SaltCar

Put a little pressure in the system and you may be able to find the leak with soap bubbles. There are some good forums for DIY A/C work. They will walk you through it step by step and sell you what you need to fix it right. I saw a post somewhere someone said they got AC tools from AutoZone under their free tool rental program. Link to good A/C information. The same site also has good forum. http://www.aircondition.com/tech/

I got parts from a '90 and a '92, 2.2, Legacy wagons. Prices were ridiculously cheap so I grabbed a bunch of other stuff. I am not that familiar with Subarus so I didn't know the best stuff to get. I got a couple alternators and a starter, stuff like that. I am interested in that filler neck if I haven't found one by then, thanks.

I took a stab at this today and it looks like there is a slight difference in the length of the filler neck up top where it mounts to the body. It is obvious when looking at the parts side by side after you know what to look for. The one from the older car is about a quarter or half inch longer. If you wanted to make a project out of it, it could be cut and welded to fit but that new part for $89 is sounding pretty good right now. There is a metal section of the vent hose that goes through the "frame" rail that looked untrustworthy also. The one from the junkyard fit there ok. The difference in condition between the parts from the salt car and the southern junkyard cars is very impressive. The junkyard parts are good as new. Right now the idea of cutting the neck and replacing it with a hose sounds kinda iffy. This thing bends around a couple curves and the hose will be rubbing on suspension, etc.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58424 Check this thread. I posted my experience there. I lowered regular bolts with large washers down throught the holes I drilled in the "frames". Half wrap wire around bolt under washer so the wire holds the washer from falling off. When the bolt comes out of the hole, grab it and hold it while you pull the wire out. I did have to tighten one with an impact wrench to keep the bolt from turning. Could tack it if you have access to a welder.

Thanks for the numbers. I got two real cheap from a u-pullit yard today but they are from '90-'92 cars. They look like they will work. Won't know till I try but now it's raining, maybe tomorrow. Since these parts fit the fuel system and the jump was made to OBDII in this stretch of years I am hoping that the difference is all in the paperwork. Wish me luck.

Thanks for the quick reply, I called the local dealer and they want $150 bucks for the filler neck. The guy at the junkyard said I will probably be lucky to find one in the junkyard because they cut them when they take out the fuel tank. If I am not careful this car could $100 me to death. It is a Maine car with over 200K miles on it. It has very little cash value and I will only get a return on my expenses by driving it. I want to get some more use out of it before I spend too much on it. After my first round of fix-up and preventive maintenance it has proven to be a reliable vehicle. Fix up was mostly extensive cleaning, exhaust work and a new windshield. There are a couple decent earlier model legacy wagons in the yard, 89-94? What else would be good to grab? Alternators, starters, hatch hardware? I am still not up on expensive subaru parts. I'll run some searches on junkyard scavenging too.

My filler neck is rusty and leaks on my 1996 Legacy wagon. I patched it but want a new one. I am in the south right now and can get one rust free from the junkyard. What years will this part swap between? I don't care if the style of the gas cap changes or about any other tight a$$ed emission standard details. The part number doesn't have to be the same if it works. I just want a filler neck that won't leak for a reasonable amount of money. I can't find one for a 1995-6. Will one from 89-94 work?

There are so many timing belt threads that searching is not effective. This is one thread that seems to cover the subject pretty well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2455 This post covers about 98% of everthing said in all of the timing belt threads combined. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=19460&postcount=37

I recently drilled holes to mount the hitch on my '96 Legacy. It was really easy, wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Use a piece of wire to lower the bolts through the holes. Your car doesn't have a frame, it is a unibody, all sheetmetal.

I just recently bought these parts. The local dealer charged me $27 for the bracket and $11.60 for the handle.

Could still be your ignition switch. Several different circuits are completed when you turn your key, you need a wiring diagram to understand.

Look for four matching tires and an unused spare. Different size tires may cause AWD problems. Watch out for Hurricane Katrina cars.

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like if I use the intake manifold from the new car and use the header pipes from the old car, it could work. It just so happens that my car is the last year of OBDI. Swapping that engine into an OBDII car may not be worth it. My preference is to sell the old car and buy a newer one from outside the rust belt. If the old car attracts no new owners I may go the swap route. edit: I sold the '94 and bought a '96 - thanks

What kind of problems would I have if I swapped my engine from my rusty 1994 Legacy wagon to a 1995 or 1996 wagon? Assume I will be working with two whole cars originally equipped with 2.2 engines. Legal problems are not part of the question, just technical problems.