foxgap
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All, I have a noisy lifter in the 95 2.2 Legacy. On start up it taps away, then goes quiet, then decides to tap away again. When fully warmed it ticks every so often, but when revved the tap goes away. Motor has 190K on it. I am about to change the oil for the summer or how ever long it takes to get 3000 miles on it. 5w-30 in the motor at the moment. Should I put a bit thicker in it? 10w-40? I heard good things about Marvel Mystery oil also for cleaning lifters. Recommended? I may have the motor pulled this summer to cure an oil leak I think is coming from the separator plate, should I have lifters changed at that time? Thanks again, Mark
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All, what is the easiest way to replace the outside door handle on my 95 Legacy LS? I had a door painted, took the handle off that door and it was a real pain to get that 10 mm bolt out from behind the glass slide. I thought I would try a different way to put it back on, but would not like to remove the glass and slide to do it. Has anyone drilled a hole through the slide to get a 10mm socket through it? Maybe open a hole big enough to get a swivel socket through the door sheet metal? I would have just changed the lock but the door handle is body colored and is in great condition. Mark
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Capitol still has a small U pull, not very much at all. I can try Harry's in Allentown one weekend, they should have it. I took the old contacts and plunger out and replaced them with a new kit from Amazon, did a quick clean of the rest of the starter. Could be I did not clean or lube enough. The old contacts and plunger were worn pretty good. The starter does click and then with the help of someone I can give it light tap on the starter itself and the car starts right up.
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All, I replaced the selenoid contacts in my starter about a month ago, one of the easiest jobs I have done on the car since I have had it. Now a month later every so often it is acting up again. Just like before but when I tap the starter up near the bell housing it seems to fix the problem for about 2 weeks of starts. I hate to go get a new starter if there is something I missed when I did the contacts, any suggestions? Thanks, Mark
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Well everyone, today was the DAY. I just picked up the car from the shop and as I pulled out of his drive, I floored it and.... NO SLIP!!! Got AWD finally!!! No torque steer, no more spinning front tires, no more ATF light flashing 16 times. Car handles great, got to go looking for a good twisty road to see how it sticks to it. Thanks again to everyone that helped with this project with their comments, they really made a huge difference. Mark & Karen
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I have been to all of the Harry's, the one in Allentown just had a big fire, not sure if they are open yet or not. I just did not have the time to go junkyarding this month. It was just easier to buy it and have it shipped to get the lift cleared. I know the shop where the car is is supposed to put a motor in a Sebring conv. this coming Monday so time is at a premium.
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Thanks Dave, Today's update!! We found the part we needed at a transmission recycler in Brooklyn NY. Shaft, Bearing and drum came to $125.00 shipped and since we are so close to NY it came overnight. It is now in the trans. I also ordered two sealing rings for the clutch side shaft from Subarupartsforyou.com, they also came overnight from Conneticut. The wireing harness has been OHM ed out and as far as we can see in perfect shape. One thing about that though, we were tracing the wrong wire earlier, black with a yellow stripe, that wire goes to the speed sensor. Oh well, live and learn. Paul is away on Saturday, so the car should be done on Monday afternoon....... Sorry about my spelling... Mark
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Gary, you have a PM. For the rest of you this is what we have found in the extension housing. The AWD viscous clutch drum is broken into two parts. Pics can be seen here exactly what mine looks like, http://mdhmotors.com/subaru-all-wheel-drive-system-failures-repair/ The Duty C is also bad and we are trying to find the wires in the harness to test the wires. According to Shop Smith the Duty C wire is black with a yellow stripe, somewhere inside it changes to red and connects to the Duty C. We think.... The wires go inside the trans on the side , is there a way to release these wires from the outside so they can be tested or replaced? Just trying to do this right the first time. Thanks All!! Mark