OB99W

It's not good that the noise/vibration was there before; it's better that by putting in the fuse (going to Front Wheel Drive) the problem is less pronounced. Definitely leave the fuse in place until you get matching tires, and consider driving the car as little as possible until then. How many miles have you put on since the tire size mismatch? If anything substantial, there may already be significant damage. Once you have matched tires and remove the FWD fuse, you'll be able to get a better idea. Sometimes a transmission fluid change (full flush) will help if things didn't get too bad.

I hate to sound like Donald Rumsfeld , but you should probably consider the "unknown unknowns", too. If you get serious about plunking down $12k, you might consider pulling a CARFAX report. It can either give you more confidence about the purchase, or be a (relatively) cheap warning or bargaining tool.

If the decimal place (.6) is what made you think things were very critical, you can probably relax. I suspect that what seems to be precision in the torque spec (by giving the decimal) is probably just a result of converting an average for the torque that was originally in metric units such as N-m (Newton-meters) to English units and then not rounding sufficiently. Anyone here have a torque wrench that will accurately read 16.6 ft-lbs (and use it on their car)?

Any load on the electrical system makes the alternator do "work". The more work it has to do, the harder the alternator pulley is to turn. Slippage due to a problem with the crank pulley (as has already been suggested) or other drive problem is certainly possible. With the engine running, turning on things that draw a lot of current (headlights on high-beam, rear defrosters, etc.) will cause the drive to more-obviously slip if that's the problem; you'll either see the belt or pulley slow down, or hear squealing. If that happens, it usually indicates that the alternator is trying to function, but the drive slippage is limiting what it can do.

Nipper, I could be mistaken, but I think the question was about retightening the hardware after making an adjustment, not tensioning the belt.

Not as critical as head bolts . I'd look at it this way: If you significantly overtightened it, the damage is already done. If you undertightened it, it might eventually loosen and you can make it a bit tighter next time. Either way, I'd leave it alone; if you have much experience tightening hardware, you probably came "close enough". Just keep tabs on it for a while, and check if you hear any new strange noises. You should probably eventually get a torque wrench with sufficient range if you're going to do your own servicing.

I know that you asked about "code readers", but are you aware of the difference between a code reader and a "scan tool"? "Code readers" do just what you'd expect from the name; inexpensive ones allow retrieval of stored trouble codes, erasing of codes, and resetting (turning off) the MIL. That can be useful, but not nearly as much so as a "scan tool". A decent scan tool will do what a code reader will, and let you view pending codes, view "freeze frame" data, and display sensor operation in real time. Those additional things can make diagnosis a lot easier than just having a static code to interpret. The cost of a scan tool is typically about two to three times that of a code reader, but the first time you avoid a misdiagnosis and don't change parts unnecessarily you might save the difference in price.

From NHTSA: Technical Service Bulletins Summary Make: SUBARU Model: OUTBACK Year: 2000 Type: PASSENGER CAR Service Bulletin Number: WXW80 NHTSA Item Number: 618424 Summary Description: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE FRONT OXYGEN AIR / FUEL (A/F) SENSOR ELEMENT CRACKING. *TT From EPA (see top of page 6): http://www.epa.gov/OMS/cert/recall/420b02003.pdf

I don't think anyone here can say for certain whether or not changing back to an OEM unit will improve the gas mileage you're getting. Having said that... The front O2 sensor is the one that the ECU uses for engine management, ultimately determining air/fuel ratio; an original type is most likely to interface with the ECU correctly, and probably at least not make fuel mileage worse than it was. (The rear sensor, since it's used for determining cat efficiency, shouldn't affect mileage; if not OEM, the worst that a slight mismatch might do is cause a P0420 code a little sooner or later than with an OEM unit.) I realize that the above may not have helped in making a decision, but it's typically why OEM is suggested for the front sensor but not necessarily for the rear.

As johnceggleston said, P0420 is a code related to the catalytic converter; that code doesn't indicate ignition (misfire) problems at cylinder #1 (although a misfire problem can damage the catalyst). Your Subaru has two oxygen (O2) sensors, one before and one after the cat; the engine computer (ECU) uses the output of the first primarily to adjust air/fuel ratio, and the second in determining cat efficiency. Once the engine is sufficiently warm (running "closed loop"), the ECU expects to see the O2 sensor preceding the cat to have a varying output voltage, but the second one to remain fairly steady if the catalyst is functioning correctly. If the ECU doesn't "like" the O2 sensor output, it can set the P0420 code. So, there are several possible causes of the P0420 code. A simple one is a leak in the exhaust system up to and including the cat. Sometimes, even a "bad" tank of gas can cause the code to be set. A failure of either O2 sensor, or even a poor connection to one, can certainly cause P0420. Of course, the catalytic converter may itself be damaged. The catalyst can become "poisoned" from certain contaminants; coolant from a head gasket leak (internal) or excessive engine oil burning are possibilities. The catalyst can be destroyed (even melted) if enough raw fuel (due to cylinder misfire) reaches it. You didn't say if the exhaust system is still OEM; if not, certain changes can also cause the P0420 code. Considering the mileage on the car (certainly over 80K), a scan to look at the O2 sensor output in real time (not just reading set codes) would probably be justified to help determine whether your problem is a sensor or the cat itself. (If the car had lower mileage, you might have qualified under the emissions warranty, but it seems you're beyond the limitation.) If the code returns, I'd check for exhaust leaks first, and then do a real-time scan. Should you decide to chance replacing O2 sensors without further diagnosis, be sure that at least the one before the cat is an OEM unit.

Okay, I'm now officially confused :-\ . Aren't "Jamie" and "subarugenuineparts.com" effectively one and the same? See post earlier in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=495533

Apparently not all model years have the connector fully pinned. I believe pins 1 and 2 are for air bag diagnosis, 3 and 6 for ABS. My '99 has only those pins. However, according to the info I have, a '95-98 Legacy uses pin 5 for auto trans and the trouble codes are flashed via the AT oil temp lamp. The info also says that those AT codes can be cleared by removing fuse #14 for at least one minute.

Rodents apparently are attracted to plastic wire and pipe insulation; I've experienced that problem myself a few times. Hopefully the problem is resolved. If not, the codes seem to indicate the rear left ABS sensor (and wiring, connectors, etc) would be a place to concentrate on.

Ferret kindly provided 2 PDF files which you might want to download. See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=496084

Does the ABS lamp come on when the car is first started (correct operation, if it's for just a few seconds) and then remain on? Or does it come on initially, go off, and then come back on when the car is driven? You may be able to read any trouble codes yourself; see one of my first posts on USMB: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=388628 If you retrieve codes, someone here can probably tell you what they mean.

I've changed a front wheel speed sensor on my own '99 OB. If you're talking about a front one, the '96 is the same as the '99 (I don't know if the rear ones are). It's held to the steering knuckle with one bolt, and 2 more mount the bracket that holds the cable. Other than that, there's a connector. The bolt that holds the sensor can be hard to remove, especially if the car saw winter use in an area that uses road salt, due to rust. Lots of PB Blaster or something similar applied over several days (I'm not kidding) before trying to remove the hardware might help. Unfortunately, the head of the bolt on mine snapped off (the rust was severe), and I had to drill out what was left and carefully remove the remnants. Fortunately, the threads in the knuckle were still in pretty good shape, and I was able to get a replacement bolt, which I applied anti-sieze compound to before mounting the new sensor.

For those interested in learning more, see: http://www.scangauge.com/ Among other things, you can download the manual as a PDF from the site. Nipper, I don't get one thing; you sacrificed your wallet for us, but you're installing it in your car? :-\

Since we both said it (but I beat Nipper ), hopefully the point has been made.

It would take considerable time to explain accelerator pumps, choke unloaders, etc. and the differences between carburetion and fuel injection. Let's just say that pumping the pedal of a fuel-injected engine doesn't do what it used to with carbs, although many FI systems still have an unloader feature when the pedal is held fully depressed to help clear a flooded engine. I can understand, however, that you can sense how the engine is responding to a starting attempt, including changing sounds and vibration or the lack thereof. Perhaps more on-target, your mechanic should probably concentrate on why there is no spark, since without it the delivery of fuel now is really moot. It's likely that resolving the spark problem will also take care of the fuel. The engine's computer (referred to as an ECU or ECM) has to have proper input to provide correct output. As has already been suggested several times, one of the first things to look at is the timing belt; usually you'll notice a difference in the way the engine sounds while cranking if the belt is damaged/broken (which is why you've been asked about that), but maybe it's not sufficiently obvious. A broken belt is easy to spot, one with missing teeth slightly harder; in a situation where the belt has skipped a few teeth (rarer) the mechanic has to pay attention to detail. As has also already been suggested, the output from the crankshaft sensor should be checked. If the ECM doesn't get that signal, the engine can't start. Your mechanic may indeed be competent, but Nipper's comment shouldn't be ignored; basic diagnosis needs to be done, and if your guy can't (for whatever reason), it's probably time to move on.

How, exactly can you tell that by the pedal? I was wondering about the "gas flow" issue back at post #2 of this thread. See my third question: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=493761 Sad4subaru, "pumping the gas" doesn't do much on a car that doesn't have a carburetor with an accelerator pump.

Nipper's suspicion concerning the radiator seems a reasonable concern. There are a few possibilities given your description, and the radiator not being able to dissipate heat sufficiently is certainly one. Normally, at highway speeds air moving past the radiator due to vehicle movement keeps things under control. When it's running, the A/C compressor puts an additional load on the engine; its condenser, which is situated in front of the radiator, "preheats" the air that cools the radiator, making the situation worse. One simple thing I'd suggest checking is that airflow past the A/C condenser (and therefore the radiator) isn't somewhat restricted by an accumulation of insects or some debris. You should verify that both fans are running properly, not just by sound. Make sure that the coolant tank level is staying between the marks. The amount of condensation from the evaporator typically has more to do with air humidity level than anything else. However, I'm curious about something: When was the A/C refrigerant level last checked? Any added then?

No sweat. Good luck with the repair(s).

Used or original owner, if properly done, it should be on record. In theory, the VIN is all that's needed to check.

Glad to help. Perhaps other folks aren't aware of the large number of products available. Here's a link to a PDF from 3M: http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs666I1BCOrrrrQ ( No, I don't work for 3M, Bondo, etc. or own stock in their companies . )

You're welcome. The Bondo epoxy is fine, but might not be practical for large repairs. Here's some info on fixing bigger bumper areas:http://www.autobodysupply.net/auto-paint-articles/how-to-repair-plastic-bumpers-tpo.htm Here's some of the 3M stuff: http://www.autobodysupply.net/store/defaultin.asp?CategoryID=10&usg=F6D4AC88-5DA1-4CC0-BD41-459D33CAC09D