somick

In case somebody needs it: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1073921 Sam

Another way to bleed the cooling system: Park on a hill nose up with radiator cap removed. Sam

My Loyale came with Bosch from the factory. I am on the third Bosch now. No problems what so ever. Sam

See if that can help you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=268&pictureid=3271 Sam

As far as I know you cannot adjust idle on EA82. Computer takes care of it. Sam

http://www.allsubparts.com/LOY--001_1992_parts.html Try this web sites, Good luck, Sam

I hate to hear this! It has been said many times: "Do not use rockauto!" Try 1stsubaru website. Good luck, Sam

See it that link can help you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110306&page=2 Good luck, Sam

I am at work now and do not remember the set up on my Loyale, but I would measue the resistance on those cables. The one with zero or close to zero ohms would be the ground. Good luck, Sam

There is a very good instructions made by Miles Fox here on how to replace a timing belt. They may be in the "Repair Manual". It helped me a lot. And yes, it is recommended to replace timing belts every 60,000 miles. I would replace water pump as well. Good luck, Sam

Try to post this question in the "Older Generation" It belongs there. The vents are controlled by a vacuum. Check the conditions of a white canister and hoses to it. The canister is located on the passenger side close to firewall inside the engine compartment. Good luck, Sam

Check if you have ATF in modulator's vacuum line. Good luck, Sam

The tech most likely did not hook the test machine correctly! I checked everything I could myself and found nothing. I decided to pay them for diagnostics. Guess what? They hooked their equipment, test it again and I passed. For those who need information on this problem here is sources I was able to find: http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38910 Here is some excerpts from that page: Checking for faulty canister: Detach the canister from the firewall. Detach the intake tube hose and put your fingers on the end of the canister inlet fitting. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, then increase the engine speed to 2500 rpm. If the canister is functioning correctly, air will be drawn into the canister through the inlet tube and you will feel suction. If you don't feel suction, replace the canister. this is for those who have fail the EVAP during the functional smog test. === We pinch off the vapor line from the gas tank at the cannister and put an adapter in the filler neck and pump a 1/2 lb of pressure into the tank. The test machine checks for small leaks. This being said it is either the tank, the filler neck, or the vapor line from the tank to the cannister. Included in "tank" is the seal for the fuel pump/ sending unit. Sam

92 Loyale, FWD. 170000 miles. Failed smog with FUEL EVAPORATIVE CONTROLS FUNCTIONAL. Googled for solutions. They say that I need to chase a line from the fuel tank to the canister. There might be a cracked hose or something. Can anybody provide more details on that? I would guess that a fuel cap might be at fault as well. Thank you, Sam

See if that can help: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Sam

I started a similar thread about a year ago. I replaced mine with a regular hose and as a result failed a smog test. They want emission hoses only! Automotive stores do not carry emission hoses that size (5/8''). The only option I found was dealer. Good luck, Sam

It may be too late but if the caliper is screw-in type he needs to make sure that the bump in the pad is sitting in the groove of the caliper. Good luck, Sam

How about regular maintenance items: distributor cap, wires, spark plugs? Sam

Yes, that what Haynes manual says, but on my Loyale it works the other way around. Any way, the two green connectors that need to be shorted are located under the hood. They are at the driver side at the very top, near the fire wall. To the right of the fuel filter. Try checking codes with and without connectors shorted. Good luck, Sam

There is a lot of information here on the board about how to read codes. You will need to go no your knees and open a knee bolster (under your steering wheel) I think about 6 screws total. You wil see a silver rectangular box there (your car's computer). If you move wires a little down you will see a tiny bulb on the car's computer. They call it O2 sensor. Put your key in the ignition and turn it to on, but do not start the car. You will see O2 sensor start flashing. Count short and long flashes and come back here. Somebody will help you decode the error code. Good luck, Sam

I think there was one in Oakland... Sam

Check the L shaped hose at the back of the TB. Good luck, Sam

Pipe wrench. That what I usually do. It will distroy the had but I do not know of any olther method. I asume you have already tried impact wrench. Good luck, Sam

I am surprised why you guys help promote this site. Subaru made plenty of money on us. When my time comes and I have to pay them I will definitely post everything here. Sam

Open a panel below the steering column. You will see your ECU with a tiny bulb in the center. Turn you key to ON (motor not running). Count how many blinks you have. Come back here and search for answers. Good luck, Sam