OB99W

These give details on the reluctors, sensors, etc.: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf There are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info -- in the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly.

Probably them: Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc. (CRS) 400 Corporate Drive Mahwah, NJ 07430 Owned by ATC; see: http://www.secinfo.com/dRqWm.88Na.htm I believe Mahwah is a distribution location.

One assumes they're new. Now I'm having a hard time separating sarcasm and self-deprecating humor from fact . Either way, put a warmed engine through its paces. These links cover most of the useful engine tests using a vacuum gauge:http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=ad&aid=47 http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Be sure to include the non-idle-speed testing; the results of both slowly and rapidly revving to about 2000-2500 RPM and closing the throttle can be very revealing. Of course, if there are concerns over things like rings or valves, a compression and/or leakdown test (wet and dry, as Nipper mentioned) would be useful. I like to start with a vacuum gauge because it can tell a lot, and is easier to do than pulling plugs, especially on (ahem) certain engines . I've seen too many weird circumstances to ever say "never".

I say thou art answering specific questions with generalizations. However... Let's assume that when you "lightened the flywheel", you didn't somehow affect the crank reluctors or sensor (the degree of engine loading might cause their physical relationship to change enough to momentarily lower sensor output, if there's sufficient play). "Good" engine operation requires a free-flowing exhaust, a free-flowing intake that can be throttled as needed, and well-sealing valves and rings so it can pump efficiently. Bad head gaskets can throw some of that out of balance. If you snap the throttle shut after revving, the closed throttle should cut off most air (which indirectly should cause most fuel to also be cut), and the engine revs should drop rapidly while the intake vacuum jumps up. Slow response to a rapidly-closed throttle could indicate a vacuum leak, or leaks at the injectors, etc. A vacuum gauge (and the knowledge to use it and interpret readings correctly) might help quite a bit in resolving things. On the other hand, so might a new engine.

The exhaust smell combined with emptying the recovery tank (even if it took 3000 miles) is a sign that at least one HG is significantly leaking. So, as I mentioned, it would seem that the trouble probably isn't related to ignition. However, you didn't answer my question about idle speed (RPM) and quality (smooth/rough/loping/etc.), which can be a clue to other possibilites. You're welcome.

Yes, as far as I know New Jersey (where FSRBIKER seems to be from) only uses OBD-II to check for generic powertrain (P0xxx) codes (mainly the emissions-related ones), so ABS problems shouldn't be revealed that way. Braking is tested by performance alone (or was, anyway, when I lived there); if the parking brake holds when the car is lightly accelerated in gear, and the service brakes can pull enough "g" force and are properly balanced, the car passes the braking test.

Even if it "feels like it is perfectly well aligned", alignment should still be checked, as things sometimes get bent, loosen, or could perhaps have been misadjusted initially. If the wear is affecting only one tire, camber could be out at that wheel. However, a tread/belt separation in that tire could cause a similar wear pattern, and wouldn't usually show up as an alignment issue; also, rotating the tire wouldn't change the wear pattern much if separation is the problem.

The '96 was the first that got the 2.5, but only in an OB with auto trans; the manual models had a 2.2, so I assume you were looking at a manual.

There's nothing good that causes significant HC levels in the coolant . However, if you're not blowing coolant out of the recovery tank, you might not need to rush to HG replacement. Keep in mind that cylinders 3 and 4 are paired in the wasted spark arrangement. A bad coil in the pack or even just one bad ignition cable could cause misfire on both cylinders. That the codes set only while coasting (how do you know that, is it when the CEL lights?) is "interesting", and makes me wonder if the misfire is unrelated to ignition. Coasting is a time of high intake vacuum, so I'm thinking about possible A/F mixture issues, possibly related to vacuum leaks or EGR problems. What is the idle like, both in terms of speed and quality? Of course, small HG leaks can cause subtle problems...

According to http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72791 , 109,000.

You should search for info on the "WWP-99 Service Campaign". Here are some links that I believe you'll find interesting:http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=10791#post10791 http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/index.html http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/guestlog.html http://www.subaruproblems.com/ http://www.subaruproblems.com/owners-letter.pdf

There's nothing to fix, and the difference in wear may not even affect performance very much until the gaps are significantly changed -- the center electrode of the "worn" plugs are negatively polarized, which makes them easier to fire than the "unworn" ones with reversed polarity. There's a tendency towards manufacturers using "distributed ignition" now (no, not ignition using a distributor ; I'm referring to the systems where each cylinder has a coil right at the plug). That eliminates the polarity reversal of "wasted spark", and also means that there are no high-voltage (secondary) wires; only the low-voltage (primary) wiring goes to a coil at each plug. Besides the plug polarity issue, there are other advantages to these systems -- the elimination of the secondary wires means there's much less of an "antenna" to radiate interference, for example. Also, an ignition problem at one cylinder doesn't tend to cause problems at another, making engine-running better and troubleshooting easier.

True. The other way around; two turns of the crankshaft corresponds to one of a camshaft, but you knew that, Nipper. (Four strokes require two up/down piston cycles, hence two turns of the crank, but one turn of a camshaft completes the opening and closing of both the intake and exhaust valves.) Yep. The belt has a lot more teeth on it than the crank and cam sprockets do, but when the engine is turned enough the belt marks will align again with their indexes (that assumes, of course, that the belt is properly tensioned and not jumping).

It's not due to bad wires, but reversed polarity on two plugs because of the design of the wasted spark ignition; the wear pattern depends upon which electrode the spark "originates" from. See my post #9: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=580982#post580982

You're welcome. Actually, I'm a little outside of the city, in a semi-rural/becoming-suburban area. It is nice, especially in the summer. The winters can be a bit harsh (hence the Subaru ), and this particular one doesn't want to end; tonight the temperature is supposed to get down into the single digits again, just in time for spring .

http://legacycentral.org/ http://bbs.legacycentral.org/

Jon, most of us here enjoy helping others; you could make that easier by only starting new threads when the topic is significantly different. See my response to the above in: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72722

You're welcome. Unfortunately, "Knock Sensor Malfunction Bank 1" isn't a code, it's the "meaning" of one, and doesn't seem complete. Perhaps the code was "P0325", which is "Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction" ("Bank 1" isn't needed on engines with only a single bank). A circuit problem could be caused by a bad sensor, but also a wiring problem (corrosion in a connector, etc.), or even a problem with the ECU. In rereading your previous threads, I know that you had tried replacing the knock sensor, and wound up with a worse-running engine. It could be that the replacement was overly sensitive (was it an original factory part?), but it's also possible that it was properly sensing knock (or something causing similar vibrations), and was functioning correctly. A "P0136" code is pretty specific ("Rear oxygen sensor circuit malfunction") for that particular sensor, or a wiring connection to it. The confusion over front/rear O2 sensors being bad has to do with catalytic converter trouble codes, but you aren't reporting a catalyst-related code, so that isn't the issue here. However, with the mileage you've previously reported on your car, and some of the symptoms, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace both front and rear O2 sensors. (Poor connections should always be checked for when "circuit malfunction" codes come up, before replacing any parts.) Although the front sensor should be OEM, if cost is an issue you might be able to use an aftermarket unit for the rear one. Sometimes, it just makes sense to have someone with good Subaru experience and proper test equipment (an OBD-II scan tool being used "real time", for example) take a look at things. Unfortunately, we can only do just so much when diagnosing problems by "remote control", Jon. Best of luck in getting your Subaru repaired.

Some '99s do have speedo problems, sometimes intermittently. Knowing what set the CEL could be useful -- however, with a low battery and bad alternator, it's often difficult to get reliable data. If your s-i-l is set on getting the car, ask the dealer to replace the alternator and battery (assuming they're really bad); that will likely clear any stored trouble codes. Then take the car out again and see if the CEL lighting returns. If so, have the code(s) read to determine what the problem is. (On the other hand, if the dealer balks at getting the electrical system up to par, that should probably red-flag the purchase.)

Jon, the consensus here is that for the front O2 sensor, you should use an original factory (OEM) part; they seem to interface more reliably with the computer (ECU) and don't require splicing wires to connect. As previously suggested, providing the VIN of your car will help ensure that you receive the correct sensor -- in fact, most dealers (online and otherwise) won't fill your order without the VIN. You might want to reread these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64647 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65371 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66366 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67209 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67790 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68086

Even if you posted pictures, it would still be somewhat of a guess to figure the cost of repair. You probably should take the car to a dealer or independent front end shop and get an estimate; that will allow you to determine with more certainty whether to file an insurance claim or not.

Are you saying there are some (if so, where?), or asking for them? (Sorry, but lack of punctuation makes interpretation difficult. :-\ )

Of course not, it's only a few percent (sorry, I don't have the coefficient of thermal expansion for motor oil at hand ). Mtbe has never clarified what point on the dipstick is being called "2x".

The resistance measurements you're reporting are reasonable. There has to be a certain amount of resistance in the secondary ignition circuit. It's needed to minimize RFI (Radio Frequency Interference), which can effect operation of electronic equipment in the car (computers, radio, etc.); by limiting the rise time of the spark, it can also somewhat improve ignition by lengthening the firing time a bit. Although plug wires can last for many years and miles, those are a lot of miles for even the best wires, and you might consider replacing them. Nevertheless, if the resistance measures okay, and the insulation is in good condition (no visible sparks when inspected in the dark, and no misfiring, etc. if wetted down by road splash or lightly misted with water from a spray bottle), then they may still be usable.

Assuming the unit is actually kohms, yes. The knock sensor is a ceramic piezoelectric element; expect resistance to measure quite high. However, resistance testing generally won't tell you much about condition of the knock sensor -- they often crack when failed, so check visually for that, or just replace if you have strong reason to suspect it. If replacing, be sure to clean the mounting surface and tighten the bolt to the proper torque.