OB99W

Oooops, you're right, the MY99 Legacy (with manual, naturally) did still have the hill holder. (But I'm sure that '03 was when it appeared on the Forester, so I'm "only half a dunce", too .)

The MY98 Legacy last had it before it was reincarnated (in a supposedly improved version) on the Forester MY03.

While the Phase-I (pre-99) and Phase-II 4EATs share certain characteristics, they also have many differences. This article explains a lot of that: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAatPh2Win04.pdf

Are you sure about the '97s? There was a recall on some MY98s and MY99s, but the defect caused the pedal to go to the floor (NHTSA Campaign ID Number 99V040000).

Connector F45 does mate to B62. The "F" designation means the connector is attached to wiring in the front (engine compartment) side of the firewall; however, those wires can pass through the firewall and the connector itself can be on the passenger side. The "B" designation (bulkhead) refers to the firewall proximity; in the case of B62, that should be at the passenger/dash side. I tend to believe more in cause-and-effect than coincidence. While a bad/dislodged connection could be the cause of the problem you're having, blown fuses due to misconnection may be more likely. Could you be specific as to how you checked fuse #25? "Power is present across the fuse" leaves me with questions. Where exactly did you place the negative and positive meter leads when testing? By the way, the info I have indicates that fuse #25 is a 15A, not a 25A as someone previously stated.

As has been mentioned, those are connector identifiers. See the attachment to decipher the prefix letter.

Thanks, John. The trans on my own '99 OB has an 8-bolt bell housing, and spin-on filter; I know it's a phase-II 4EAT. But that's not what I'm referring to. I'd like to know about the 2.5L MY99 OB DOHC engines, and I'd appreciate an answer to the question I posed above to weddes05.

Yes, the MY99 Legacy OB came only with a DOHC 2.5. However... ...are you saying that the MY99 Legacy blocks were all the same? In other words, do you mean that all were 8-bolt, all were phase-I, etc.?

We could use a bit more info. What exactly does "doesn't start" mean? Does it crank? If it cranks, does it fire at all, but won't actually run? Is the problem occurring when the engine is hot, cold, or temp doesn't seem to matter?

This may (or may not ) help you decide: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70223 I'm sure most of us would prefer that a cat wasn't needed, but I'm not one of those who advocates adding to air pollution. In fact, I'm not particularly fond of noise pollution, either .

True, but misses the point. The question concerns identification of different versions of the 2.5, not the difference between them and the 2.2.

It does seem that that all the MY99 Legacies came with the DOHC heads. However, some apparently have the phase-I block, and some the phase-II. Here's info on telling the difference: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71284 My own appears to be a DOHC/phase-II hybrid based on that link, but I'm not tearing into the engine just to verify which block I have ). I wonder if there are any statistics concerning the HG issue on the hybrid engines.

Look at the Code Alarm info here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

Just because a " " wasn't used doesn't mean the anatomic comments weren't tongue-in-cheek.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/BrakeSystemWin01.pdf

I'm not sure if the diagrams linked to below are accurate for the '97, but they should get you close. The clutch switch should be located pretty much as you described. The starter interlock relay should have a red/yellow wire going to the starter solenoid, a green/yellow to the clutch switch and blue/red from the ignition switch: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg The clutch switch should have a green/yellow wire coming from the starter interlock relay: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location08.jpg Dropping the dash lower panel should make it easier to find things. Checking for 12V on the red/yellow solenoid wire with the ignition switch in START is one of the best ways to tell where to look next.

If by "cold" you mean immediately upon starting, then an oxygen sensor problem isn't a likely cause; the engine management runs "open loop" (using default settings and ignoring certain sensors) until things warm up a bit. Not that injectors are the likely culprit, but here's a bit of help in getting some of them to be a bit more cooperative: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ProperInsideEWFall05.pdf You might want to check whether there's any corrosion on the ignition wire terminals, both at the plugs and the coil pack; Subarus seem to be somewhat more touchy than average about that, especially when the engine is cold. Also, when you replaced the wires, did you use OEM? Many of the aftermarket ones aren't up to the job.

Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) is used primarily to neutralize battery acid (which is why none should be allowed to get into the battery cells); it isn't sufficient by itself to clean the terminals of corrosion. Usually a special wire brush is used for cleaning, or steel wool (preferably coarse) as Nipper suggested could be used (but not soap pads ). Some people use "sandpaper", but such abrasives are typically metal oxides themselves (and therefore semiconductors or insulators), making them a bad choice due to the residue they can leave behind.

If the headlights aren't dimming when the ignition switch is in the START position, then it's likely the battery and it's connections are fine, but that for some reason either the solenoid isn't getting power or the contacts in the starter aren't making. If you have a meter, check for 12V at the solenoid terminal (red/yellow wire) at the starter when the ignition switch is in START position. Based on the wiring diagram I have, if the 12V is there, then it's likely that either the solenoid is weak (there are two windings; possibly the pull-in one is failing) or the starter contacts are worn. If the 12V is absent at the solenoid terminal, then in addition to the clutch switch possibly being the problem, perhaps the starter interlock relay is the culprit (the clutch switch energizes that relay's coil by grounding one end of it), or even the ignition switch itself may be going bad.

Using petroleum-based products anywhere they can enter a brake hydraulic system or affect seals is a bad idea. You didn't mention the exact model, but if this '95 Impreza has ABS, don't compress the piston without loosening the bleeder screw; ABS doesn't like to have contaminated fluid pushed back into the hydraulic control unit, and if the piston is stuck there's a good chance the fluid isn't in great shape. It would be a good idea to flush the brake lines with fresh fluid, possibly even before the caliper is repaired.

In a perfect world, OBD-II trouble codes would be totally specific and accurate (seriously reducing the need for trained techs ); the ECU would always correctly determine whether the O2 sensors were operating properly, and then the code would indicate a sensor or catalyst efficiency problem that you could trust without doubt. Unfortunately, this world is far from perfect, and the trouble codes sometimes have to be interpreted. The ECU determines catalyst efficiency by looking at the downstream/rear O2 sensor output; it should be low and steady. When it's not, the ECU sets the P0420 code. Of course, a bad cat alone can cause the problem, but so can other things that sufficiently impact what is "seen" by the rear sensor. A P0420 code could be generated by a combination of marginal catalyst and sensor operation, and in some cases replacing either might cause the code to be cleared (for at least a while). There's little question that a good technician in a decently-equipped shop could likely determine which component is causing the code. The question becomes whether to gamble the cost of diagnosis, believe what P0420 signifies "by the book", or to try replacing a sensor. Reading material; decide the validity of any part of it for yourself: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/p0420.html

It's nice to have a competent independent mechanic. However, sometimes using the dealer makes sense. The 2000 had problems with O2 sensors, and perhaps you can have yours replaced at no charge. As has been already stated, a sufficiently problematic front sensor can cause the P0420 trouble code. Take a look at the link below, in particular the "WXW80" entry. Call SOA and/or a dealer, mention WXW80, and see what they have to say. http://www.carcomplaints.com/Subaru/Legacy/2000/tsbs.shtml

Skip, don't know what MY you were working on, but some later models have a similar problem: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/PadsInsideEW05.pdf

Okay, it has spark, but have you determined that the spark is sufficient or there all the time? Besides the crank and cam sensors already mentioned, perhaps the ignition itself is failing as it warms up; that could make sense given the wet plug(s). You could attach a timing light to get an idea of what's going on. Most timing lights will trigger even during cranking, and if it appears to be sporadic or the timing seems wrong that might provide a clue.

May be of interest: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf