches in the tail shaft housing. We call the local dealership parts counter with the vin and no one seems to be able to get a part number for the broken gear, they say it is a discontinued part or the number has been updated and since it is updated they can't be sure if it is the correct part. Does anyone have a correct part number for this?????? All I want to do is press it off the shaft and press a new one on. Next problem is getting the correct part number for the clutches and the paper gasket for between the housing and trans. I was given a part number for the gasket and Subaru sent a metal gasket that does not even look like the correct one. Sent that back. I have a spare trans here that I scrounged parts from to get the car back on the road until I get all the correct parts to do the job right, bad thing is we don't know how long these used parts are going to last. The reduction gear basket has a lot of grooves worn into it from a set of worn clutches. It also may have the start of a crack near the bearing surface. Thanks in advance for any help, Mark

Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you all. So, last night the car went up on the lift and with the engine running and the car in drive we ran it. The driveshaft to the rear does not turn. With the engine off and the car in park we turned the rear tires and the driveshaft turned. Our feeling is that the clutch pack in the tail housing has quit. I have a spare trans that I will pull the tail housing off and swap it. In the mean time to cover our options is there anything electrical we can check before I get around to the swap? Remember there is NO check trans lite, the Duty C is about 2 years old and no electrical connections to the trans have been touched. The car runs fine in front wheel drive and shifts great, just no all wheel drive. Thanks, Mark

gotcha guys, Now I understand. I was under the impression that the pulley had to be clocked correctly. Once the bolt is tightened I could even just tack the pulley in place to keep it there. The motor is going to be put in storage anyway for just in case of down the road. It will not be sold. If anything I could use the intake and related parts for a swap.

Just wanted to update everyone still watching this post. The spare engine is in and running excellent. It is nice not to smell burning oil on the exhaust pipes anymore. We had a few minor glitches, a bad vacume hose to the EGR and a small exhaust leak at the front Cat, nothing that can't be fixed. I have took the bad crank motor to a local shop to repair the crankshaft. The owner has looked at it and feels he can weld and repair the snout in a few weeks. The damage is pretty bad, the slot is almost twice the size of the original keyway and the snout has a gouge about a 1/2" long leading away from the keyway. Thanks for all the great advice everyone!!!!! Mark

Ok, great photos. I have a spare trans here that we are going to pull apart and check to condition of the gear reduction. I had the similar problem with the car a few years ago and the only problem was the Duty C, so that is what got replaced. Could be that the basket and plates are worn now and that is what this problem is.

Oh, never gave that a thought. Car has an appointment next week to start checking different things out, I will let everyone know what we find. Thanks, Mark

All, how difficult is this job? I know there is a snap ring down in there and I am not sure I have the tools do get it out and back in again. The all wheel has failed on the car and I am not getting a trans check light like when the Duty C went bad last time. Just the front wheels are spinning in this wonderful snow storm we are getting here. Things ya don't notice on dry asphalt. Thanks again, Mark If anyone needs the part numbers here they are for a 95 LegacyLS 31523AA420 $108.46 Transfer pack 31337AA191 $6.43 Gasket 31377AA201 $3.61 O rings Subarupartsforyou.com

Mike, when the keyway went bad the whole belt slipped a tooth. Hence no power. The tensioner is shot also. Looking at the crank I don't think this one can be repaired, the key sort of twisted in the slot and ripped an angled path on the crank. As of right now both motors are on the floor getting some parts transferred between them and the spare motor is getting new seals and valve cover gaskets along with a metal separator plate in the rear to replace the plastic one. We should have it back together by Tuesday since we are working on it when the shop does not have other pressing work.