OB99W

Just so this doesn't get really confusing, I'm going to stick my nose in and make a few assumptions that will hopefully clarify things... That appears to be referring to one Canadian dollar per liter. The gas mileage range quoted is in miles per US gallon. I just love the fact that the US never fully adopted international units.

That's one of the reasons I asked if the "wobble" character changed with gentle/firm braking. So, please get back (when you get a chance) on the questions you weren't able to answer until now, but... With 155k on it, lots of things in the front end (steering related or otherwise) could be loose, warped, or binding, and "wobble" is a broad term. However, a common problem causing "wobble" is belt separation in tires. Just because rotating the tires didn't resolve the problem doesn't mean they can't be the cause; it's possible that more than one is affected. Often such tires look fine from the outside. Obviously, there are many other possibilities. Another question: Does the wobble change when turning as opposed to driving straight ahead?

Some questions; may lead to answers : Within what range of speeds does the problem show? How many miles are on the car? Has it been in an accident? Is there any noticeable play in the steering wheel? You said it "doesn't pull to either side", but does the "wobble" require any steering correction? Does gentle (or firm) braking change the character of the wobble?

True, but not relevant. Relevant, but untrue, according to Subaru. The 1/4" maximum mismatch allowed is in circumference; I previously gave this link, but here it is once more: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/RearAxleBindingInfoF99.pdf As to the math; the 2/32" tread depth wear is a loss in radius. Circumference, however, is calculated by multiplying radius by "2 pi". Pi is a bit over 3 (3.14159...), so 2 pi is somewhat over 6. That means 2/32" in radius change is a circumferential change of over 12/32" (which reduces to 3/8"); that's 50% over the 1/4" (which is 2/8") allowed. See: http://mathforum.org/dr.math/faq/formulas/faq.circle.html He may or may not be, which is why I tried to provide enough info so that an informed decision could be made.

Good general info, but does it apply to the newer Subarus that are "drive by wire"?

You know what they say about opinions, so I'll try to provide as many "facts" as I can, some opinions, and let you decide for yourself. 1) Subaru says tires need to be matched within 1/4 inch of circumference. Based on what you said (2/32" of tread wear, which is the radius change), your tires would mismatch new ones by more than 12/32" (3/8") in circumference, which is 50% over the max. Info relating to possible consequence: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/RearAxleBindingInfoF99.pdf 2) Unless you manage to get exactly the same replacement tires as the ones now on the car, they may not be identical in circumference to the used ones (as when new). That could be good, if they're somewhat smaller than the originals were, or worse, if they're bigger. OPINION: Tire dealers used to "shave" tires in order to true/match them. You lost a little rubber, but gained better rolling. More recently, this service seems to be less available at tire shops, but race shops probably still do it. Having 1/32" or so of tread depth removed from the new tires to more-closely match sizes might be worth considering. (Assumes you determine the actual difference; inflate new and old tires to the same pressure and measure accurately before considering this.) 3) The AWD system requires a match in front-to-rear size. In actuality, a left/right mismatch, if nearly identical at both front and rear axles, doesn't affect the AWD. The size difference is "absorbed" by the front and rear differentials. That would mean placing the used tires on one side of the car (rather than front or rear) would be better for the AWD. OPINION: However, even if the new tires have identical tread pattern to the used ones, from a handling/safety standpoint I'd prefer to have left/right matched, with the better (newer) tires on the front. 4) OPINION: A few pounds more inflation pressure in the older tires than the new ones can help even out the effective radius, and should minimize the possible problem of size difference. 5) OPINION?: Front tires usually wear faster than rears, due to various factors including cornering and braking forces. However, they don't typically wear as evenly as the rears. 6) Previous discussion (one of many; includes some facts, lots of opinions): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58302

You may already have a hint as to a possible problem. The AWD system determines front/rear power distribution, not left/right. For the moment, I would ignore AWD and that the rears wheels aren't turning, and question why, of the two front ones, that only the right is moving. All things being equal, you'd normally expect the front differential to be turning both wheels at about equal speed. However, the differential seems to be favoring providing power to the right side, which may mean the left has excessive friction. You might see with the engine off and the car in neutral if you can feel a difference when manually trying to rotate each front wheel. If there's a frictional cause of only one wheel turning, sometimes it can be countered by gently applying the brakes, which may equalize the drag somewhat. Once more than just the one wheel is turning, you may be able to then release the brake and have more than one continue to spin. Of course, ABS might come into play. If you notice it being actuated during your diagnostic efforts, you might temporarily pull the fuse(s); the owner's manual indicates numbers 18 (ABS control) and 19 (ABS solenoid) as being relevant. Of course, replace the fuses before any road usage. By the way, be careful when powering the wheels while on jackstands. If only one wheel is turning, it's going to be rotating at a road-speed equivalent of double what the speedometer would have you believe. That "40 mph" is effectively 80 if only one wheel is turning, and that could be dangerous. Even at 40, any stones, etc., that might be lodged in the tread could be thrown and cause damage/injury.

Which is what I mentioned in the third sentence of my first response -- except you replied that the front parking lights were not on, so I'm confused. Anyone know if the "P" switch only lights the rears on a '90 Legacy (which I'd find very strange)? Or does grindy have another problem?

Great that you're back on the road, kukliani. Lawsonmh15 made a few suggestions; would you tell us which was the solution to your problem?

Okay; that's a strange one, or at least one I don't have an immediate solution for. Let me think about it a bit more, and maybe look at a wiring diagram.

If the timing belt was broken, the engine wouldn't be running. However, a worn timing belt and/or loose tensioner might result in a slip in position of a tooth or two, which in turn could result in a very poorly running engine. Agreed. Well, it does sound like a possible mixture problem, but whether it's excessive air (due to a vacuum leak) or something else (IACV, etc.) can't be easily determined with the info we have. I do tend to think about problems near any part that was recently worked on, so a vacuum hose being dislodged is certainly a reasonable thing to consider. Since the air filter was recently replaced, I'm wondering about the MAF sensor, which is in the area. Connector to it? Out of curiosity, what air filter (brand) was used? Does the engine sound and "feel" relatively normal if you give it gas and get the RPM to usual idle speed? (I'm wondering about the TPS.)

That depends what you mean by "tail lights". If just rear lights, it's probably the brake lights that are on, and likely that your brake light switch is either misadjusted or stuck. If we're talking parking lights, then the front ones could be on as well, and that might just be the "P" switch on top of the steering column (near the dash) got turned on.

The success stories with stop leak are apparently primarily with the 2.5l phase 2 engines (usually after MY '00, SOHC). Rather than developing internal HG leaks (combustion gases into coolant passages), the phase 2 seems to more commonly leak coolant to the outside. Since the pressure the stop leak has to deal with is only that of the cooling system (rather than the considerably higher cylinder pressures), it has a much better chance of working.

"Block Tester", "Combustion Leak Tester", or "Combustion Leak Detector". The test is done at the radiator neck. A Google Web search came up with the following two links, among others: http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm http://www.testtoolsinc.com/ You could do a search on Google's "Froogle" using the above terms and see what that turns up.

Welcome. See if this previous thread helps: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29276

No problem, now that I have my identity back . Yep, the cooperation is amazing, although we do have our little disagreements (umm, "discussions") now and then (I suppose just like real families). In addition, from what I've seen in reading other Subaru-related forums, there certainly seems to be a higher concentration of technical expertise here than on the other boards. Of course a real-time OBD-II scan can be very revealing, but even with engine management systems the basic tools can be useful. I still find things like a vacuum gauge and timing light helpful. 0-60 for a '96 2.2? Maybe 10-ish? My '99 2.5 is around mid 8's, but I don't make a habit of checking it, given current gas prices .

Me too; think I'll take a break for the rest of the day!

Anyone remember the group "Devo", and "We're all Devo"? Apparently, we've all become "nipper" here . --The guy formerly referred to as "OB99W"

So now the ECU sees the k.s., but it can't respond to engine vibrations. Whether that's a good thing is a discussion I won't get into . Even assuming a k.s is "tuned" to respond to particular frequencies, anything banging around causing vibrations that reach the engine could make the k.s. output something that the ECU sees as engine knock (detonation). Sometimes simple things such as exhaust system rattles can be a problem. A timing light can tell you a lot about how the k.s. responds; hook one up, try rapping near a mounted k.s. (not directly on it), and see how the ignition timing changes. When mounting a knock sensor, be sure to tighten the bolt within torque specs. They can give grief if loose, but can be permanently damaged if sufficiently overtorqued.

Nipper, hopefully nobody here was questioning your description of how a piezoelectric knock sensor produces its output. The original discussion was about the consequences of dismounting one. As I'm sure you know, various sensors in the car are monitored for function. Even those whose output is a varying AC signal can be checked on a basic level (connection, etc.) via DC means, if they have some level of conductivity. One type that comes to mind is an ABS wheel sensor. When the car is first started, before a wheel is moving (and therefore before any AC "signal" is developed), the ABS ECU checks the wheel sensor(s). It's done via monitoring an applied DC voltage; if it's out of a range that the ABS ECU expects, it indicates the sensor's resistance is incorrect, due to either a sensor or wiring fault. The knock sensor can be similarly (basically) verified by the main ECU. A particular knock sensor that Subaru uses has a spec resistance of 500-620 kohms, the middle of that range being 560 k. It seems the ECU won't flag a problem if a resistor of that value is substituted for the sensor. By the way, Nissan has used a k.s. with the exact same resistance spec, although I'm not sure it's identical in other respects.

There is a relay (so that the ignition switch doesn't have to handle all the current), and a circuit breaker (for protection). They affect the entire system, and neither would cause a problem at just one window. Typically power window motion is limited by the regulator; if you don't let go of a switch at the end of travel, eventually the excessive current causes the breaker to snap open. It's usually a thermal (bimetallic) kind, and will reset by itself after a while. Check your Private Messages.

The wiring diagrams I've looked at all seem to indicate otherwise. The wire to the sensor is 2-conductor (shield plus center conductor), which might lead one to believe that a ground isn't needed (that it's seemingly provided via the shield). However, the shield is "floating" (not connected) at the sensor end, and a ground connection is made by the mounting of the sensor itself. Yes, the knock sensor is a piezoelectric device. Piezoelectric mineral-crystal or ceramic elements have extremely high resistance, and by themselves typically measure open-circuit by ohmmeter. That's one reason (there are others) manufacturers sometimes incorporate a high-value resistor in parallel with the piezo element; it allows a small current to flow (in the case of a 560,000 ohm resistance, and even assuming full automotive battery charging voltage is applied, only about 25 microamps), making possible remote sensing of wire breaks and/or other disconnects. The high resistance of the paralleling resistor won't swamp out the relatively low voltage generated by the piezo element. The ECU is probably looking for some "pull down" by a connected knock sensor, which the resistance (although high) can provide. If it doesn't see that, it "assumes" the sensor/connections are bad. Actually, what it has is high resistance. Agreed on . Agreed, knock and ping aren't the same.

That's why I brought up the issue of the correctness of the diagram, since from a safety standpoint not having the switch didn't make sense. However, I stand by the fact (at least on the '99) that the lockout is done by breaking the ground connection to the switches, not the hot lead. Hot power does go directly to the three "sub" switches, in addition to the main switch at the driver's location, on both the '99 and '00.

Depends on where; 100+ degrees F with 50-60% humidity isn't uncommon in some parts. Sure, low refrigerant can cause the cycling, but it's worth looking at the condenser airflow since that's a low-tech/low-cost problem to deal with.

Hmmm, those temperature/humidity levels can be stressful for both you and the car. The A/C relay (the one that controls the compressor clutch) is directly controlled by the ECU (engine computer). I'm not sure what all the parameters are for shutting down the A/C are, but you should probably do everything you can to ensure that the engine is as cool as possible. As Setright mentioned, what sort of looks like the engine radiator (it's actually the A/C condenser) is situated in front of the actual radiator; if it's obstructed in any way, it affects both the engine cooling and A/C operation. It would also be good to verify that both radiator fans are coming on when the A/C is operating.