foxgap

My mechanic dug into the car today and came up with the answer to the no power problem with the car. The crankshaft key way has been destroyed. It seems when the belt was installed the bolt was not tightened enough and no threadlocker was used. We thought about welding up the crank but since I have a spare 95 motor with less miles we are going to change it out. The broken motor should be on the floor by now. As soon as this friggin snow melts a bit I can get to the parts car and get the motor out of it, resealed and installed. This really sucks, but this should make the car last quite a bit longer. Oh well, mystery solved. Thanks for all the suggestions and offers of parts, I appreciate it very much! Mark

All, We had some severe weather here starting Friday morning. Power and internet went out at 10 am and the power came back on around 3pm Sat. Internet came back sometime last night. Nothing has been touched on the car since Thursday. It may get worked on today if my mechanic has got his power back on, a lot of the area is still without and I hear now we are are getting hammered again on Wed. More updates as I get them on the car.

with all the spare parts laying around the shop for this car we should be able to figure something out this afternoon. Stay tuned for more news as I hear it.

This is what has been done to the car. New knock sensor new coil new wires new NGK plugs new coolant sensor both O2 sensors replaced Fuel pressure is 50lbs tonight we changed the computer, I have a 95 parts car here and pulled the computer from it, It is the same numbers as the one in the car and it threw a code for knock sensor. Pulled the computer out and put the original in, no more code. I just talked to a friend that used to work for a Subbie shop and he agrees that it is a timing issue. He suggested we clock the knock sensor with the wire pointing at the passenger seat 11:00 position. He also suggested getting a knock from Subaru not the Interworld one we got. After that we should pull the timing covers on the end and check to see if the belt is not off one tooth. The belt is about 1 1/2 years old Still no CEL this thing is starting to drive us nuts.......... Mark

The good news is that the cats are not plugged. We also live in an area of PA where we have emissions testing and they inspect for cats. The motor still is dead feeling, he ran his scan tool yesterday and found the rear O2 sensor doing all kinds of stupid things so when the replacement gets here today that is going to get changed. We checked the MAF and MAP sensors yesterday with no change. It has received a new coil, wires, plugs, knock sensor and coolant sensor this last week with no change in the motor except getting rid of the CEL. I dropped off a spare throttle body last night just in case. GD, just checked out that link for the replacement cats, great prices!!!!!

My mechanic is checking for plugged cats today and if they are plugged I am going to have to replace them. The car is a 95 Legacy that I bought 3 years ago for about $1000.00. I really hate to put a set of cats on it that are going to cost about that same price, Other than that the car runs nice with 190K on it. I would like to get a few more years out of the car and then replace it with a Legacy in the 2000's. Any suggestions on vendors?

got good news and bad news. We replaced the knock sensor and temp sensor and the CEL has not come back on. Knock had 6 cracks in it. Bad news is that the engine still feels dead when in gear, warming it up does help but not much. Monday night we are going to loosen up the head pipes and check for a blocked converters.

Thanks GD. Gonna have to look into one of those soon for here at the house. My friend has one at his shop that we used to figure out the problem with the last CEL. At 190K on the motor I think that replacing those two sensors may be good maintenance anyway. Mark

Thanks GD, I did not know that. Thanks for steering me in the right direction guys! I will change one at a time and see what happens. Will let you know how I make out.

No CEL at all right now, Wife says the car worked real good this morning after she warmed it up before heading to work. I would think the knock would through a code as would the temp sensor. But, I have been wrong before. Maybe we should hook up the scanner to it and see what happens when taking it for a ride when it is cold. Sound good?

All, this has been an ongoing problem, not serious, but a pain in the butt. Engine is 2.2 in a 95 Legacy automatic. 190K on it. When the engine is not total warmed up pulling out of a stop and traveling up a hill the engine has no grunt, won't kick down a gear for extra power and just feels dead. Warm it up and no problem at all, kicks down and off ya go. No CEL on anymore, I did have a misfire 3&4 but that has been fixed with new plugs, wires and coil pack. I also changed the fuel filter while I was in there. We checked the trans fluid and it is clear and was changed in 2017 with a new filter installed. Any ideas? Thanks, Mark

Thanks guys, The job does not sound all that complicated. Anything else I should do to the sunroof while I am up there? Lubrication or maintenance?

All, I have a water drip on the passenger side of the dash when it rains. It drips right from the bottom corner of the dash onto the edge of the rug at the door opening. I thought maybe the drain for the air was plugged, nope nice and clean. I pulled the fan and vacuumed 22 years worth of dirt out of it and still have the leak. SO, I am thinking sunroof drains maybe now. I opened the roof tonight and saw what I think are the drains, oval slot at the front in each corner, and my question is, how do you clean these and where do they empty out? If the one on the passenger side is plugged that may be my leak. One night this week I am going to cover the sunroof with a tarp and run a hose over the windshield to confirm my suspicions. Anyone else have a idea I might try? Thanks everyone, Mark

I started out with 400 grit. Then followed with 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit wet dry paper. After a good washing and letting them dry, a wiping with denatured alcohol followed by 5 coats of Rustoluem Gloss clear with UV resistance. The next day I sanded again with 2000 grit, wiped with alcohol and shot another coat of clear on them. The finish that I put on them is not absolutly perfect, but is MUCH better than what I started with. I was so pleased with them I did the headlights on my Chevy truck at the same time. If it warms up on Tuesday I may do the lights for the snowplow also.

I took the advice of a few people here and refinished my headlights. This was one of the easiest jobs I have ever done for our Subaru and as the before and after pics show was well worth it. Sanding the headlights and clear coating took about about 1/2 hour each. Just follow the You Tube videos and just can't go wrong. Mark

Ok, it looks like a wet sand project. I have a few sets of headlights from the parts cars so I will pick out the best 2 and give it a go. If that does not work it looks like china lighting. No need to take these apart and clean the inside of the lens right? Mark

So I am working on some of the final updates to the 95 Legacy and polishing the headlights is one of the projects. I see kits out there that supposed to clear the plastic up, has anyone used of these? I read one time to use brake fluid to clean the lenses and have tried that. It works for a little while, but I am looking for a longer lasting fix. How about brighter bulbs, the originals are not the brightest. I really do not want to go with projectors or anything else complicated like that. Any suggestions are appreciated, Mark

Thanks, That is what I thought. BTW the stuff is made by AMSOIL.

All, I am going to use this cleaner from a very good company, got a brain fart at the moment so I can't pull up the name. Should I disconnect the air tube at the throttle body or blow the stuff down the tube from the end at the air cleaner? If I do the cleaning right at the throttle body am I going to set a code? Car is a 95 Legacy 2.2 auto. Thanks, Mark

All, I had a bad vibration in the left front axle for a short time and thought that the axle had gone bad again. Thing about it was that the axle would make noise on a straight and in corners. Especially in corners uphill in passing gear. I took it to my friends shop and he did a simple test of the motor mounts and thought that the left mount was weak but not broken. He changed the mount today, no more vibration on the axle and it drives perfect again. I guess the angle of the motor and the angle of the axle in passing gear were way to much and caused a feeling almost like torque bind. Hopefully this is the last of the problems I have to get fixed for winter driving! Mark

I did the oil change at 500 miles yesterday, motor is quieter than it has ever been. It also seems stronger, probably my imagination. The Marvel Mystery Oil did a real clean on it, very very pleased. Next project is I bought a can of Amsoil foam cleaner for the engine. This is the stuff you warm the motor up and spray the foam down the throttle body as the motor is running. I used it years ago on one of my Fiero's and it made a word of difference on the 2.8 that was in it. Time to try it on the SOOB. Mark

UPDATE, the oil change now has about 250 miles on it. The lifter noise is GONE. While I was doing the oil change I cleaned the throttle body also, now the car idles much better as another plus. Karen will put about another 300 miles on it and I will do another change with 10w40. I will give you another update then. Marvel Mystery Oil did the trick!!!!! Mark

not sure yet, only got about 2 miles on it since the oil change. Wife's car. She will give it a good run today on her way to and from work. I'll pull dipstick tonight and check oi;l level and get a good listen then. Next oil change in 500 miles.

Ok all, finally got around to changing the oil tonight. I am putting 1 bottle of Marvel Mystery Oli in and topping off the crankcase with 10w 40. I will let you all know how we make out in a about 2 weeks or so. Mark

Marvel Mystery here I come. I will let ya all know how I make out with it. Thanks again, Mark