foxgap

Just an update, the glass shop found that with the cowl cover removed that there is a hole for one of the pins that hold the plastic piece in place was not doing it's job. When I was pushing the pin in place, the first wind that hit it, the pin popped up and water was running down that hole right into the cold air box. They replaced the pin and uerathaned it in place and so far niether hurricane Irene or any other rain has been dripping into the car. Nice thing about it also was that it only cost $37.10 in labor.

Yep, done that. Actually pulled the wheel well liners out and back flushed from there just to make sure I got it all. I have an appointment at the local glass shop to pull the windshied out this coming Wed. There might be rust under it that is letting water in. I'll try anything right now.......

Car is a 96 OBW and after doing a search I have cleaned the drains under the cowl, cleaned the AC drain in the heater box and it still lets rainwater on to the pass. carpet when the car sits. The funky thing is it does not leak when the car is moving. I removed the fan motor and also found the drip was also coming from a foam seal near the motor. I took a hot knife to that seal and once it was cleared out I replaced it with marine RTV. I also put the RTV around the fan motor seal to seal that up better. The drips have slowed down a bit, but are still coming in every so often. One rain it will leak the next it won't. I'm to the point if we hear it is going to rain hard I pull a tarp over the windshield and the car stays dry. You would think that if the windshield needed sealing it would leak all the time. Any comments are welcome cause if I can't find this problem I'm gonna trade the bugger in on a 97 OBW near here that DOES stay dry.

Think we have found the problem, bad Mass Air sensor and a broken vacum line to the Map sensor. I'll find out tonight when we clear the codes again.

Thanks all, I'll give it a go tonight at my friends shop. If it throws the code again at least I can clear it right away and start again.

The Outback is a 2.2 5 speed Legacy wagon with 172K on it and it is throwing a code of P0106 which is the Mass Airflow Sensor code and I have been given 2 used sensors to try. One is from a Legacy and the other is from a Impreza. Both were 2.2 motors. Niether car is running at the moment. Is there a way to test these before I install or should I just squirt them with a little electronics cleaner, install, clear the code and go for a ride and hope for the best? The motor in my Legacy has just been tuned, new water pump and valve cover gaskets along with all filters changed. Thanks, Mark

Now there is a good question, I did not do the tank change, so I can take it back to where I had it done and have them check it. I know I could do it myself, but why.... Will a quick down shift and a rev cure this as in my situation?

Thanks for the suggestion, I will locate it and check it. In meantime any more ideas?

Car is a Nov. 95 2.2 5 speed. 177K on the odometer. It hesitates when I slow down to take a curve or start up a hill where the engine needs to lugg a bit and as soon as I stab the gas it bucks till I downshift 1 or 2 gears then there is no problem. I also have a 90 2.2 5-speed that I take the same curves or hills the same way and it just takes off. No need to down shift. Just replaced the gas tank with a low miliage unit and I have no idea when the timing belt was changed last. Other than the bucking issue the car just plain rips along on the highway. I did a search and most of the problems that came up were at warm up hesitation and my problem seems to be when the car is already warmed. Thanks all, Mark

OK, The car was built in 10/95. Will this make a difference? When I changed the gas tank I had to get one from an 85 cause the Jan. 96 tanks are different. Like I said this is an early one. If I need to look for adjustments what should I see? Thanks All!!!!

Great news. One thing less to do.

Car is an early 96 Legacy OBW, 2.2 , 5 speed. I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets soon and wondered if I need to adjust the valves while I have the covers off. 175K on the motor. The reason I ask is the we have a 90 Legacy with 291K on it and I don't think we have ever had the valves adjusted on that.... Thanks, Mark

This is what I did on Sunday morning. I removed the cowl cover and looked in the space for a lot of debris. Nothing big just some seeds. I then removed the pass. wheel and the plastic inner wheel well and since I did not know where the drain was took the garden hose to the space under cowl and washed out the space. At first the flow was slow and then it picked up with a lot of fine dirt coming out from the cowl space. So I am assuming that the drian was plugged up. I also removed the fan from under the dash and checked that space for dirt. Some seeds and dirt but not near what was in the cowl space. I put it all back together and now have to wait for a good rain storm again, which might be a while cause the temp here this morning was 25 degrees and snowing. Come on SPRING.....

Goof, Open up your doors and look on the bottom, you will see a hole in the metal that leads right into the area where your window rolls down into. Those are the weep holes. They get leaf debris and dirt in there and it clogs them up. Rust starts and will rot the bottoms off the door in no time at all.

Oh I know about the weep holes in the doors alright. When I bought the car it came with 4 used doors cause the doors were rotted up about 2 inches from the weep holes being clogged. I am leaning toward the drains clogged because of this. I'll find out Sunday morning when I rip into it again. I just put the rug back after drying it overnight and the weather is supposed to be dry until then. I'll let you all know what I find Sunday afternoon.

No sunroof Gary.

Will do. I did another search and came up with a thread from 2005 that recomends removing the pass. wheel well and cleaning the cowl drain there also. I'll try anything once.....

Car is a 96 Legacy Outback. I've searched several times for this and the best I have come up with is that the drain for the AC is clogged. So three times I have pulled the rug up, taken out the computer, took the rubber drain hose off and shoved a wire and compressed air up that tube. The bugger is CLEAN. I've turned on the AC and the fan on high and feel a steady stream of cold air come out of the tube. Reassembled the whole thing after drying out the rug and tonight the thing is wet again. We did have 2 1/2 inches of rain today while the car was parked outside at work so I am guessing it is rain water. Is it possible the windshield is leaking??? Water draining inside the car from the defroster intake???? Anyone have an idea where I can start looking???? This is really starting to become a PITA. I really do not want to have Weddes Auto pull the dash cause I am sure that is not a cheap project.....

I just got done replacing all the doors on my 96 OBW and I am sure I might have one of those laying around. If I don't have one off, I know I have the whole regulator you can have for shipping cost. Email me your address if you are interested. hoaglanm@epix.net Mark

Just had a clutch done in my 96 OBW. I bought an Exedy clutch, which is a direct OEM replacement, and the shop pulled the trans. $300.00 labor and the clutch cost me $180.00 with tax from Keystone. Best thing I ever did for this wagon.

Got my car back last night. New Exeday clutch installed and ALL shudder is gone. The previos owner must have been real rough on the pedal cause the old clutch was just about down to the rivets after only 24K on it. Clutch cost was about $180.00 from Keystone and $300.00 labor at Weddes. I'm happy just to be able to drive it agin without it sounding like the drivetrain is falling out.

I have the same problem with my clutch. Weddes is going to put in a new Exedy on Monday. They say the same thing, cheap clutch disc making it chatter. This morning it was REAL bad, it shook the entire drivetrain before I feathered the clutch. While they are in there I want the seperator checked and rear main along with the imput shaft. The hillholder is going to be hooked back up also. That thing is great here in hilly country.

Just went thrugh this with my OBW. The "T" is on the inside of the frame rail just in front of the tire on the passenger side. We were replacing the gas tank at the same time so it made replacing the lines real easy, not that the tank job was fun time at all. We used copper coated steel line that is not supposed to rot from the liquid salt they use here.

What you say is very true. Like I said the one bolt took an hour and a half to remove. Gently moving it back and forth and spraying it with PB Blaster until it let go. We could not use the heat wrench because of the leak in the tank and gasoline fume hazard. The liquid salt that is used here on the roads IS the culprit. Anything it comes in contact with for a long time and is not coated it will rust. That is why the brake lines had to be replaced, the stuff just pitted the metal until they broke.

You could, this was his second that he has done. Due's Automotive 610-588-6194. Mind you it was not cheap, course he redid all the rear brake lines and part of the exhaust at the same time. One bolt was a SOB that took almost an hour and a half to get out and that bolt had to come out to get the tank down. With all the extra work he did while he was in there it was a day and a half job. The other shop I use is Weddes Auto near Bath PA 610-837-6411. He does a ton of Subaru work and has probably 20 Soobs for sale at any time. I just could not get the car there with the blown brake line. His estimate was $300.00 to replace the tank with one that I bought.