somick

My bad. Yes this is the one. I installed a new bearing yesterday and I am back on the road. Just for reference the new bearing is 6202-2RS. I got two from Amazon for six dollars.

... and next step - check the idler bearing for the power steering pump (the smaller belt). That what failed on my 92 Loyale two days ago. Not bad for 189000 miles.

Coat a new o-ring with some RTV and you will be fine. I did mine in 2005 and it is still holding (fingers crossed!). Good luck, Sam

So true! But can mods move this thread to the off topic discussions!

Napa Platinum is a very good filter. However I still do not know if we need it for regular driving style. The filter is more expensive though.

Update. While checking everything out I also checked the belt that I installed about 5K miles ago. It looked fine but I decided that a little more tension will not hurt. That fixed everything. Apparently it slipped a little with the engine cold. Now everything is back to normal. My thanks go to @1 Lucky Texan for the idea of checking the hoses, etc.

Thanks! I will check it out this weekend.

Thanks Texan! Have you found the point where the air was entering the system?

2010 Forester with 90000 miles. About 3000 miles ago I changed the power steering fluid with the Dexron III. Everything was fine but recently it developed a problem: when the motor is cold the power steering starts binding. To avoid binding I put the transmission in neutral, raise the RPMs a little and the problem goes away. I do not experience any problems with the warm engine. YouTube search shows that I probably have sticking valves in the power steering rack and recommends Seafoam TransTune. Has anybody used it? Will it help? And the main question: did I cause it? I am looking for some help/suggestion, Sam

I hope you will find a replacement. I have the same problem. Good luck, Sam

That is pretty much how my 2010 drives. The Sport mode helps a little but not much. The manual mode does not help either.

Wow! And in summer the temperature must be shooting up to 25 Celsius . Try to lubricate all the cables. That helped me on my 2010 Forester. Spray channels with the silicone spray. May help. Good luck, Sam

What Garry said! Do the gravity bleeding, one wheel at a time, and you will be fine. Just make sure you watch the fluid level in the Master Cylinder. Good luck, Sam

As far as I remember from my 2010 owner manual AC works depending on the load. So it might be the case. Good luck, Sam

That is how I removed my Honda crank bolt:

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW4MFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 One thousand miles down the road still no problems. Sam

The easy thing to check, like others mentioned, is a distributor cap and rotor. Good luck, Sam

I went through the same thing: as far as I understand the smaller ones go to the Y pipe. For the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold I used Fel Pro 93227. Good luck, Sam

I would not trust roach auto! but I have always thought that you can rebuild the wheel cylinder. Plenty of rebuild kits on Amazon. It is interesting to know if it works. Good luck, Sam

Funny! Eight bolts and the cam tower is out. The only problem is if you have a bad back but I still managed to do it fairly easy. Follow idosubaur's procedure and unscrew those bolts little-by-little until you can grab the rocker arms. After this no problem whatsoever. Good luck, Sam

After you take care of the mating surface pay closer attention to the metal pipe seal. Aftermarket seals suck! I coat them with silicone RTV and they hold. Good luck, Sam

I ran my finger around pulleys but could not find anything wrong with them. The belt is original - 87K on it. I installed Bando from Amazon. So far so good. Thanks, Sam

As per owner's manual I used to replace belts every 30K miles. Now I am reusing the old ones . So far so good. Sam

Update: Found this. Still disappointed - the car has only under 87K

I failed smog because of the regular hoses. Get ones from the dealer. That was the only source I was able to find. Good luck, Sam