somick

Just in case you did not find that thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61165&page=2 Sam

To my understanding WD-40 is pretty harmless. But I would rather stick with something dry. Someting like graphite powder. Sam

Hello Redloy! Welcome to the forum! About two week ago there was a thread about automatic shoulder belts. If you do "search" you will find it easyly. What I understand from your post something might be stuck in the rail. Try to look inside. I would also try to lubricate it. Dry graphite may be a good thing to try. Sam

My mistake! I mistook it for AC. Sam

My 92 Loyale required Dexron II. Since they stoped making it I used Dexron III. Works fine. Sam

My 92 Loyale does the same. I think this is normal. Sam

It does look like a right hose! It is too late for me though! I prepaid my order. Sam

I guess any puller with two claws. I use craftsman, but I do not know what part number it is. When you ready to separate the joint, unscrew the nut only few turns. Do not remove it completelly. Then apply the puller. This trick I have learned from Haynes manual. Good luck! Sam edit: you may rent puller from Autozone.

I have been fighting with this hose for a couple of years already. Automotive stores do not cary special hoses that size. At least the ones I went. Regular hose works for about a year. So yesterday I gave up and ordered one from the dealer. Cost me 12 dollars. It should be delivered on Friday. If you need a part number let me know. This Friday I will know if I ordered the right one!!! Sam

Do not worry! You sound just all right! Yes, you will need a puller to disconnet the tie rod end. You will also need a punch to drive a spring ping from the DOJ to pull the axle from the transmission. That is about it. Regular wrenches 12, 14, 17 will of course be handy. Sam

After you rotated the crankshaft one full turn, did you check the marks on the cam sprokets? They suppose to point one up and one down. Sam

In my 92 Loyale in order to check codes I suppose to connect green connectors. They are located under the hood, right next to the fuel filter at the driver side. And make sure the "check engine" light is on before checking for codes. Otherwise you will get only the model description. Good luck, Sam

Automotive stores sell them for 3 dollars for a set of two! Sam

St Nickolas is right. A lot of automotive stores will check your alternator for free. Just make sure you will be able to get back home safely. If you have a digital voltmeter, test your alternator while it is running. You should get a reading of 14.6 if I remember it right. If the car is not running the reading at the battery terminas should be about 12.6 volts. Sam

To me it looks like a classic sign of a bad alternator. Sam

Quote from Haynes page 6-15: Code 55 - EGR gas temperature sensor circuit open or shorted (see Section 14) That what most likely causes the rough idle! Sam

I am glad I could help. By the way mine on the passenger side of the rear door is dead, but I have never been able to get it out. It is held by two smal screws, but in the back of the screw there is some kind of a square threaded plate. I broke off a small metal piece that holds this plate and it just spins around. Since I do not have a replacement I simply quit. You will see what I am talking about when you remove the decrative panel from the door. It is not that hard. Sam

Yes, when you lock/unlock your driver side door lock, all door locks/actuators recieve a signal and lock/unlock their corresponding locks. If the actuator is dead it would not do anything. So you will have to do it by hand. I hope that that was your question. Sam

Hey Alec! Do you have problems with your electric door locks? If that is so, your problem is a door lock actuator. The actuators are probably dead. I have tried to replace mine on the passanger side rear door, but quit since I did not have a replacement. The screws kept spinning. Sam

Yes! I do not know. They probably work separately. I do not remember the code for the purge control solenoid. Look for codes in the "Repair Manual" section of this site. Purge control solenoid is a different one. It is located in the same area where the EGR solenoid is. Looks a little different: no button on it. The connector is blue if I remember it right. As far as I know you do not adjust idle speed on Subaru. Do a search for "idle" and you will find a lot of information for this. Sam

The heater is not electrical. Have you physically checked continuality of fusible links. They may look good but still be burnt. Haynes repair manual suppose to have a wiring diagram. You can also take a look at "How to keep your Subaru alive": http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57809 Sam

Try this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57809 Sam

Yes if they spin, carefuly pry them out. I put them back in and added some glue. It worked for a while. Just make sure you do not tighten them too hard when reassemble. Some guys leave the covers off, but I still put them back on. Sam

How does she know that this is a water pump? If she is right, in order to get to water pump you need to get to timing belts. Do a search for timing belt and you get all the information you need. It takes me about 3-4 hours to change belts. Sam

On my 92 Loyale that was a sighn of a bad thermostat. On highway it got good air flow and cooled itself pretty well. My electric fan comes on only when I use air conditioner. Is your main fan also electric? Mine is mechanical. So there is a possibility of a mechanical failure. Sam